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Post by tibimakai on Oct 8, 2018 10:05:54 GMT -5
I have picked up this receiver, which supposed to be good, for $30. When I tested it, it seemed like everything worked, I even did a firmware update, tested Bluetooth with my phone, played Tunein.
I have tried Youtube from my TV I had image and sound. I thought, that everything is good.
But when I started testing the HDMI side, no matter what I did I could not get any signal from any of the HDMI inputs. Output works(did not try the Sub yet).
Somebody mentioned, to test for short at the HDMI SII IC, pin #18. There is no short.
With CEC turned on, the receiver never turns on, only off, with the TV.
Any help would be appreciated.
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Post by mastertech on Oct 8, 2018 20:38:59 GMT -5
Does it in any way acknowledge any HDMI input connection?
Does it have sound on any HDMI in?
Did you try HDMI passthrough to your TV?
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Post by tibimakai on Oct 8, 2018 21:10:06 GMT -5
None of the inputs work. The receiver does not recognize, that anything is plugged in. The output shows up, as Onkyo TX-NR646 on my Samsung TV.
I did not try passthrough. I don't even know how to do that. I will have to look into it.
Mastertech, when you will be gone? When you will be back?
In a few days, the Hdmi IC will arrive.
I have a feeling, that I have protection kicking in and that is why, It turns off in a few seconds. I have read in another thread, that I should have low voltage ~ .400V? on pins #129 and 130 at Q7009?
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Post by tibimakai on Oct 8, 2018 22:27:34 GMT -5
I have never used passthrough, it is not working either. No video and no audio. Only a black screen and the message No input. I have tried all 7 HDMI inputs.
Where I have tested, I have a good RZ610 and on that one, the passthrough works great.
The receiver does not recognize, that there is an input plugged in.
Now, with the CEC on, it turns on and off OK.
Sub output is working as well.
It is possible, that both HDMI ICs are bad?
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Post by tibimakai on Oct 14, 2018 23:43:44 GMT -5
I have measured the voltage, at pins #36 and #18 and all I had is 0.005V, respectively 293 Ohms. After I have removed the IC, the resistance jumped up to Kohms.
Tomorrow, I will measure the voltage at that point. I have started soldering back the IC, on the RZ800 and did not have more time.
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Post by tjmotter on Oct 16, 2018 7:05:49 GMT -5
I have measured the voltage, at pins #36 and #18 and all I had is 0.005V, respectively 293 Ohms. After I have removed the IC, the resistance jumped up to Kohms. Tomorrow, I will measure the voltage at that point. I have started soldering back the IC, on the RZ800 and did not have more time. I have been researching the HDMI diag codes you posted and can't find a reference for them. I had expected to see something like: xxxx-->1080p/60. In my experience (I have seen at least 6 of these), the resistance on that SII HDMI Receiver chip is too low and it brings the 1.3voltage rail down (as you are seeing). A brand new chip will show a resistance of over 600 ohms. Also, I found that if I measured the resistance between the 1.3V rail and ground while applying a little heat (less than 90 degrees with my heat wand), the resistance QUICKLY drops to zero on a bad part. I suspect that is what you are seeing. Note that this chip has a ground lug on the bottom. The best way I have found to replace the chip is to put a little flux on the bottom of the chip first and then place it on board. I have the best results when there is just enough solder on the board to hold one side of the chip up about 1mm. I then carefully align the chip, tack the opposite side in place by placing some solder on the pins and then heat the chip up again with my heat wand. It takes a little under a minute (at 435 degrees) but the solder will melt and you can watch the "high side" of the chip settle down onto its pads. Once this happens, I remove the heat, let the board cool and then solder the rest of the pins down. This approach assures me that I have successfully rebuilt the ground connection on the bottom.
HTH Todd
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Post by tjmotter on Oct 16, 2018 7:15:05 GMT -5
None of the inputs work. The receiver does not recognize, that anything is plugged in. The output shows up, as Onkyo TX-NR646 on my Samsung TV. I did not try passthrough. I don't even know how to do that. I will have to look into it. Mastertech, when you will be gone? When you will be back? In a few days, the Hdmi IC will arrive. I have a feeling, that I have protection kicking in and that is why, It turns off in a few seconds. I have read in another thread, that I should have low voltage ~ .400V? on pins #129 and 130 at Q7009? I find it a little difficult to get my probe onto those pins but these signals flow to Q7009 through the vertical board on the side of the unit. I find it MUCH easier to identify which pins carry the vProtect and iProtect signals and then probe them at this connection. In my experience, 0.4 - 0.5 is normal.
It could be either protect circuit but in my experience, vProtect is the most common to trip. Since the vProtect circuit runs in parallel across all channels, it can ge a little difficult to figure out which channel is tripping the protect function. The way I do this is to check the idling voltage on each channel. You should see a reading of between 4-6mV after the circuit has warmed up for 5 minutes. You can adjust a range of about 10mV but a value over 100mV will cause the vProtect circuit to trip so that will allow you to identify which channel is bad.
HTH Todd
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Post by tibimakai on Oct 16, 2018 10:53:36 GMT -5
Sounds good, I will try the idle current. So, this is not the 646, it is the RZ800. These are the test leads, that I'm using: probemaster.com/spring-loaded-micro-tip-test-leads-only/They are great, soft, needle like tip, but after using them for quite a while, I would prefer them, without the spring loading feature. I have another question regarding this 646, if I have removed the shorted SII IC, the rest of the HDMI inputs shouldn't work now? Or they need to communicate between each other(the two ICs). |
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Post by tibimakai on Oct 16, 2018 23:43:58 GMT -5
I have measured pin #36 and I have 1.3V, yeahh.
It will take a while, until I will get back to this, the IC is not even shipped.
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Post by tjmotter on Oct 17, 2018 13:22:11 GMT -5
Sounds good, I will try the idle current. So, this is not the 646, it is the RZ800. These are the test leads, that I'm using: probemaster.com/spring-loaded-micro-tip-test-leads-only/They are great, soft, needle like tip, but after using them for quite a while, I would prefer them, without the spring loading feature. I have another question regarding this 646, if I have removed the shorted SII IC, the rest of the HDMI inputs shouldn't work now? Or they need to communicate between each other(the two ICs). The chips talk to each other so the other inputs will likely still not work. On some designs, Onkyo uses several HDMI receiver chips. In this case, it "may" work but frankly, I have never tried it. |
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Post by tjmotter on Oct 17, 2018 15:14:15 GMT -5
I have measured pin #36 and I have 1.3V, yeahh. It will take a while, until I will get back to this, the IC is not even shipped. One thing to be cautious of when you go to reinstall this IC is the ground lug. This is the primary source of ground for this chip and you must get a good bond. I noted that I put a little flux on the pad of the chip, set it is place and tack one side down but it is very important that there is enough solder left on the board so that the opposite side sits about 1mm high. When you removed the old chip it would have taken some of the solder with it so it is possible that there isn't enough left. This is why I look for one side to sit a little high because it means that I still have enough solder on the board. If you have it, you can place a very small amount of solder paste on the ground so that it fills in for any that was removed on the original chip but if not, you may have to add a tiny bit of solder onto that pad on the motherboard until you can get one side to sit 1mm high. Then, as I mentioned, you simply heat the chip up until the solder melts and the raised pins drop down onto their pads. Don't add too much solder paste or solder or you will find that all of the pins will float above their pads.
HTH
Todd
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Post by tibimakai on Oct 17, 2018 17:28:00 GMT -5
I have done it pretty much the same way. But first, of course I had a hard time aligning the pins, since the chip it was in the air.
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Post by tibimakai on Nov 17, 2018 21:44:35 GMT -5
OK, I have got SII in and I have soldered it in. First time, it did not work. The IC did not lower enough.
Second time, it worked. I have actually pushed down on it, while I was heating it up.
Thank you very much, for helping out, with my issue.
I appreciate it a lot.
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