haireez
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Post by haireez on Dec 11, 2016 1:51:02 GMT -5
By the way, I also did the fan mode that I bought from tschaeikaei. I think the fan mode is great as there are 6 sensors to measure the temperature at all 3 neckboards , HDM, FGM & back heatsink. The fans will start when it reached certain temperature.  |
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haireez
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Posts: 68
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Post by haireez on Dec 11, 2016 1:52:53 GMT -5
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Post by stridsvognen on Dec 11, 2016 9:26:57 GMT -5
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Post by stridsvognen on Dec 11, 2016 9:39:39 GMT -5
Before I got MP VIM & MP VNB, I was using VNB 50-2038-01P on blue tube, VNB 2-270340-01B on green & red tubes. I have another VNB 81771-02H but it's not compatible with other VNB. So no choice but to use modified 2038 for my lug tubes. Once I received MP match set, I change the VNB first but can't tell the difference but the light output is not affected. After that, I changed the VIM and was shocked to see the light output decreased significantly that I need to push the contrast, brightness, G2 and Drive setting. Initially I thought that the MP VIM is a faulty set. But now after adjusting Moome V3 input card for contrast setting, no longer 0.7v setting, and after eye calibration again, I found the picture to be very clean, more detail, more natural color etc... And very happy with the unit now. I will not change back to MP VNB at this moment. Unfortunately, I don't know how to measure the light output right now even though I have eye one colorimeter that I bought many years back. If you could guide me, I can try to measure. If you dont have any controle over your calibration measurements like simple gamma light, and tracking, its kind of impossible to evaluate boards in my opinion, as changes on those parameters change how you experience the picture a lot. You change neckboards, you adjust on the moome and give all credit to the vim.. A bit oposit what MP trows out there, i think each board has to hold its own, and if i do a set of neckboards they have to work with a standard vim.. and so on all around. I do reduce the gain on my neckboards, wich do i have to run a higher contrast setting, so normaly it will show slight sign of blooming at 100 contrast. I think the videochain behaves better adding gain to the multiplier on the vim than having it on the neckboards.. If you want to find out whats do what, you should change 1 board at a time calibrate and then get a general impression of the image, and go true the testpatterns. What level setting do you use on your Moome card..? That will change the output level quite a lot. |
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Post by barclay66 on Dec 12, 2016 5:19:15 GMT -5
Guys, Yesterday I changed MP VNB with a different VNB (old type on blue & VDC VNB on green & red). Since the picture is still dim, I decided to adjust the contrast on Moore V3 HDMI card by turning counterclockwise. By doing this, I'm able to get the brightness level and I'm quite glad now. The only worry I have is that if I change back another VIM, the setting on Moome card is all wrong and I'm not sure how to adjust it back to the correct setting of 0.7v. Glad You got it working! Don't worry too much about the 0.7V. Did You record the number of turns You made? Just turn the same amount back. It should bring You close enough to the original value. For a precise measurement, an oscilloscope will be needed... Regards, barclay66 |
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haireez
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Post by haireez on Dec 12, 2016 11:45:42 GMT -5
I did not count unfortunately. I stopped turning counterclockwise when I see the picture is bright enough to my liking.
Even though I did not do calibration with any colorimeter, I still find the picture to be much better with MP VIM board. I also agree with stridsvognen earlier comments.
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Post by stridsvognen on Dec 12, 2016 14:07:50 GMT -5
What level setting are you running the Moome card, 16-235 or 0-255 A or B on the remote.
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haireez
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Post by haireez on Dec 13, 2016 9:52:46 GMT -5
It's 0-255 setting 'B' with gamma at 100. Sometimes I prefer 'C' setting.
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Post by stridsvognen on Dec 13, 2016 17:35:06 GMT -5
So you use the 0-255 where you clip black and white perfect, and then you use the black boost C to elevate black and add WTW, and then set the gamma to 100 to get the low level back down, and still displaying WTW on the 0-255 setting..
Wich lower your output on a 100% IRE video output, so you need more gain in the marquee, but instead compensating by adjusting the contrast pot.. Think you will get pretty much the same result running 16-235, and then set gamma to 100, and turn up the contrast pot to compensate
If you like to try the simple simple solution, try run 0-255 dont touch the black boost (C) and put the gamma at 0, and run the contrast pot at original setting and see if that do the trick.
Now i wonder what your feeding the moome card.. can you add a picture of the status LED on the moome while the projector is running.?
And are you using a Blu Ray player or a PC solution.?
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haireez
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Post by haireez on Dec 14, 2016 6:42:00 GMT -5
Hi, I'm on holiday now in Vietnam and will be back in Singapore late Sunday. I will take picture when I'm back.
Right now, I'm using Popcorn hour A400 and feed to my OPPO 103, to my DVDO iscan mini, to my HD Fury4 and finally to Moome input card.
Watching Blu-ray disk from my OPPO 103 too.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Dec 14, 2016 7:47:30 GMT -5
Why have you got the HD Fury 4 in there?
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haireez
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Posts: 68
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Post by haireez on Dec 14, 2016 9:22:05 GMT -5
Before I got the lug tubes 6mths ago, I was using LCP and P43 green to eliminate ghosting during 3D using HD Fury4. I do enjoyed watching 3D on CRT. The only setback using HD Fury4 is that you can see banding (20% top & bottom of the screen) but if you're watching on wide-screen, the banding is very minimal.
Secondly, the HD Fury 4 will triple convert 24hz to 72hz perfectly and the motion is very smooth.
Since lug tubes are not suitable for 3D, I might need to consider removing HD Fury 4 from the chain and see whether the picture will be better with or without HD Fury4.
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Post by stridsvognen on Dec 14, 2016 10:40:06 GMT -5
I was wondering more what the DVDO mini was for.. The Hdfury do great frame tripling, for HDMI in HDMI out, only problem is the heavy raster ringing, and as i see it the popcorn hour is a HDD controler, or whats that one douing.?
Anyway its quite a complex videochain, maybe you can share what color space, and level settings true that long digital videochain?
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Post by gjaky on Dec 14, 2016 14:02:12 GMT -5
Before I got the lug tubes 6mths ago, I was using LCP and P43 green to eliminate ghosting during 3D using HD Fury4. I do enjoyed watching 3D on CRT. The only setback using HD Fury4 is that you can see banding (20% top & bottom of the screen) but if you're watching on wide-screen, the banding is very minimal. Secondly, the HD Fury 4 will triple convert 24hz to 72hz perfectly and the motion is very smooth. Since lug tubes are not suitable for 3D, I might need to consider removing HD Fury 4 from the chain and see whether the picture will be better with or without HD Fury4. I would challange the statement that LUG is not compatible with 3D. I used 3D with standard phosphor tubes with zero ghosting. |
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haireez
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Post by haireez on Dec 15, 2016 1:28:17 GMT -5
WOW! HOW DID YOU MANAGED TO GET 3D WITHOUT GHOSTING?
Can you share with me your setup? With HD Fury4 or Radiance?
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