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Post by nadral on Sept 15, 2019 6:52:38 GMT -5
Hello. At first I apologize for my English language but I write with a translator. I have a problem with ONKYO TX-NR818. By accident, I pressed the remote on the remote to update the software over the internet and stopped sounding. First it displayed ARM WRITING 0-100% COMPLETED and then after restart it no longer shows icons from the speakers and makes no sounds. I tried to upload the software over USB and everything is loading but not DSP2. DSP2 WRITING 98% displayed ERROR 1-40 UPDATE on the display during loading. I found the thread "tjmotter" repairalmostanything.com/thread/767/never-wanted-onkyo-firmwareand it seems to me that this is the description of my fault in ONKYO 818. Could someone tell me what exactly should I do to make my ONKYO come alive? 1) Which component do I need to desolder and program? processor or flash? 2) Will I find somewhere some .bin or .hex file needed to upload? Maybe someone has such a file? 3) What adapter will I need? Thank you in advance for every hint ... |
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Post by tjmotter on Sept 15, 2019 7:18:41 GMT -5
If this is the same issue as the NR646 in that thread, you would need to reprogram Q3401. Do you have the ability to remove this chip and do you have a programmer?
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Post by nadral on Sept 15, 2019 8:08:10 GMT -5
Is it about W25Q16CVSSIG (Q3401)? There is no problem removing the item. I don't have a programmer yet, but I'll see if I can buy or find someone near me who can program it for me. I still need to find a file for this system.
tjmotter, do you have any file for this system? When I desolder the system and prepare the programmer to program the system, can you help me where to get a file from?
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Post by tjmotter on Sept 15, 2019 13:20:52 GMT -5
I will check
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Post by nadral on Sept 16, 2019 13:15:51 GMT -5
tjmotter, I am ready to program. I hope I program it with the USB CH341 programmer? Have you looked at your own home or do you have any soft for W25Q16?  |
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Post by tjmotter on Sept 16, 2019 14:52:36 GMT -5
tjmotter, I am ready to program. I hope I program it with the USB CH341 programmer? Have you looked at your own home or do you have any soft for W25Q16? check your messages |
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Post by tjmotter on Sept 21, 2019 6:57:36 GMT -5
One additional comment. Whenever I program a chip, I always do a read afterwards and compare the resulting file to the original. There are several programs that can do this including: "UltraCompare" by IDM Computer Solutions or "HxD" from mh-nexus.de
The two files should be identical. If they are not, you can either try it again or try a different programmer. The programmers most often used for home use aren't the best and it is always possible to have timing issues. In fact, even with my FlashCat, I find that sometimes I need to move the programmer to a different USB port to get a perfectly matched chip.
HTH
Todd
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Post by nadral on Sept 24, 2019 14:38:16 GMT -5
Thank you for all the tips of the tjmotter. NAND reprogramming helped. I'm closing the topic. best regards
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Post by zeg361 on Nov 18, 2019 13:56:30 GMT -5
Hello,
I have a similar problem with the Onkyo TX-NR818
Firmware shown: 1141-4104-02??-0000
Uploading of the firmware not possible: error 1-40 during writing DSP
Main problem: no sound, everything else seems to be working.
I can remove the board and even replace the chip. But programming seems to be too complicated for me. Any suggestion how to solve the problem? If I send the chip, can somethig do the work for me (country surround germany?, I would pay something of course.)
I saw in some forums people trying to heat-up some chips? can it be something that apply also to me, at least to ultimate define the problem?
Thanks for any help,
Bye
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Post by tibimakai on Nov 19, 2019 0:36:01 GMT -5
Reheating may work, but nobody knows for how long, if the DSP IC is still good. B versions had been recalled by Texas Instruments, for early failures. D version can be used, to replace the old one. The IC may be bad already, so you wouldn't lose anything by trying.
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Post by tjmotter on Nov 19, 2019 19:50:39 GMT -5
Reheating may work, but nobody knows for how long, if the DSP IC is still good. B versions had been recalled by Texas Instruments, for early failures. D version can be used, to replace the old one. The IC may be bad already, so you wouldn't lose anything by trying. Do be careful though. I bought a broken NR818 with the no sound issue. Imagine my surprise when I found that someone had tried the "reheat" method and used so much heat that the board became VERY warped. The DSP was sitting almost 2mm lower than the rest of the board. It was one of the very few boards I have worked on that was completely unrepairable. I ended up converting an NR1010 HDMI board into an NR818 board to get the receiver working again. |
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Post by zeg361 on Nov 20, 2019 8:49:41 GMT -5
Installed by me at Q3401 is a winbond 25016CVSIG Serial 1152. I see almost three options:
1 - Is it possible to replace it with a new one and run the firmware through standard onkyo procedure?
2 - tjmotter where are you leaving? If I send the board to you can you fit it?
3 - is it possible to buy the entire board, new or retrofitted?
My last alternative would be to send the entire AVR to Onyko in Stuttgart, but I think it would cost more than buy a used working AVR...
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Post by tjmotter on Nov 20, 2019 17:30:44 GMT -5
Installed by me at Q3401 is a winbond 25016CVSIG Serial 1152. I see almost three options: 1 - Is it possible to replace it with a new one and run the firmware through standard onkyo procedure? 2 - tjmotter where are you leaving? If I send the board to you can you fit it? 3 - is it possible to buy the entire board, new or retrofitted? My last alternative would be to send the entire AVR to Onyko in Stuttgart, but I think it would cost more than buy a used working AVR... I don't think you have a hardware issue. I suspect that someone started a firmware update from a very old release and then tried to move to the latest in one step. Onkyo had an interim firmware release on the NR818 that required that the software be installed in a different order. My current working theory is that when Onkyo decided to move to a USB only firmware update, they had to change the order that the firmware updated in. It would typically update the DSP1 then DSP2, then VMPU, then VSP and finally, the MMPU. What is likely happening is that this change in the order screws things up a bit. To resolve this we are going to have to first try to get the firmware to a stable release by doing each firmware piece one at a time.
Try this first:
Step 1) reset the amp by holding the "CBL/SAT" button and while holding it, press the "ON/STANDBY" button.
Step 2) connect to the internet via the ethernet port and start the amp.
- next, press and hold the "DISPLAY" button and while holding, press the "ON/STANDBY" button
- within 3 seconds press the "RETURN" button (below the selector wheel)
- using the up/down button on the wheel select "Network Update"
- using the left/right button on the wheel select "MMPU"
- when the display shows "Network --> MMPU", press the center button ("Enter") in the middle of the selector wheel
-let the amp run through its update and note it if fails.
Step 3)
- follow the same steps as shown in "Step 2) but change the display to say "Network --> DSP1" - once completed, turn the amp off and then on again. Step 4) DSP2 - follow the same steps as shown in "Step 2) but change the display to say "Network --> DSP2" - once completed, turn the amp off and then on again.
Step 5) VMPU
- follow the same steps as shown in "Step 2) but change the display to say "Network --> VMPU" - once completed, turn the amp off and then on again. Step 6) VSP - follow the same steps as shown in "Step 2) but change the display to say "Network --> VSP" - once completed, turn the amp off and then on again. Now, turn the system on as usual and perform a reset as described in "Step 1"
After the system turns off, turn it on again and give it a couple of minutes to bootup. Next, check the firmware levels to see if everything is booting properly. If so, download the latest firmware from the Onkyo website and place it on a USB stick. Disconnect the ethernet cable and place the USB stick in the front USB port. Finally, use the standard Onkyo process (Press "home" on the remote and navigate to "Firmware Update") and instruct the unit to upgrade the firmware via USB.
To answer your question, I live in Texas in the USA. I could probably fix your board but I strongly suspect that it would cost you more to ship it to me (and have me ship it back) than what an Onkyo repair depot would charge. Plus there is always the risk of shipping damage.
Let me know how this works.
Todd
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Post by zeg361 on Dec 11, 2019 4:32:53 GMT -5
Oh, Texas is a nice place, I have been in Mabank some years ago. Suddently there were no rodeos ongoing that period :-)
Anyway, thanks a lot for the precise instructions, which I followed with these results:
Update MMPU -> completed
Update VMPU -> completed
Update D830 -> ARM writing, at 9%, Error 6-40
Update DSP2 -> no % indicated as writing process did not start, Error 1-40
Update VSP -> Error 3-68
Update OSD -> completed
The firmware changed from 1141-4104-02??-0000 to 1101-4101-01??-0000
The story before the failure:
- I did a firmware update from the last available from NET to the final one, which was available via USB only. Update run smootly. The AVR has been working for some weeks.
- One day I came back at home and there was no audio. I asked my three childrens if they did something. Of course they said nothing at all! :-)
After asking again, one of the three told me that he connected one HDMI cable (the one I use to connect the laptop, Input DVD of AVR) to an input HDMI of the TV. TV is normally connected through AVR HDMI Port OUT MAIN. But I don´t know it the problem arose from this action.
- The AVR was asking to start a firmware update from NET. I´m not sure if the childrens started such update, as the avr was ok. I think more that the failure set the firmware with a number ??, therefore the automatic request to update the firmware.
Do you think there is still something to try? If not, I´m also evaluating the possibility to bypass all video and audio processing and use the final power amp section only. Do you think there are some tutorial about?
Bye,
Paolo (from germany)
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Post by tibimakai on Dec 11, 2019 10:47:51 GMT -5
I believe, that they mention to disable the HDMI CEC before the update, for most likely this kind of reasons.
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