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Post by barclay66 on Feb 13, 2020 5:14:10 GMT -5
Hi,
If the inputs on HDMI 1 were shorted to ground, You can expect IC202 to be completely dead. Therefore a functioning HDMI 2 input would be a miracle. First of all You should make sure You started at the right end: Do the internal menus and the analog input work? If not, IC202 won't be the only thing that was fried. If the answer to the first question is yes, is the power supply at IC202 working (3.3V at pins 6, 12, 19, 25, 40, 46, 55, 61)? Did You check the resistor packs at the inputs? Mine were blown on at least one of them. Did You check the additional components around the input circuitry? I found burnt/exploded parts at HDMI 1. And yes, solder bridges may have damaged IC202. Especially if they connected supply voltages directly to output lines.
I didn't measure any voltages bevor or after replacement of IC202. IC202 doesn't need any programming. Only IC200 and IC201 need to be programmed if replaced as they contain the data needed that source devices connected to the Sony need for identifying its capabilities.
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Post by barclay66 on Nov 24, 2018 4:33:41 GMT -5
Hi,
With some freezing spray, You could try to locate the area and subsequently the part which causes the problem. If, when spraying onto a part, the noise returns, then You‘re near the solution...
Kind Regards, barclay66
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Post by barclay66 on Nov 2, 2018 5:16:53 GMT -5
Hi, To my knowledge, Fresnel lenses have no practical use in conjunction with CRT projectors. They are mostly used for LCD projedtion instead of a much larger lens type ( Fresnel -> Section Projection). Almost all of the rear projection setups I have seen, suffered from a very prominent hot spot and allowed only vor very small viewing angles. Instead, I would suggest mounting the projector vertically to the wall (Lenses upward) and using a 45 degree surface mirror... Kind Regards, barclay66
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Post by barclay66 on Oct 4, 2018 11:24:53 GMT -5
Hi,
Sorry, but I fail to understand: Which is which in which picture? Is what is shown a good or bad result?
Kind Regards, barclay66
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Post by barclay66 on Sept 15, 2018 4:44:29 GMT -5
Would like to have it working for the meet in Oktober, at least just to use it as a geometry reference for the CRT setup, wich is pretty much what it do best. Hi,
I have a FullHD Projector (Benq MH740) that I could bring with me if needed. It too is good for geometry reference (and that's about it... ;-)
Kind Regards, barclay66
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Post by barclay66 on Sept 14, 2018 8:51:52 GMT -5
Hi,
the Service Manual is available on elektrotanya.com (the ZIP file one, search for DLA-X7), unfortunately no schematics for the ballast module. It mentions that the number of blinks represents a specific fault (page 22). Maybe that helps...
Kind Regards, barclay66
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Post by barclay66 on Aug 23, 2018 3:04:07 GMT -5
No. I simply saw the question, knew the answer and had the time for writing it. Just a matter of contributing factors...
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Post by barclay66 on Aug 22, 2018 11:00:49 GMT -5
Nope. Ceramic non-polarized...
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Post by barclay66 on Aug 22, 2018 4:13:13 GMT -5
Hi,
That should be a 10µF / 16V ceramic (MLCC) capacitor.
Kind Regards, barclay66
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Post by barclay66 on Jul 6, 2018 3:26:25 GMT -5
Hi,
I found a broad range of original and second source batteries on ebay. The second source ones should be new. Pricing range between 4-20€...
Kind Regards, barclay66
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Post by barclay66 on Jul 5, 2018 18:08:02 GMT -5
Hi,
If a Lithium Ion battery is left in storage without charge it will most likely be completely dead as deep discharge will damage this type of battery. It should be left in storage with a charge between 60-80%. Then it will experience a self-discharge of about 1-2% per month. In this case it still could be healthy after several years. I wouldn’t accept a battery sent to me if it showed no voltage at arrival. If arrived with more than 70% of its nominal voltage, I would give it a try. Interrupt the charging cycle at 80-90% for the first few cycles...
Kind Regards, barclay66
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Post by barclay66 on Jul 4, 2018 4:38:09 GMT -5
Hi,
Braun customer service website in Germany states that this model (4085 not 4805, Model Type KF32) is no longer supported. Replacement parts dealers may have limited stock of spare parts but the heating elements (if there are any) will always be for 220V. At least I haven't seen any other, sorry...
Kind Regards, barclay66
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Post by barclay66 on Jun 12, 2018 2:56:41 GMT -5
Hi,
The sheet is made from the white material that You can find below the upper mother board so it's not very thick (maybe 1/3 mm). How is the grounding of Your tubes made? I use the following configuration:
- Grounding ribbon from the large heat sink to the left screw of the VNB box on the red tube - Grounding ribbon from the left screw of the VNB box to the top metal cover on the red tube - Grounding ribbon from the right screw of the red VNB box to the bracket screw of the FGM case - Grounding ribbon from the bracket screw of the FGM case to the left screw of the VNB box on the green tube - Grounding ribbon from the left screw of the VNB box to the top metal cover on the green tube - Grounding ribbon from the right screw of the green VNB box to the bracket screw of the HDM case - Grounding ribbon from the bracket screw of the HDM case to the left screw of the VNB box on the blue tube - Grounding ribbon from the left screw of the VNB box to the top metal cover on the blue tube - Grounding ribbon from the right screw of the blue VNB box to the large heat sink
Of course, each neck board is grounded with its two cables, one with the plug connected to the bottom of the VNB case, the other attached to the left screw of the box.
Kind Regards, barclay66
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Post by barclay66 on Jun 11, 2018 2:50:18 GMT -5
Hi,
This shouldn't happen normally. I have my splitter mounted between the red tube and the FGM. The FGM metal case has been insulated with a plastic sheet and the splitter is fastened to the metal sheet below the tubes that covers the belly fans. No issues at all. From time to time (maybe every six months) I clean the splitter and the HV leads with alcohol in order to remove dust and accumulated dirt. Do You have a spare? It is possible that the one You're using has an insulation failure. Over time and with some thermal stress, it could happen that the potting material or the plastic case will produce microscopic cracks (a common failure of HV quadruplers in the CRT TV era). As the high voltage will attract dirt, it is ineviatble that at some time it will begin arcing. I would suggest cleaning the HV leads thoroughly with alcohol (Kontakt WL is very good for this too) and try another splitter that You have cleaned as well. The resistor value inside of the splitter shouldn't be critical as long as it doesn't change while in use.
Kind Regards, barclay66
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Post by barclay66 on May 7, 2018 6:37:20 GMT -5
This is indeed strange. I would suggest adding a separate grounding wire. On the device shown in the picture above You could use the grounding screw. On the other device, You could use one of the screws that hold the metal case together.
Kind Regards, barclay66
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