The new beasties: Two Lexicon LX-7's

So first off, I am trying to figure out what the trigger receptacle terminator plug is.  I started a thread over here if anyone can help out with that?
repairalmostanything.com/thread/855/help-kind-plug-terminator

It has been suggested that it may be a Phoenix / Euroblock connector, but I'm not so sure because the dimensions don't seem correct?

I also really want the service manual and schematics for these and have come up blank finding them.  I know Lexicon is super tight lipped with there data sheets, but does anybody have them they could share.  I do promise to keep them private.

Also, I need to run these on 220~240 VAC and they are the USA versions.  On the main board of the 2002 amp there is this plug (the 2006 amp has something similar):



It seems all I need do is unplug the transformer from 120v and plug it into 230v?  And, I'd need to half the fuse value too obviously.  Can someone confirm this because I really don't want to try by experimentation.  The amps are working well so I just don't want to catch them on fire   yet.
Other than that I think I'm good.  I would have over paid if they turned out to be boxes of bolts, but for once I finally came out on top!

Best,
craigr

No manuals or schematics from any of my sources.

Yeah, thats why I hung up my soldering iron and switched hobbies. Much happier now, lol.

I've been buying and redoing old muscle cars and street rods. Some are projects that someone started and did not finish. Some I sell and some I keep. Maybe keeping more then selling, lol.

Hi Craig. It's me. Oh, the name doesn't ring a bell. Well, I have 2 of your repaired Dune players and you have 2 of my repaired Dune remotes.
What did you find wrong with these amps and have you had any luck finding manuals? Lexicon. Madrigal, Mark Levinson, Proceed all the same me thinks.
I have one amp module down in my Proceed Amp5. So now it's a hundred and something pound 4 channel amp.

Oh, as far as changing the color of the fronts DIY, have you considered trying gun black. It's like stain for metal.

I just got the faceplates back today after having them reanodized in black. They were done at Mike's Anodizing Company here in Chicago (859 N Spaulding Ave, 773-722-5778). Mike says he likes doing little projects like these, and he personally spent a good amount of time with me. He gave me a tour of their facility and it is really something and it sure is bigger than I expected. He also said they would take a week, but I brought them in Monday morning around 10:00 and they were finished Wednesday afternoon.

I considered matching the texture of the LX-7's with the MC-10, but Mike said he'd have to send them out for that. It would have taken a week and cost $115 plus shipping. Mike thought I'd be really happy leaving them as-is and boy he was right. It would have been a waste. He also said their military black would be a near perfect match to the MC-10 and he was correct there too. Lexicon black is like pitch black, which is a bit atypical for AV gear, but Mike said this is what the military expects when they ask for black. He really knows his stuff and I highly recommend the company. They also stripped the old anodization before the reanodization. I removed the original silkscreen myself with Goof Off, a Q-tip, a microfiber, and some elbow grease.

I don't want to post pricing because it's not my intention to box them in, but I will say I found the price very reasonable. I really wanted to attempt this on my own, but I doubt my results would have been nearly this good and I am sure procuring everything to do it would have actually cost more (plus a lot of time).







I had to over expose the photos in my theater because it's hard to see anything in there due to the entire room being black and nonreflective. Also, there is a bit of a trick of the light and they don't look the same color in the photo, but they are. I even switched the two faceplates to be sure. I think it's the black leather chair reflecting off the bottom one a bit.

Anyway, I have to decide if I want to restore the original silkscreen or not. I think they look good the way they are already, but maybe they would be better. Mike and some other folks have recommended having them laser etched instead of silkscreen, and Mike gave me a referral for that. I'm waiting for their quite before I decide.

Oh yeah, another thing is that after I took the photos I added neutral density filters to the LEDs so they wouldn't be so bright in my dark room. I just barely like to be able to see them in the dark so they aren't distracting, but they still provide their information (blue is nominal, red is overheat...).

I'm quite please

craigr

Here is one with the dimmed LED's. The photo is still over exposed so they appear brighter than they really are, but you get the idea.



craigr