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Post by km987654 on Apr 29, 2017 20:39:13 GMT -5
You are correct its not a U shape. You can replace it without removing the switch. I have done this a few times using the same part from an older Frame.
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Post by km987654 on Apr 25, 2017 23:30:22 GMT -5
For regular movie viewing, I'd definitely stick to 1080p, but for gaming I would like to go at least somewhat higher. I don't fully know the math to calculate it, but for gaming, some loss of low light level detail is probably more acceptable then for movies. Both PJs have the 120mhzh neckboards, so I think going somewhat higher should be no problem. How do you calculate for bandwidth requirement? What would be the highest resolution that is still within the 120mhz peak? I will check your link, as hoenstly the only thing I would need them for is converting the digital HDMI signal to RGBHV. And possibly to remove HDCP, though I ordered a splitter that should also do that. Those 120MHZ RGB end stages aren't really 120MHZ they use a VPJ08 video package which runs at about 80MHZ. Barco use peaking circuits to get a boost to bandwidth so I would suggest looking at those resolutions that could be supported at the video package bandwidth for the best image. Of course if image quality isn't top of the list try whatever you like.
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Post by km987654 on Apr 19, 2017 6:39:36 GMT -5
Your 808s must have a later quad if its working in the 909. For the sake of eliminating possible problems did you check the chart with your part numbers. Even an old 7 series quad will work in a CineMAX. His set is a CineMAX, essentially the same as a Cine 9, and very simular in many ways to a 909, but not exactly the same. Thanks Casey I am surprised that they are a straight swap but there you go.
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Post by km987654 on Apr 19, 2017 2:02:02 GMT -5
Your 808s must have a later quad if its working in the 909. For the sake of eliminating possible problems did you check the chart with your part numbers.
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Post by km987654 on Apr 18, 2017 3:10:12 GMT -5
I've just replace the quad with th one from my Bg808s with no luck. I'll replace the splitter next (also from the working bg808s) I don't believe that the Quads are a straight swap. The 909 would use a later version of the Quad which will require a jumper change on the Frame or if thats not possible on the EHT to accommodate the changes between the old and new Quads. There is a chart that Barco released (see Below) that gives what combinations of EHT, Quad and Splitter that will work to together although I believe all the splitters are interchangeable but the Quads are not. Do some home work as the Quad may well be good and still not work so you have not eliminated the Quad from the possible problems yet. BarcoServiceBulletin_R762716_New_EHT.pdf (158.02 KB)
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Post by km987654 on Apr 16, 2017 19:51:16 GMT -5
Red LED on EHT board is a scan fail issue. No HV to prevent tube damage. Power off the projector Disconnect blue HV lead and power on again. If Red LED is now not on then you have a problem with the blue tube.
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Post by km987654 on Dec 8, 2016 23:48:09 GMT -5
So with this huge amount of extra light how will blacks look on a UHD HDR capable set? It seems the digital industry is only recently come to terms with real blacks and now they want to push up the brightness 100 times or more.
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Post by km987654 on Dec 6, 2016 3:06:39 GMT -5
I have had my dealings with MP and would never go there again.
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Post by km987654 on Nov 16, 2016 23:23:44 GMT -5
Took the whole set apart, all tubes are out, washed the c-elements, washed out the green because itll be going back in, ill fill the red and green later in the day after a sleep and leave them sit for a few hours to make sure there are no leaks. The blue has not leaked yet after almost 12 hours, so its good to go. What did you use to wash the LC tanks out?
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Post by km987654 on Nov 13, 2016 0:15:31 GMT -5
I havent looked at that yet, cant see it being an issue though. I have 12 complete LC housings here, so i doubt ill ever have a concern with that. When i remove the tubes for swap over i will check that green housing and see how it has held up to the propylene, and i will be refilling it with Ice Clear prior to re-install. The other tubes here are all still filled with original ethylene. Ive ordered two syringes to pump the Ice Clear in with, which should be pretty easy as ive read its thinner than glycol. When i filled my green with the propylene it was a real pain in the arse, and messy. This lead to the aquadag paint coming off the tube bell and i had to rebuild that with copper tape, which did the job quite fine anyway. I prefer to remove the C element and fill tubes that way. Its much easier and no mess.
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Post by km987654 on Oct 21, 2016 20:35:16 GMT -5
Im also looking to get some Ice Clear shipped to me to see if it is as good as those that used it say it is I would be interested in Ice Clear if you manage to get a supplier.
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Post by km987654 on Jul 23, 2016 3:16:02 GMT -5
The first projector I had did not have coloured C elements so I had to add those. If I recall my first impressions correctly the Reds and Greens are far stronger and there is an increase in contrast (apparent or real).
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Post by km987654 on Apr 27, 2016 18:49:31 GMT -5
Does anyone know or even have the last version of the Cine 8 firmware?
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Post by km987654 on Apr 10, 2016 2:52:18 GMT -5
Thats right the pins are reversed between the 8 and 9 inch MEC tubes. I notice the RGB amp is upside down. Since you are building this set you can make room for that as the other two tubes will need to rotate. If they hit the convergence tray cover plate perhaps you can just turn the tubes over so the end stages are the right way up.
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Post by km987654 on Apr 9, 2016 22:00:18 GMT -5
Looking Good.
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