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Post by km987654 on Jun 18, 2017 4:59:37 GMT -5
Just had a look at the Cine8 firmware I have and its older than yours Do you have your Cine 8 firmware as a binary? Can you tell me the RWI chip version is on the control board and also the size of the eProm for the Cine 8 firmware.
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Post by km987654 on Jun 15, 2017 20:55:21 GMT -5
The one thing I know is that no matter the version, apparently all are susceptible to locking up with a black screen if for some reason the IRIS auto-convergence or auto-picture don't manage to finish their routine properly. (IE try to run it with a less then optimal toe in and camera setup. I've had this happen on multiple occasions, now on multiple projectors whenever I tried to do an auto-setup with the PJ on a stand just to get a quick picture out of it.) I have never used IRIS so I haven't seen this issue.
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Post by km987654 on Jun 14, 2017 20:57:14 GMT -5
Yeah I can post it when I get back for the weekend, I'm out of town on assignment till friday. It's Onyx firmware, at least the label said so, but I doubt there's any difference, it also just says Cine 8 as the projector type while booting. Im not sure there was any difference in capability between the Cine 8 and the ONYX, as far as i know it is just the LC that makes it different. Might be worth looking at what the Zenith version has on it, that was basically an identical set, but how different the software would be i dont know, they may have only changed the brand logo and ID screen details. You are probably right but its worth a look.
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Post by km987654 on Jun 14, 2017 20:56:15 GMT -5
Just had a look at the Cine8 firmware I have and its older than yours Do you have your Cine 8 firmware as a binary? Thanks for posting.
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Post by km987654 on Jun 12, 2017 0:18:26 GMT -5
V 7.61 was the last. Its attached for you. Huge thanks! Do you know if 1.12 was the last for the Cine series? Just had a look at the Cine8 firmware I have and its older than yours Do you have your Cine 8 firmware as a binary?
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Post by km987654 on Jun 10, 2017 6:35:50 GMT -5
Okay so the set looks to be solid now, and I looked through what I have available as spares. I noticed that the set of neckboards in the PJ seem to be modded, as they all have VPH08 chips instead of the VPJ08B that are in my Onyx and on the Sony tubes. I remember a while back I read something about the differences in these chips, but I cannot for the life of me find it again. Can anyone shed some light on which is better and why? I will probably swap in the VPJ08B boards to have everything matching between the two sets, unless there is something that makes the VPH chips better enough to get my hands on another set of them and mod my spare neckboards with them. The VPJ08B video packages are the latest ones made. VPH08 were the original video packages that barco used and that is what you will see on the PCB even with the VPJ08B.
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Post by km987654 on Jun 10, 2017 5:30:25 GMT -5
Okay problem found. The HV led was indeed off, so the problem wasn't in the HV circuit. Despite that I did try unplugging tube after tube, but no dice. Tried moving the scan switches, thinking one might have a contact fault, but nothing. Ultimately I ended up swapping board after board with known working ones. Turns out this problem was completely unrelated to the rebuild, I guess it was just time for the vertical board to go the way of the dodo. What is strange is that the no-sync led that is on the vertical board behaves normally, but for some reason still triggers the scan-fail circuit. Might be a fault on the output side, maybe a shorted transistor or something? Later on I will try looking at it to see if I can locate the fault. Lucky I have a bunch of riser boards so I can test boards in-circuit Also lucky I got a bunch of spare boards with the set I bought for the tubes! I have two spares, both working, though one I also put in the 'to look at later' pile, as whenever the picture/sync changes, as it locks sync, for a second the vertical linearity jumps around a bit, as if it was just barely catching the sync signal. Excellent. The vertical deflection board will certain cause the issue. If you are running thats what matters.
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Post by km987654 on Jun 10, 2017 0:57:41 GMT -5
Scan fail would mean no HV. The causes are a bad H or V Deflection board or bad EHT and/or Quad or splitter. Check the EHT for a red LED. Its not always easy to see but if you position yourself right and its on you will see it. If its on then you either have a bad EHT or Quad or both or perhaps a bad splitter. Re-seat all removable boards listed and try again. The other thing to look for is that all the cables to the deflection coils are in place. As you have been building this its possible one of those is not located properly. In terms of the G2 board are you using a G2 board for Sony tubes ie the one that has the HV block on the back of it? That's strange because I can definitely hear the short, high-pitched whine that accompanies the startup of HV, yet the scan-fail led comes on pretty much at the same time as all the other green leds. I already reseated all the boards. I had misplaced one of the deflection connectors earlier, but that was already fixed. The PJ was working when suddenly the scan-fail came on with no snap, no crackle and no pop. It was as if someone just pushed the pause button on the remote. The g2 board does have a HV block on it, but both the panasonic and the Sony tubed projectors use the same board, only the HV block is not used, just has rubber caps on the connectors when it's not using the Sony tubes. Despite that I am using the board that came with the Panasonic tubes simply because I didn't have to touch g2 this way, but I already tried installing one of the spare g2 boards and the result is the same. I will have a second look, but the HV fail led was not on last night, only the scan-fail! The HV may well start up which is what you hear and then shut down when scan fail comes into play which would only take a second or two. You really have to look through a hole on top of the EHT board and move side to side to to see the EHT red LED. If you have a scan fail LED on the G2 board then HV has already shut down to protect the tubes.
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Post by km987654 on Jun 10, 2017 0:52:33 GMT -5
V 7.61 was the last. Its attached for you. Huge thanks! Do you know if 1.12 was the last for the Cine series? I will check what I have but I believe that mine is the same. If thats the last I don't know. I have tried in the past to obtain a later version but no-one came up with anything.
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Post by km987654 on Jun 9, 2017 19:34:40 GMT -5
Does anyone have the last Bg808S eprom version in a binary they could post? I think this was V7.61, but if there's a newer one, I'd take that too. Thanks! BG808s V7.61 (1 MB) V 7.61 was the last. Its attached for you.
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Post by km987654 on Jun 9, 2017 19:24:15 GMT -5
BG808s--> Cine 8 Onyx Conversion done, bar the lenses. However I have a new problem. As seen above, the unit was working perfectly fine. I was messing around with Iris, and started a full autopicture. The patterns started flashing, then suddenly everything went black. Unit has HV, you can hear the whine at startup, neckglow is present, G2 board diagnostic leds all on, including scan fail. No other red led lit. Tried pulling the convergence tray, result is the same. Replaced the G2 board, no joy. Since I have no other red led on I don't know which direction to look first. Anyone any tips ? Scan fail would mean no HV. The causes are a bad H or V Deflection board or bad EHT and/or Quad or splitter. Check the EHT for a red LED. Its not always easy to see but if you position yourself right and its on you will see it. If its on then you either have a bad EHT or Quad or both or perhaps a bad splitter. Re-seat all removable boards listed and try again. The other thing to look for is that all the cables to the deflection coils are in place. As you have been building this its possible one of those is not located properly. In terms of the G2 board are you using a G2 board for Sony tubes ie the one that has the HV block on the back of it?
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Post by km987654 on Jun 5, 2017 5:57:54 GMT -5
So yesterday saw my first extended test of the Onyx, and I have mixed feelings about the set. The colours are obviously better, the haloing is also virtually gone, and I could focus the green tube amazingly well. So that sounds all fine and dandy, but I am not at all happy with the red tube. The sad part is I don't think it's a magnetics issue. When focusing, the dot shape doesn't change, but even at it's smallest, I can barely get scanlines to show when the green clearly shows them. There is also quite a bit more drift after warmup in the convergence circuits than in my 808s, despite the fact that that set is past 11000 hours runtime and this one only has some 4xx hours on it. I think this may be the case of aging capacitors, except for the red focus. I think that's just the way that tube is There is also a slight, erratic shifting of the image left and right. It seems to be erratic and random, and on the 3m wide screen it is a movement of maybe 5mm maximum, but it seems to be constant. Probably caps on the H board ? I also have an issue that may or may not be projector related, though I suspect it is both the PJ and my signal chain. Even when I have scanlines on the screen, the video seems somewhat out of focus, as if outlines of stuff on the screen were somewhat blurred. There is also a slight amount of video noise (not visible from seating position). It may be the fact that I have an AC cable running along my signal cable, or just the fact that it is a mess in the back of my equipment rack until I recieve my BNC crimping tool sometime next week. I think the projector may be involved as well, as it seems as if the text in the menus of the projector also becomes slightly blurred after 4-5 hours of on-time. Overall I think this machine still needs some TLC to bringi t back up to spec simply because of the age of the components. For the time being it stays in place until I have the other set here (hopefully on wednesday!) and I will start looking through what boards are in there and do the mix-and match. I will have to order some good quality caps. I think in both cases (Red and Green) you have some way to go with your CPC setup and you possibly have problems elsewhere with bad caps. Did you change tubes and use ones not from that model projector? If you did that can cause the sort of problems you mention but I would suggest you spend a good deal more time on those CPC settings first. Are the focus coils hard up against the deflection yokes?
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Post by km987654 on May 11, 2017 23:22:16 GMT -5
Those images are really out of focus when enlarged. It looks like you have a yellow cable running to the IRIS board and that should not be the case. The IRIS board is the little board attached to the Control board. Where does that cable come from? The IRIS board connects to the IRIS camera at the front of the convergence tray by a long gray cable.
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Post by km987654 on May 7, 2017 4:38:25 GMT -5
Nice job on those rings. Very professional.
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Post by km987654 on May 2, 2017 6:41:46 GMT -5
Honestly, the only part of the Barco setup that I am not at all happy with is the point or rather zone convergence. It's usable, but it seems I can never get the very edges right no matter what I do. I played a bit with the 808s focus last night, and after a bit of tweaking on the optical and some adjustment of the electronic focus, then a quick run of IRIS just to see the results, I managed to get a setup where at 1280x1024 I have properly readable text throughout the entire screen. It is actually pretty good now, in fact I have much superior focus to the 9PG, but the HD8 really has terrible haloing compared to the HD6/HD145 lenses. Also I noticed some artifacts in more dense patterns, which makes me think I may need some caps replaced in the RGB section, but that is for another day. My problem with the 9PG is exactly the focus. The spot-size is simply never tight enough for my liking. With the plus, I can go a little tighter, but both my plus machines are only 6PGs. As far as the colours go, I have to say NEC nailed it. And for retro gaming, they're very nice, but for anything higher res, they're just too soft. Also, while the settings are very versatile, I have to say that even after the chassis has been completely recapped, it takes three clicks of any adjustment to make any difference on the screen, at which point it jumps too much. So while technically it -looks- more precise then the barco, it's not really... :\ But let's not diverge too much, thread's about the Barco I plan to do a blend so it shouldn't be as taxing on the projectors, being distributed between the two, it should be sharp enough provided I can do the focusing properly. (I also need a proper screen finally.) To get Barco convergence to work you need to do all of the mechanical setup as well as possible.
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