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Post by Joe Napier on May 29, 2014 20:40:41 GMT -5
Thanks mrtech for the help. I have followed the steps and have the following differences. The voltage output from the 20 and 30 amp breaker were both 3.9 VDC. I was not sure what you meant by the 50 amp socket. I do not see that term on the electrical schematic. When I disconnected the junction lug to the third terminal on the VR, the voltage output from the 20 and 30 amp breaker was still about 3.9 VDC. I jumpered the coach battery to the third connector on the VR and the voltage output at the 20/30 amp breaker jumped to 80 - 100 something volts. I measured the resistance of both wires to ground on the third terminal of the VR and the once closest to 16 ohms was 21 ohms. During starting, the voltage to the wires normally connected to the third terminal measured 0.5 volts and went to zero. This was the case for when the two wires were connected to each other and when they weren't connected to each other. In both cases, the lead were disconnected from the VR.
I would certainly appreciate any further advice on trouble shooting. Thanks:)
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Post by RVspecialist on May 30, 2014 21:01:14 GMT -5
When testing power output at the breakers your DMM should be on AC voltage. But I think you were if you got 80-100 volts when sending power to the 1 wire. I do not see where you are getting the needed 10 VDC at the 1 wire connected to VR pin 3 when cranking. One of those 2 wires connects to the controller and then the starter. Do a diode test from the 1 wire to the starter relay, switching leeds to see if you have flow and then don't.
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Post by Bryce on Jun 16, 2014 21:07:42 GMT -5
When testing power output at the breakers your DMM should be on AC voltage. But I think you were if you got 80-100 volts when sending power to the 1 wire. I do not see where you are getting the needed 10 VDC at the 1 wire connected to VR pin 3 when cranking. One of those 2 wires connects to the controller and then the starter. Do a diode test from the 1 wire to the starter relay, switching leeds to see if you have flow and then don't. Hello not trying to steal this thread but I have a genrac q 55g model 09592-3 and what it is doing is on the dmm gives me 160 volts ac(at the breakers), then cuts out then back on at same voltage three times and then when it finally cuts back on it then stays at 120 volts ac. Any ideas on this one? Thanks so much for your time Bryce
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Post by RVspecialist on Jun 17, 2014 9:11:20 GMT -5
Are you testing across both breakers at the same time or 1 breaker at a time with your negative probe on ground?
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Post by Bryce on Jun 17, 2014 18:43:59 GMT -5
Are you testing across both breakers at the same time or 1 breaker at a time with your negative probe on ground? Across each breaker on the input side to ground on the breaker. Thanks
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Post by RVspecialist on Jun 19, 2014 8:03:26 GMT -5
I still don't quite get what you are saying but if you were to test at an outlet and it cycles at the 160v volt there, then you definitely have a regulator problem. Replacement would be required.
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Post by Bryce on Jun 26, 2014 7:33:26 GMT -5
I still don't quite get what you are saying but if you were to test at an outlet and it cycles at the 160v volt there, then you definitely have a regulator problem. Replacement would be required.
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Post by Peter on May 25, 2015 14:47:50 GMT -5
Had a long interest in this subject as mine is not putting out power, and the dealer believed it was the voltage regulator....who am I to argue. So befor I go buy one I did your first test. But I have a hard wired genset. So I put the tester on the breakers. After checking them both for continuity . Alls well. The voltage was 2.1 with genset running and no led on?? what next
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Post by RVspecialist on May 25, 2015 15:59:24 GMT -5
Did you check the circuit breaker as posted earlier?
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Post by Mikeoj on Jul 30, 2015 9:07:24 GMT -5
i am at the same point with my generator. When testing the wires from the VR, not connected to the VR while starting. I have up to 14VDC briefly, then down to zero once running. Any further help is appreciated. Thanks!
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Post by JerryP on Sept 20, 2015 15:51:57 GMT -5
I hope RVspecialist is still around.
We have a 1998 National Tropical 5360 and I am having problems with our Generac Q55G - it does not start (no spark). It was running a few months ago, then on our last trip out it would not start.
I have done some tracing down using the Diagnostic and Repair Manual, but have not resolved the problem.
The red light on the voltage regulator flashes as I crank the generator. The starter solenoid also is going bad, so I am using a screw driver to jump the solenoid to crank it. I want to make sure the generator will run again before I replace the starter solenoid.
Thanks,
Jerry
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Post by JerryP on Sept 20, 2015 16:23:33 GMT -5
I hope RVspecialist is still around. We have a 1998 National Tropical 5360 and I am having problems with our Generac Q55G - it does not start (no spark). It was running a few months ago, then on our last trip out it would not start. I have done some tracing down using the Diagnostic and Repair Manual, but have not resolved the problem. The red light on the voltage regulator flashes as I crank the generator. The starter solenoid also is going bad, so I am using a screw driver to jump the solenoid to crank it. I want to make sure the generator will run again before I replace the starter solenoid. Thanks, Jerry I forgot to add where I am at this time. Before I found this site I had already jumped 12 volts from the battery lead terminal on the starter solenoid to that terminal on the voltage regular and the red light blinks ... then finally started and ran for 5 minutes or so before I bumped the choke and it shut off (or shut off on its own) ... then refused to start again (whether or not I jump 12 volts to that terminal on the voltage regular. The terminal on the 15 pin plug which feeds the field and the voltage regular does not have much voltage on it while cranking (I think it was 2-3 volts, the manual says it should have 'battery voltage' on it). I am encouraged that it started (should be a good sign ... or it may be an intermittent problem) but cautiously optimistic because it will not restart.
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Post by RVspecialist on Sept 20, 2015 19:15:35 GMT -5
Yes I am still around. Just not much going on in this section, lol.
So lets see. First I need the model number of your generator so i know exactly what you have. Should be 9 thousand something dash something.
Second, do you have a 12v test light or a digital volt meter or both?
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Post by JerryP on Sept 21, 2015 7:54:44 GMT -5
I have several 12 v test lights and several DMM, along with other voltage testers.
The model number is a good question as there is a sticker on the generator which has '93427' (no dash number) but I am sure that is not the model number - I think the model number is likely either a 9592-1, 9593-2, or a 9735-1 based on the Q55 series model numbers I can find. I presume the "G" in Q55G indicates "gas" as the fuel type (it is gas fueled).
Where do I find the nameplate with the model number on it? I either keep looking at it and missing it (that old saying 'If it was a rattle snake it would have bitten me.' and I'm just not hearing its rattle) or cannot I simply have not found it yet.
According to the Generac Diagnostic and Repair Manual I have, the wiring diagram is 92116.
I checked for spark using my DC powered timing light and nothing. (obviously, there was spark when it ran briefly).
Thank you in advance for all help and insight you can provide,
Jerry
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Post by JerryP on Sept 21, 2015 9:18:30 GMT -5
I have several 12 v test lights and several DMM, along with other voltage testers. The model number is a good question as there is a sticker on the generator which has '93427' (no dash number) but I am sure that is not the model number - I think the model number is likely either a 9592-1, 9593-2, or a 9735-1 based on the Q55 series model numbers I can find. I presume the "G" in Q55G indicates "gas" as the fuel type (it is gas fueled). Where do I find the nameplate with the model number on it? I either keep looking at it and missing it (that old saying 'If it was a rattle snake it would have bitten me.' and I'm just not hearing its rattle) or cannot I simply have not found it yet. According to the Generac Diagnostic and Repair Manual I have, the wiring diagram is 92116. I checked for spark using my DC powered timing light and nothing. (obviously, there was spark when it ran briefly). Thank you in advance for all help and insight you can provide, Jerry Okay, I just went out to get set up and started on the generator and the nameplate rattled and jumped out and bit me - the model number is 09592-3, serial number 3047782, engine rpm 2570, watts 5500, 120/240 volts (currently configured for 120 volts), 45.8/22.9 amps, generator rpm 3600. Also thought that I would mention that, when the generator was running briefly, the red LED on the voltage regulator was red (not flashing as it did when cranking). Jerry
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