|
Post by jeremy on Oct 13, 2020 11:56:34 GMT -5
Hey everyone!
MT I hope you're still around, and have some insight for me. I have a JVC X590BU here that has a Red | Orange | Red solid LED on the front indicators, they dont blink or go off, they just stay solid red, no clicks or anything in the projector, and it wont do anything else if pressing the power button either.
Now, here's the sticky part - the projector has had water damage, and it appears to have come in near the vent by the HDMI ports. I pulled the main board and sure enough there is corrosion around the HDMI ports, and ethernet port, on the side with the 3 large IC's (which would be facing up towards the ceiling if ceiling mounted, down if floor/desk mounted).
I didn't do any checks with power applied yet, but I did do some checks with the test points on the main board, all but 4 of them have some sort of reading, the 4 that do not are right under the corroded HDMI ports. Now I don't know 100% if this is why the projector refuses to do anything, but its a start I hope.
What I guess I am requesting is guidance on where to check for voltages that would indicate what part and component is having the issue in the projector. I don't *think* its a ballast or power supply, they appear to be untouched from the water, but im not sure if something fed back to them from the mainboard due to the corrosion or not.
Any assistance would be helpful MT, like I said, I'm not so much looking to be able to repair it (dead main IC for example) as much as I am looking to find out IF it is an IC or something minor.
Thanks for your time!
Jeremy
|
|
|
Post by jeremy on Jul 7, 2018 20:43:57 GMT -5
So I've had my beautiful Sony G90 safely esconced in my basement since I got it from Nashou (a couple years ago? not sure anymore). I've done the same as him and had it plugged in and in standby since having it, and only fired it up once to make sure it still worked after moving it, which it worked perfectly. Yesterday I walked past it and saw the code display on the rear say "88", I flipped the main power rocker off, let it sit for a few seconds, flipped it back on, and it went back into normal standby. Today, it has the same issue, only this time I just flipped it off, since I had an odd feeling this wasn't good. I did the ole google search and came up with the results from "the other site" indicating this is the infamous YA Board failure, which was the odd feeling I had! So I haven't used it since this has happened, I don't want to ruin the projector, I haven't even gotten a chance to enjoy it yet... Is this repairable at all, or do I have to replace the YA board? I'll admit I've never really paid any attention to any of the G90 stuff because I never owned one, and even after getting this one, didn't really worry about it too much... (yeah my bad I know) So what's the scoop CRT master Guru's?
|
|
|
Post by jeremy on Mar 1, 2018 14:09:07 GMT -5
Thanks Jeremy for your input. I have to mention, that I have removed the blue LCD. That is a no no? You are saying, that my issues with the 2D not displaying, is a mainboard issue? Yes, removing the LCD is a HUGE no no. As you can see in your own screenshot the panel is not aligned with the other 2, and there is no way to align it in the projector, it can only be done at the factory. As for your mainboard, yes, likely the mainboard has a faulty component, or it is possible that the firmware is even corrupted on it as well, it is sadly somewhat common on Epson projectors.
|
|
|
Post by jeremy on Feb 28, 2018 12:00:04 GMT -5
It's getting worse because the glue on the LCD panels mount is failing from repeatedly being worked on. I can see the blue LCD is misconverged on your projector, as well as having a weird hue in the blacks of the projected image. You can clearly tell this was someone elses project that failed miserably. I wouldn't even waste time with it, since the convergence cannot be redone unless it gets sent back to the factory, and there is an obvious mainboard failure. On an Epson, a mainboard failure is NOT worth repairing, it will just occur again. The yellow tint you see is li,kely one of the LCD panels or polarizers failing, which is a **very** common problem on Epson projectors. There is a reason you only paid $20 from the service center you got it from, and that's because they knew it was shot. At best it's a parts machine, and I wouldn't even use it for that unless you needed a ballast or a power supply for a known good displaying 3020e. Here it is, the Info page: I also have an issue, that the right side has a blue "shadow". If I adjust the blue LCD ribbon, to go away, the next time I restart the projector, it comes back. The more I remove the ribbons, the worst are getting. There is nothing that I can grab, to handle them. I couldn't do anything else with the 2D. I'm trying to find a remote for it. There is one on Ebay, for the 3020, which doesn't have the wireless HDMI feature. I have made an offer for it, and now I'm waiting to hear from the seller. I don't have the wireless transmitter, anyway.
|
|
|
Post by jeremy on Nov 29, 2017 16:42:04 GMT -5
Correct
|
|
|
Post by jeremy on Nov 29, 2017 13:05:28 GMT -5
It doesn't throw a different error. In fact, it acts exactly the same, with the exception that the lamp doesn't light up. All other behavior is identical otherwise. Interesting...
|
|
|
Post by jeremy on Nov 28, 2017 21:51:32 GMT -5
IC4891 has 3.298vdc+ on pin 1,
IC8311 Pin 3 shows 0mv before power, goes up to almost 400mv+ during power, slowly goes down when projector shuts down from error.
IC8811 Pin 3 shows 0mv before power, goes up to almost 200mv+ during power, slowly goes down when projector shuts down from error.
Checked it a few times to make sure it repeated, this is what happened during 4 checks.
|
|
|
Post by jeremy on Nov 28, 2017 15:34:49 GMT -5
Ok sorry I'm so slow at testing this stuff out for ya MT IC8831 readings - All voltages are positive (before and during/after): --BEFORE-- --AFTER-- Pin 1: 3.1v - 3.1v Pin 2: 3.1v - 3.1v Pin 3: 0v --- 0.57v Pin 4: GND - GND Pin 5: 0v --- 0v Pin 6: 0v --- 0v Pin 7: 3.2v - 3.2v Pin 8: 3.2v - 3.2v IC8811 readings - All positive voltages (before and during/after power on): --BEFORE-- --AFTER-- Pin 1: 3.2v - 3.2v Pin 2: 3.2v - 3.2v Pin 3: 0 ---- 1v - 0.57v (The before reading goes from zero to 1 volt every 2-3 seconds, stays stable during/after power on) Pin 4: GND - GND Pin 5: 0v --- 0v Pin 6: 3.3v - 3.3v Pin 7: 0v --- 0v Pin 8: 3.3v - 3.3v IC8811 is on the front remote control sensor board as well, took a while to locate that one. Also, IC4891 and the area within 1 centimeter of it looks like it has excess flux on it, while the rest of the board (both sides) has absolutely none. It looks like someone probed IC4891 a few times and may have replaced it as well, but I'm not 100% sure. Edit: This is from the SM regarding the IC4891 and fans: "An abnormality occurs on the fan control circuit; If one of the fans FN001, FN002, FN003, FN004, FN005 has an error, the FAN_ERR and P_FAIL signals become "L". If the FAN_ERR signal becomes "L", the lamp switch signal output from IC4891 becomes "H" to stop the operation of the lamp ballast circuit.."
|
|
|
Post by jeremy on Nov 23, 2017 12:35:39 GMT -5
I did a blend this summer in the garage for a rummage sale, used 2 XGA projectors , a Matrox DualHead2Go, and Vioso Anyblend. Here's what it looked like after about an hour of setup: Screenshot: Projectors used:
|
|
|
Post by jeremy on Nov 21, 2017 23:24:49 GMT -5
One of the 8 pin ICs is on the top of the mainboard. I believe the other one is on the bottom. They are small, but I should be able to solder some wires to the pins and then I can clip my test leads to them and make it easier to check. I'll get back to you with my findings once I've done that Oh, FWIW... the lamp I pulled out of this projector when I got it was a genuine OSRAM, looks to be either brand new, or possibly the original lamp the projector came with, but the mercury chamber itself has a few cracks, and the lamp doesn't work at all. I have a new one in it so I can test it, but I just thought I'd tell you the condition of the old lamp, since that may help diagnose.
|
|
|
Post by jeremy on Nov 21, 2017 14:04:11 GMT -5
So I have one of my more interesting repairs here I need some help with. I have a Panasonic PT-LW25HU that "works" for a couple of seconds, then shuts down. I'll better explain: Press power > Standby Indicator switches from blinking red to solid green > fans spin up, ballast ignites lamp, everything works for about 2 seconds > shuts down > Standby/on Indicator blinking red (Can repeat this over and over) So, User AND service manual both say if the Standby/ON indicator is blinking (no other indicators blinking) that the fans are cooling down the projector and the projector will not power on again until the standby/ON indicator is **SOLID RED** The issue is, it is NEVER solid red, not even after being plugged in, it just blinks red when I plug it in until I power it up, then it shuts off, and starts blinking red again. The warning and lamp indicator do nothing. I checked all the fans, they aren't the issue (used one from a diff PJ to test). Checked the voltages going to the fans, they are correct (right on the money even). So I am left with possible bad thermal sensors (which are 8 pin ICs surface mounted to the mainboard), or a PSU/possible ballast issue, and the indicators are just not indicating correctly... The service manual is full and detailed (reminiscent of a Sanyo SM), so with some help I am hoping I can get this barely used projector to work.
|
|
|
Post by jeremy on Sept 1, 2017 10:20:46 GMT -5
Got a Panasonic PT-RZ470U Laser hybrid projector here, works fine, except it has 2 issues. First problem: It's a 3500 lumen projector. It currently has less brightness than a 1000 lumen HT PJ. Second issue: the brightness flickers in intensity. Now there's different modes and all that too of course for "cinema, living room" etc...
Switching to the dimmer modes makes the picture turn somewhat magenta of a tint. I feel this is related to the dimness issue as well.
Now there's nothing in the service menu to tweak the brightness. But I believe I saw in the service manual (or somewhere else) that this can be adjusted, a setting called "Drive current" for the laser light engine. This setting can only be altered though, using the Panasonic service software that I obviously cannot get.
So, taking that ability out of the equation, is it possible this can be fixed with servicing the laser/LED ballast or PSU? Obviously something must be weak for it to be flickering and so dim. The laser phosphor wheel looks perfect, and the LEDs and laser diodes do too. The projector has 8600 hours out of an expected 20,000 hour lifespan on the laser engine.
Also, since the brightness flickers evenly in intensity/color, (it gets dimmer as a whole, not just green or red or blue), I don't believe its the laser diodes or LEDs that are the issue, since the color stays the exact same, it just gets a bit dimmer when it flickers, which is all the time.
Any help would be appreciated, I know it's a long shot since the projector is fairly new.
|
|
|
Post by jeremy on Jun 28, 2017 19:12:55 GMT -5
Ok I am just an information forwarder... But in the meantime with the help of the local Barco distributor he got the super secret service code so he could set the color wheel phase angle, the machine projects a nice image now. There is still some issue with the projector though, but that does not affect the actual picture pleasure: no outside communication is working in the unit: no response from the remote, no response from the RS-232, and neither from the LAN, odd. My friend lives quite close to me so sooner or later I want to check it out, as it is said this projector can have 7500:1 on off contrast with iris closed up, that is something worth to check. No to mention we will aim to try the newest generation of vibrating mirror (quasi UHD) device with this projector (this guy already have a vibrating mirror device in front of his 720P 3 chip DLP DPI TITAN projector, running at virtual 1440P resolution). Maybe I can get back with the service code later as well. PS. My friend got a backup cineo as well in the meantime, which works without an issue Very nice to hear gjaky! It's great that Barco is willing to support these projectors like that. You'd be surprised how many companies will say no, simply because you are not the original purchaser. They do have a beautiful image, I have several of those here as well (many made under various models, the "Cineo" is the HT market version). You can get that 7500:1 CR, but at the expense of its glorious brightness with both lamps on, and color properly calibrated. Still, for HT, Its a beast of a machine. It just doesn't have the "inky blacks" that so many worry about. If you would be able to provide the code, that would be ***really*** awesome of you! I can't tell you off hand why the communication stuff wouldn't be working off hand. My guess is whatever caused the color wheel index (which is the phase angle you speak of) to reset, probably reset those functions as well in the Service menu. Not sure, but not unlikely either.
|
|
|
Post by jeremy on Jun 27, 2017 13:46:57 GMT -5
Also if it "forgot" its memory, then the battery on the mainboard may have died. I'm pretty sure it has a battery, a lot of PD projectors do.
|
|
|
Post by jeremy on Jun 27, 2017 13:45:43 GMT -5
A friend of mine got this DLP projector. It seems the projector lost all of its setup memory, ie it shows 1 hour of lamp time, but what is worse it seems it forgot the phase angle setting for the color wheel as well, can anyone help how to access the service menu? Hey gjaky, What do you mean when you say "Phase angle"? The service menu can be accessed by going through the user menu to an option that should say "Service" which after selecting service should prompt you for a 4 digit password. You must be careful when entering the password, you get 3 tries, and if you fail to correctly enter it, will lock out the service menu, which can then only be accessed by a unique code given to you over the phone by Barco (who owns PD now), if you are the original owner and have proof of being so. As for the code itself, I don't know it off hand. I myself had to access the service menu for a Christie variant of this projector, and was lucky enough to come across the service manual which I don't have anymore. If you can get the service manual, you can get into the service menu. Sorry I couldn't be of more help gjaky! If you guys wanna get rid of that projector I would be willing to pay shipping & packing costs + what you think is fair for the PJ itself, should you guys not have any luck. (I could always use PD/Barco DLP PJ parts machines!) Good luck, let me know if you do figure it out (I would be interested in knowing the code myself )
|
|