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Post by jeremy on Jul 18, 2016 21:59:35 GMT -5
Okay MT, finally got some time to do this tonight. I put the new crystal on the mainboard, as well as the new resistor (some crafty and wicked looking solder work I might add, and by wicked I mean I was lucky to get the damaged foils to solder back to the crystal), and the projector is now functioning 100% perfectly!! See pic below showing it running! Thanks for your help MT, though I know you didn't have to participate too much on this one, but someone to bounce ideas off of always helps!
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Post by jeremy on Jul 7, 2016 17:17:02 GMT -5
Okay, well I can finally update on this! The working one came in yesterday, and I opened it today and removed the mainboard. The missing crystal I need is 27.0000MHz, and the missing surface mount resistor is 110K ohms. I've ordered the 2 parts (got a 10 pack of crystals, was only $4) so now I just wait until they arrive. Hopefully these 2 missing pieces are all that's keeping it from working. At the very least, nothing will be broke off anymore Also, thats a good suggestion MT, (which I could have tried of course). I'll keep that in mind the next time I have a similar issue to this. I can't expect to find doubles of everything all the time
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Post by jeremy on Jun 25, 2016 14:44:10 GMT -5
MT, Just wanted to update on this. I have not been able to trace back where the missing crystal goes (it goes to a lead that runs to the other side of the board and there is a part over that area so I cannot see where it comes from after that) BUT! We are not out of luck yet. I happen to be getting another one of these in (working, and 100% identical this time ) so I should be able to pull the board out and identify the parts. The projector will be here late next week/early the week after, so I will let you know around then what I have found
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Post by jeremy on Jun 14, 2016 11:41:19 GMT -5
wow. Nothing loose shaking around in the projector? If you can id the ic that the crystal goes to and if there is a data sheet on it we may be able to determine those parts. No, nothing loose inside the projector when tipping it upside down and shaking it, so my guess is whoever broke the parts off in the first place is likely the one who cleaned them out too. I will try to locate the IC and see what I can come up with.
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Post by jeremy on Jun 14, 2016 10:53:05 GMT -5
Well, my sureness bit me in the ass it would seem! The power connector is repaired and went pretty smooth, but it still wouldnt come out of standby. I pulled the mainboard out again and this time I noticed something else (Look at the center of the photo) : There are pieces broken off the back of the mainboard, which I am *mostly positive* is the cause of the problem. Now I looked at my good board and they are almost identical except for some of the circuit design. (They physically can be swapped between projectors but they are slightly different variants and as a result not 100% identical. [Good board does not have HDMI, bad board does) I could probably repair it if I knew what the missing crystal frequency was, and the missing micro capacitor/resistor is. Without the SM or a 100% identical board I don't have a clue.
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Post by jeremy on Jun 13, 2016 21:56:43 GMT -5
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Post by jeremy on Jun 13, 2016 21:08:39 GMT -5
Already have an update, and 99% reason why this PJ wont work. I didn't notice this the first time swapping the board, but I wasnt really looking around.
There's a power connector like a mini ATX Motherboard PSU connector on the DMD board, the connector pins are pulled right off the solder pads and only one is holding it on yet. I only noticed it now because I bumped the wire and saw the connector move. I'll post a pic of it shortly.
I don't think the mainboard was the issue at all though now after seeing this. It's quite likely it was ready to break off when I put the other mainboard in and got the PJ to fire up. Must have just been held on enough to make it work intermittent, but its not held on enough anymore!
Always something new!
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Post by jeremy on Jun 13, 2016 21:00:41 GMT -5
Can you post a nice clear picture of both sides of the main board? Sure can, sorry about the delay, this weekend was pretty busy. I got the projector partially taken apart right now so I'll get a pic of the mainboard shortly. It's not in an easy to access place (mainboard is the back button/input panel as well)
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Post by jeremy on Jun 10, 2016 16:31:54 GMT -5
Have you opened it up yet? Have you thought about downloading the control software and seeing if you could get it to connect? Yep - I opened it and swapped in a mainboard from another one identical to it that I have here (working) and it works fine with the working PJs mainboard, just not its own. And yep - if you are referring to the control software that was on the support page for this PJ, I did download it, but it did not work (even after carefully repeating the steps to get it to work) This was the LAN control that I am referring to. I have not tried with RS232 (have no idea how to go about that without a PC that has RS232...)
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Post by jeremy on Jun 10, 2016 0:37:29 GMT -5
Ok, there is the problem. You are using color descriptions that do not exist. You must indicate colors based on what the manual states. otherwise, I have no idea. Second, I have to assume you are talking about the "status" light. You did not indicate this either. Again, you must be more accurate in your description. LOL Now based on how I am reading the manual, it will only go into DPMS mode if: 1) DPMS is set to on, and 2) there is no input signal when set to on. Have you tried connecting an input device, have it running and then plug it in? Next, manual indicates when first plugged in, "status" light should blink yellow for app. 10-15 seconds and then become solid yellow. Is this what it does? Yes I see I made several errors in my posts, my bad I was referring to the status LED I connected my computer via DVI cable and it did detect the projector, but the projector was still in standby, would not power up. And yes, when plugging in the power cord, the status light blinks and then becomes solid yellow. That is the extent of life from this projector. Also, I can connect a ethernet cable to it, and the LEDs on the ethernet plug light up and blink, so it connects, but its IP address is not the same as my network, and obviously unless I get it to turn on, I cannot change that setting. So ethernet is useless
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Post by jeremy on Jun 9, 2016 20:53:25 GMT -5
Please clarify this. I am not seeing is description in the manual. The manual says: "Permanant Yellow Light (Which its more of an orange/amber in real life): The unit is in standby mode; no sources connected; or the sources connected are inactive/switched off, thereby activating the power-save functions (DPMS). You may enable or disable the power-save function in the SET UP sub menu, DPMS on or off." Which is exactly what it is doing, sitting in standby laughing at me Now another part of the manual says any buttons not illuminated on the unit itself are deactivated. If that's true, then all the buttons on the projector will not operate. I suspect the possibility the projector may be "locked" with a PIN number. Unfortunately, the manual does not tell you how to enter the PIN while the projector is in standby, or how to power it up if its in this locked standby mode. I have the default PIN which will probably work, but again, not sure how im supposed to enter it while the projector is off and unable to be powered on? I'll be honest, I haven't wasted my time contacting DP about it, as I'm sure they will want to verify I'm the original purchaser (which of course I'm not... when this stuff comes in as surplus you are SOL...), and then say they can't help me because I don't have proof of ownership *eyeroll* Like I said, if I can get these damn things to power on, they should work (verified the rest of the components work by swapping mainboards from a working unit), and I doubt the mainboards themselves are bad.
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Post by jeremy on Jun 9, 2016 11:42:16 GMT -5
Got this projector as well as another DP PJ that have the same issue. Both have solid amber/orange standby LEDs upon plugging them in, the user manuals say they are ready to power up in that state, but pressing power on the PJ does nothing, nor do any of the other buttons. It just sits there in standby. The same goes for when using the remote (I do not have the original, but I do have a Harmony 1000 that has the codes for them), it does nothing to the projector.
Since these are rather high end, information is limited for what I could find. I'm wondering if theres something I am not doing? Any help appreciated! (These should work once I get them to power up)
Edit: I would just like to update and let everyone know the projector is now working. After replacing the missing crystal & resistor on the mainboard, the projector is once again working perfectly!! (See last post for screenshot)
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Post by jeremy on May 8, 2016 9:09:15 GMT -5
Well I think the first thing to do is check the 2 internal thermostats. On page 63 of the manual you will find the location of these 2 thermostats. I need to know how many connections these things have. You can also see where they connect to the main board on page 12, connectors 14 and 21. How many wires do these 2 connectors have? Each connector has 4 wires, connector 21 has 5 pins but the actual wire going to it has only 4 connections (Black, Brown, Orange, Red) This is actually where I left off so great place to start
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Post by jeremy on Apr 16, 2016 9:30:29 GMT -5
Just wanted to quickly update this, this projector has been repaired. The colorwheel indeed was bad. Replaced with a new one and it works fine. I'd also like to add that if you have a similar model to this one or this model, that it could easily be several other boards in this projector, I have had these models run me around the entire internals over something as simple as lamps shutting down because the projector "thinks" they are bad. So I won't guarantee this to be a fix for everyone out there that has the 3 amber standby LED blinks, but its definitely possible.
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Post by jeremy on Apr 16, 2016 9:27:55 GMT -5
So I've had this Sanyo PDG-DWT10L Sitting here for a while with thoughts of whats keeping it from working. Its problem is: Plug it in, goes through its quick pre-power-on boot-up, press power to turn it on, projector powers on, both lamps (new by the way, and tested with a diff pair of known working lamps) light up, and an image is projected for anywhere from 15-45 seconds. The projector then shuts down with 2x warning blinking indicating in the user & Service manual that its a temperature/overheating error. The errors LEDs are pretty specific in that the SM says the 2x repeated blinks is a thermal sensor error and not fans and so forth. The problem is, there is really no way for me to identify which sensor is triggering the detection circuit to shutdown the projector. If I could hook up the RS232 to a PC I could run a diagnostic on it and it would indeed tell me what specific sensor is triggering the error, but the projector does not stay on long enough for me to configure RS232 so I have no way to get that far. So point being, I need help! lol. This projector is identical to the NEC NP4001, and both the NEC/Sanyo variants also have XGA versions (PDG-DXT10L & NP4000) The service manual for the NEC variants is not available, but both Sanyo Variants are available from ET. Any help at all would be appreciated since this thing is a block of electronics (not the easest to work on, but doable with some patience )
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