srt
Junior Member
Posts: 90
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Post by srt on Jul 2, 2019 12:26:48 GMT -5
Hi anyone know about TL86611 plus usb program mer I found this in aliexpress. can I use this for onkyo tx nr616 nand chip programming the chip is supported list
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Post by consolez on Aug 6, 2019 5:10:14 GMT -5
Hi all, great topic!
My TX-NR646 has an issue while switching on/off led lights in my house. The HDMI signaal goes on/off when doing this. It seems somekind of interference. See:
Unfortunately the receiver keeps switching to the black screen randomly from itself now. The device seems to go in mute modus. Any idea what the problem may be? And how to solve this?
Onkyo cannot help me.
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Post by tjmotter on Aug 15, 2019 21:10:31 GMT -5
There is an IR Receiver on the front panel behind the black plexiglass. I would start by covering the front of the NR646 with a piece of cardboard and then trying the lights again to determine if the IR Receiver is being triggered by the LED's.
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Post by tjmotter on Aug 24, 2019 14:19:40 GMT -5
hi guys, is there a posibility that OMAP-L137 from TI to be the perfect replacement for D830K013BZKB4 from onkyo or d810 from pioneer receivers? they are in the same package (ZKB) with 256 pin. the power pins are the same. in the schematics datasheet of tx-nr509, you can view the pin arangement of this chip on the pcb. this must be similar with other boards in other models. we do not have to confuse D830K013BZKB4 with da830 from TI, da830 is not bga and have just 64 pins... www.ti.com/product/OMAP-L137/toolssoftware#nohm.eu/schematics/Onkyo/TX-NR509%20%20Service%20Manual.pdf i think the only diferences are pins f3 and h4 which apear as not conected in TI datasheet, but conected to ground in tx-nr509 service manual. Just to close the loop on this, I bought one of these chips and no, it does not work. It is electrically compatible so it doesnt' blow anything and when I connected it onto a working board it finds the memory and firmware. It actually starts to boot up but it quickly starts throwing errors and as soon as the Onkyo program starts to load, it crashes. |
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Post by you2314 on Sept 8, 2019 17:48:47 GMT -5
where did you guys find the reball stencil?
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Post by trytofix on Sept 12, 2019 14:38:50 GMT -5
hi guys, is there a posibility that OMAP-L137 from TI to be the perfect replacement for D830K013BZKB4 from onkyo or d810 from pioneer receivers? they are in the same package (ZKB) with 256 pin. the power pins are the same. in the schematics datasheet of tx-nr509, you can view the pin arangement of this chip on the pcb. this must be similar with other boards in other models. we do not have to confuse D830K013BZKB4 with da830 from TI, da830 is not bga and have just 64 pins... www.ti.com/product/OMAP-L137/toolssoftware#nohm.eu/schematics/Onkyo/TX-NR509%20%20Service%20Manual.pdf i think the only diferences are pins f3 and h4 which apear as not conected in TI datasheet, but conected to ground in tx-nr509 service manual. Just to close the loop on this, I bought one of these chips and no, it does not work. It is electrically compatible so it doesnt' blow anything and when I connected it onto a working board it finds the memory and firmware. It actually starts to boot up but it quickly starts throwing errors and as soon as the Onkyo program starts to load, it crashes. |
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Post by tjmotter on Sept 12, 2019 15:20:45 GMT -5
where did you guys find the reball stencil? eBay and Alibaba offer options. I couldn't find an exact match so what I did was to buy a larger stencil for a 0.60mm (0.9mm pitch) solder ball and then use masking tape to cover the holes that I don't want to fill.
HTH Todd
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Post by trytofix on Sept 12, 2019 15:33:54 GMT -5
Hi Todd,
I have been following up on your posts on this forum. I am a new member and this is ,my first post. I happen to stumble upon one of your posts (everything you never wanted to know about onkyo firmware).specifically under HOW ONKYO UPDATES WORK. Where you mentioned the NR646, you were talking about the user being able to access usb and network but not having completed the firmware update.
I have an onkyo NR626 which I recently purchased in an attempt to maybe fix my NR515 which had a problem with sound, I tried to reflow it and it didn’t work so i believe the dsp chip is fried which was why I bought the NR626,(I didn’t get the history from the seller) but upon running the NR626 I discovered that I can access network, bt, wifi ,usb and the main menu functioning is good – it is exciting, but I have no sound. I only get the first relay click once I turn it on and there is no heat on the dsp chip and the hdmi board does not even get warm at all. Going back to how onkyo updates work, I was wondering does the NR626 have the same design as the NR646 in regard to dsp1 and dsp 2 not being fully updated.
So what do you think I should do todd?
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Post by tjmotter on Sept 13, 2019 7:07:24 GMT -5
Hi Todd, I have been following up on your posts on this forum. I am a new member and this is ,my first post. I happen to stumble upon one of your posts (everything you never wanted to know about onkyo firmware).specifically under HOW ONKYO UPDATES WORK. Where you mentioned the NR646, you were talking about the user being able to access usb and network but not having completed the firmware update. I have an onkyo NR626 which I recently purchased in an attempt to maybe fix my NR515 which had a problem with sound, I tried to reflow it and it didn’t work so i believe the dsp chip is fried which was why I bought the NR626,(I didn’t get the history from the seller) but upon running the NR626 I discovered that I can access network, bt, wifi ,usb and the main menu functioning is good – it is exciting, but I have no sound. I only get the first relay click once I turn it on and there is no heat on the dsp chip and the hdmi board does not even get warm at all. Going back to how onkyo updates work, I was wondering does the NR626 have the same design as the NR646 in regard to dsp1 and dsp 2 not being fully updated. So what do you think I should do todd? IIRC, the NR626 only has 1 DSP so I doubt that this is the issue but I will look through my old boards to see if I have one I can use to confirm this. To get started you really need to check the firmware revisions of the unit to make sure everything is booting. You can do this by:
1) press and hold the DISPLAY" button - while holding "DISPLAY", press the "ON/STANDBY" button 2) within 3 seconds, press the "TONE +" key
- This will bring up the MAIN CPU firmware level - Press the "TONE +" key again to see the DSP firmware level - Keep pressing this button to scroll through all of the firmware
If you see anything with a series of question marks that would indicate what has failed. Report what you find back to the forum and I will try to help you diagnose it.
thx Todd
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Post by tjmotter on Sept 13, 2019 10:56:28 GMT -5
Hi Todd, I have been following up on your posts on this forum. I am a new member and this is ,my first post. I happen to stumble upon one of your posts (everything you never wanted to know about onkyo firmware).specifically under HOW ONKYO UPDATES WORK. Where you mentioned the NR646, you were talking about the user being able to access usb and network but not having completed the firmware update. I have an onkyo NR626 which I recently purchased in an attempt to maybe fix my NR515 which had a problem with sound, I tried to reflow it and it didn’t work so i believe the dsp chip is fried which was why I bought the NR626,(I didn’t get the history from the seller) but upon running the NR626 I discovered that I can access network, bt, wifi ,usb and the main menu functioning is good – it is exciting, but I have no sound. I only get the first relay click once I turn it on and there is no heat on the dsp chip and the hdmi board does not even get warm at all. Going back to how onkyo updates work, I was wondering does the NR626 have the same design as the NR646 in regard to dsp1 and dsp 2 not being fully updated. So what do you think I should do todd? IIRC, the NR626 only has 1 DSP so I doubt that this is the issue but I will look through my old boards to see if I have one I can use to confirm this. To get started you really need to check the firmware revisions of the unit to make sure everything is booting. You can do this by:
1) press and hold the "DISPLAY" button - while holding "DISPLAY", press the "ON/STANDBY" button 2) within 3 seconds, press the "TONE +" key
- This will bring up the MAIN CPU firmware level - Press the "TONE +" key again to see the DSP firmware level - Keep pressing this button to scroll through all of the firmware
If you see anything with a series of question marks that would indicate what has failed. Report what you find back to the forum and I will try to help you diagnose it.
thx Todd
I just checked my stock of old boards and found an NR626 board. There is only 1 DSP on this board and since you have USB/Network/BT, it would indicate that the DSP is booting. As an aside, people assume that these parts get hot. They don't. If you let them run for a while you will eventually feel some warmth but in a properly running system these parts run pretty cool. It is heat generated from below that causes the board to warp and break the connections.
There are a lot of potential explanations for "no sound" so you should start with the basics:
1) check the firmware versions as I suggested previously. 2) check each voltage rail to ensure it is delivering the correct voltage. Some can be tricky to find simply because Onkyo often places a microscopically small voltage regulator between the primary output of the voltage rail and the actual voltage rail. This part simply provides short circuit protection and gives the MAIN CPU control to turn the circuit on/off 3) reset the amp by holding "CBL/SAT" and pressing the "ON/STANDBY" button 4) download the service manual from electrotankya and run through the integrated diags.
HTH
todd
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Post by trytofix on Sept 13, 2019 19:22:35 GMT -5
IIRC, the NR626 only has 1 DSP so I doubt that this is the issue but I will look through my old boards to see if I have one I can use to confirm this. To get started you really need to check the firmware revisions of the unit to make sure everything is booting. You can do this by:
1) press and hold the "DISPLAY" button - while holding "DISPLAY", press the "ON/STANDBY" button 2) within 3 seconds, press the "TONE +" key
- This will bring up the MAIN CPU firmware level - Press the "TONE +" key again to see the DSP firmware level - Keep pressing this button to scroll through all of the firmware
If you see anything with a series of question marks that would indicate what has failed. Report what you find back to the forum and I will try to help you diagnose it.
thx Todd
I just checked my stock of old boards and found an NR626 board. There is only 1 DSP on this board and since you have USB/Network/BT, it would indicate that the DSP is booting. As an aside, people assume that these parts get hot. They don't. If you let them run for a while you will eventually feel some warmth but in a properly running system these parts run pretty cool. It is heat generated from below that causes the board to warp and break the connections.
There are a lot of potential explanations for "no sound" so you should start with the basics:
1) check the firmware versions as I suggested previously. 2) check each voltage rail to ensure it is delivering the correct voltage. Some can be tricky to find simply because Onkyo often places a microscopically small voltage regulator between the primary output of the voltage rail and the actual voltage rail. This part simply provides short circuit protection and gives the MAIN CPU control to turn the circuit on/off 3) reset the amp by holding "CBL/SAT" and pressing the "ON/STANDBY" button 4) download the service manual from electrotankya and run through the integrated diags.
HTH
todd
Todd thank you so much for your response; 1. The steps you mentioned about the display button, although I did it before I repeated it again today and these are my findings: MMPU (M1.09/14Y05AE), DSP (D1.15/15915AEA), VIDEO (V1.03/13708AE), VSP (K1.02/13724AE0). This is on the firmware’s version and there was nothing with a series of question marks although I get those marks on my NR515 on the dsp. After downloading the service manual, I went into the audio debug mode and I will attach the pictures. 2. I did the amp reset as you said although I had done it before and last night I also did a firmware update, despite the firmware being the last updated version using a force update method, since I didn’t get any history from the seller just to check if the previous update was a completed update and it turned out to be completed. 3. Despite doing all this I still don’t get the 2nd,3rd relay click which is actually a surprise for me to have access to the full functionality of the amp with the issue of only no sound out. I also used the audyssey multEQ with the mic and the amp’s front display showed ‘’speaker detect error.’’ it looks like the amp is assuming there is power going all the way to the terminal. I just don’t know how to read that result. As for the voltage rail, I don’t know what exactly to check, I will go through the service manual unless you have a specific place you know I should test. Something else drew my attention, when I opened up the amp cover looking at the HDMI board, the dsp writing connector looked bent could be from the heat generated below or could also be from a previous reflow of the dsp not sure if that has significance. All in all, still No sound maybe as you mentioned its something to do with the voltage regulator. If you know anything that can be done before we get to the difficult microscopic parts. let me know 1) firmware’s version:     2) Audio debug mode (if it helps):                  3) HDMI Board:   Tanks |
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Post by tjmotter on Sept 13, 2019 21:10:51 GMT -5
I will try to take some pictures of where to check the voltages and post them tomorrow. I will work through the test results tomorrow and send you some thoughts.
This is an odd one. There is a LOT going on within these receivers and this type of problem can be difficult to debug. Some examples would be:
1) If any of the DSP "out" connections are broken you can lose those speakers. The challenge here is that there are at least 5 of them and it is terribly unlikely that the DSP would have enough connections to boot up yet have 5 connections broken
2) the Main CPU will send a signal to the board with the signal terminals to turn on the speaker relays. Again, the challenge here is that there are several of them so having them all fail is unlikely. There is a diode, a transistor and a relay for each channel. If this circuit isn't working it won't turn on the speakers - I will try to send you some ideas on how to check this by monitoring the signals on the MAIN CPU.
3) the volume control chip can affect this because if the CPU doesn't get a response, it won't enable the speakers - this type of issue (where the failure of one component can cause the CPU to not want to turn on the relays) is the most logical one but there aren't a lot of these kinds of "spots" in the design. In this case, those volume IC's are a royal pain to check because they sit on the bottom of the main amp board. I have only seen this chip fail on 2 systems (of the 120+ I have fixed) but both were hit by lightning and there was a lot more wrong with them.
One possibility is that the receiver experienced a power surge that was strong enough to do some damage but not strong enough to hurt the "big stuff". By "big stuff" I mean that on the units hit by lightning, the MAIN CPU, Volume chip and about 20 other parts were blown. If the surge was localized it is possible that one of the Mute transistors blew. They tend to be a little fragile anyway and if one fried into a short it could potentially tie the mute signal line to ground which wouldn't allow any of them to turn on. They are cheap and easy to replace but they also sit on the bottom of the Amp board. If you have a chance you might want to pull that board out and check one of them to see if the signal line seems to be tied to ground. If so, 1 or more of these is the likely culprit.
I will try to follow up with any additional ideas tomorrow.
Todd
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Post by tjmotter on Sept 14, 2019 9:59:24 GMT -5
Here are the voltages you need to check. Place your ground lead on one of the HDMI port cases and probe with your red lead. The pink arrow points to one of the microscopic voltage regulators I mentioned so you need to test both sides of it. Note that these little suckers rarely fail and are a nightmare to replace (6 tiny solder balls on the bottom and it is so light that any amount of air flow will blow them out of position) so pulling them off is a last resort. The rail circled in red should be 5V The rails circled in orange (both sides) should be 3.3V The rails circled in yellow (both sides) should be 1.8V The rails circled in purple (both sides) should be 1.3V Let me know what you find. Todd  |
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Post by tjmotter on Sept 14, 2019 11:07:56 GMT -5
Todd thank you so much for your response; 1. The steps you mentioned about the display button, although I did it before I repeated it again today and these are my findings: MMPU (M1.09/14Y05AE), DSP (D1.15/15915AEA), VIDEO (V1.03/13708AE), VSP (K1.02/13724AE0). This is on the firmware’s version and there was nothing with a series of question marks although I get those marks on my NR515 on the dsp. After downloading the service manual, I went into the audio debug mode and I will attach the pictures. 2. I did the amp reset as you said although I had done it before and last night I also did a firmware update, despite the firmware being the last updated version using a force update method, since I didn’t get any history from the seller just to check if the previous update was a completed update and it turned out to be completed. 3. Despite doing all this I still don’t get the 2nd,3rd relay click which is actually a surprise for me to have access to the full functionality of the amp with the issue of only no sound out. I also used the audyssey multEQ with the mic and the amp’s front display showed ‘’speaker detect error.’’ it looks like the amp is assuming there is power going all the way to the terminal. I just don’t know how to read that result. As for the voltage rail, I don’t know what exactly to check, I will go through the service manual unless you have a specific place you know I should test. Something else drew my attention, when I opened up the amp cover looking at the HDMI board, the dsp writing connector looked bent could be from the heat generated below or could also be from a previous reflow of the dsp not sure if that has significance. All in all, still No sound maybe as you mentioned its something to do with the voltage regulator. If you know anything that can be done before we get to the difficult microscopic parts. let me know 2) Audio debug mode (if it helps): Ok, looking at the output from step-2 of the Audio debug mode, there should be a "o" after the first colon. It is blank in your picture which would indicate that the Main CPU is not communicating properly with the DSP. This may mean that one of the solderballs has cracked and while everything else is working, a signal is missing to allow the system to boot. I am not sure that I always trust the Onkyo diag modes but it may be worth reflowing the DSP chip to see if that fixes the issue. The MAIN CPU connects to the DSP through 7 lines: R6, P6, T5, N4, P5, N5 and T6. As you can see, they are clustered toward the bottom center of the DSP (the dsp pins are number by row eg. 1, 2, 3... and column eg. a, b, c, d.... so make sure you apply enough heat in this region
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Post by trytofix on Sept 14, 2019 16:07:48 GMT -5
Here are the voltages you need to check. Place your ground lead on one of the HDMI port cases and probe with your red lead. The pink arrow points to one of the microscopic voltage regulators I mentioned so you need to test both sides of it. Note that these little suckers rarely fail and are a nightmare to replace (6 tiny solder balls on the bottom and it is so light that any amount of air flow will blow them out of position) so pulling them off is a last resort. The rail circled in red should be 5V The rails circled in orange (both sides) should be 3.3V The rails circled in yellow (both sides) should be 1.8V The rails circled in purple (both sides) should be 1.3V Let me know what you find. Todd Ok todd, i will do the voltage tests on the rails that you mentioned, but I am leaning more towards the possibility that it could be the mute transistors which you mentioned in your previous response. although you said that the diag mode is not trustworthy, looking deeper into debug mode I noticed that it wasn't only the 'o' from step 2 that was missing but a lot more. for example, if you look at step1/4, its blank when it would have been 'd' or 'a' which is why I am leaning more towards the mute transistors, so I think your idea about the mute transistors is the most likely collaborate rather than the DSP, but either way, I will reflow the DSP just to be sure. Also I don't know if you noticed the step 5/18 where it indicates that "decode ok."in addition to step 1/1. As for the voltage test, do I have to connect the device directly to a power outlet or can it be done without? I will post the results as soon as i have completed the tests. thank you, todd. |
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