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Post by Decibel on Jun 27, 2015 13:19:16 GMT -5
In you opinion I can try to flash the controller of my no working Cinemax?
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Post by Decibel on Jun 24, 2015 17:27:48 GMT -5
Sell a set of HD180 (HD10-GT26) for large screen. Perfect condition. Preferably in Europe. 200 euro shipping excluded box 30x30x60cm weight 20kg The shipping cost for UE depends of countries, with tracking and insurance, 3 working days Ask in PM. The shipping costs for countries extra europe can be ask in PM.
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Post by Decibel on Jun 24, 2015 4:08:49 GMT -5
A my italian friend can loan to me his boards of his Cinemax for try these into my projector. I'm thinking whole controller tray, then input and driver. Which others?
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Post by Decibel on Jun 24, 2015 3:02:09 GMT -5
At some point i saw the built in remote is not backlit, is it proven to be working? No but I'm afraid that's a sympthom of bad controller. The built in remotes are connected directly at controllers in previous Barco's series. I hope to be wrong.
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Post by Decibel on Jun 24, 2015 2:43:02 GMT -5
Frankly, what I see here is you throwing a bunch of boards at it, not knowing if they are even compatible, then assuming it is the controller with out even doing any testing with your multi meter. What is it you would really like to do? Do you want to trouble shoot it or just keep guessing? I would to fix the issue, obviously I swapped RGB driver board that is compatible and I tried vertical from Cine8 that appear identical at model built in of Cinemax. I checked several resistor named sr1 sr2 ... with multimeter. The projector don't have HT or deflection problems. So, as said several forum's friends here or elsewhere, the issue is located at video chain or controller. I have a multimeter. What I must to do?
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Post by Decibel on Jun 23, 2015 18:31:42 GMT -5
Yes I tried to connect source but I don't able to select input. I tried to swap vertical board also, with a cine 8 spare. No fix and bad noise from SMPS. No one has considered the mystery about no backlight of the fixed remote. All symptoms seems to show a controller failure.
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Post by Decibel on Jun 23, 2015 12:15:26 GMT -5
Checked, no leaks. However I replaced the three caps with new caps, same value. Unfortunately no fix.
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Post by Decibel on Jun 23, 2015 11:55:05 GMT -5
Does the blue tube look like your picture posted here or is that from the camera? Meaning is it a solid blue or like the picture. Like the picture, no solid blue.
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Post by Decibel on Jun 23, 2015 7:34:56 GMT -5
On the bottom of the RGB driver board near the connectors that plug into the main board there are 3 100uf caps. check them. I know this board differs from the 808s but from this part of the circuit appears to be the same. These caps caused the same problem on my 808s including the lit blue tube but not menu or pictures. There is one cap on each 12 volt supply to the output driver transistors for each Red Green and Blue driver stage. I have 2 units and both had all 3 caps leaky. Its a simple check and worth a shot. Thank you gregstv. I tried to swap R7627205 (Cinemax) <---> R762720 (808s) driver board without success. The board of 808s is surely working with 808s
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Post by Decibel on Jun 23, 2015 7:28:16 GMT -5
Since the red led on the vertical board is on there is no vertical sync so that is normal. Red led on switcher is also normal you do not have a source connected. I would try connecting a source and see if you can get the two red led out. Seems the controller is not injecting its menu's so you might not see feedback but still have a picture. If you do not get a picture I would try replacing the RGB driver. I tried to connect source, no result, I can't select input, so the red leds remain lit. I begin to suspect a controller failure
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Post by Decibel on Jun 23, 2015 4:45:35 GMT -5
Finally the jumper schema that can use new style EHT's in new style motherboards (and vice versa). According Barco service bulletin it's possible to use any splitter/eht/quadrupler in new or old style chassis/motherboard. I don't know if can say the name of other forum's admin, however he said that there's only one case of incompatibility. OLD STYLE EHT WITH NEW STYLE QUADRUPLER CAN CAUSE BURN OF QUADRUPLER.All others combinations will work. Below the pictures that show the mod better of thousand of words.
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Post by Decibel on Jun 23, 2015 4:20:18 GMT -5
Other pictures ...
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Post by Decibel on Jun 23, 2015 3:53:20 GMT -5
Hi guys Sorry for language but I live in Italy and I'm not familiar with english language. Well ... finally I have a projector of my dreams, it's a Barco Cinemax. It have a chassis gray and cover blue, gold logo Cine Max. HFQ900 lenses in minty conditions, absolutely no scratch in the bodies or glasses. Previous owner was a crt killer because he placed the projector on the floor under the enormous and heavy wood box. When he wanted to turn the projector, opened a door in front of the tubes Absolutely no air circulation, it's a miracle that the projector never burned. I just bought the projector not working for 1000 euro. I think that the HT chain is good because the tubes show light ... very low light. The blue tube show also a noise with a light more intense than others. But no menu appear. Someone suggest to connect video source but I know that Barco must to show his logo/screen also without sources connect. So I think that the issue is in a video chain. I hope that the issue not in controller. There are red led lit on vertical board and rgb input board.
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