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Post by secretagent69 on Aug 1, 2013 10:32:19 GMT -5
Generator was working fine. Then just stopped putting out power, I checked all breakers, They are fine. What can I do??
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Post by RVspecialist on Aug 1, 2013 12:22:51 GMT -5
Do you have a DMM and know how to use it? Also, is there a transfer switch or just a plug for main power?
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Post by secretagent69 on Aug 1, 2013 20:00:39 GMT -5
Yes I have a DMM and know it well. There is a 50 amp plug for connection to the generator.
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Post by RVspecialist on Aug 2, 2013 9:28:50 GMT -5
Where the breakers are there is a cover with 4 screws where the electronics are behind. Remove that cover and mounter on the generator there is an electronic box with a red LED and an adjustment screw. That is the voltage regulator. Start the generator and see if that red LED is on.
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Post by secretagent69 on Aug 2, 2013 17:48:05 GMT -5
Ok. I pulled the cover and started it up. The red lED is not on. What next?  |
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Post by RVspecialist on Aug 2, 2013 18:57:18 GMT -5
Get your DMM and connect it to your 50 amp socket, 1 probe in one of the 120 volt lines and the other probe in the neutral. Make sure the breakers are on. Start it up and see if you get around 5 to 10 volts.
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Post by secretagent69 on Aug 3, 2013 12:31:30 GMT -5
Yes, I get around 5.5 to 6 volts.
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Post by RVspecialist on Aug 4, 2013 20:06:20 GMT -5
Just below the voltage regulator near the left side there is a small box with 2 wires connected to it. This is a circuit breaker. You need to test it for continuity with your DMM. It should test short, like a fuse does.
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Post by secretagent69 on Aug 5, 2013 11:14:44 GMT -5
The breaker test ok. It shows continuity.
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Post by RVspecialist on Aug 6, 2013 11:35:16 GMT -5
At this point I think we should do a fixed excitation test and see what you get.
Hook up your DMM again to the 50 amp outlet like you did in the last test where you got the 5.5 to 6 volts.
Now on the voltage regulator find the 3rd wire from the top, it should have 2 wires connected to an adapter and then that adapter is connected to the regulator. Pull the adapter off the regulator leaving both wires connected to it.
Now you need a test wire with alligator clips on both ends. Connect 1 clip to this adapter and leave the other end hang for now.
Start the generator and see if you still have your 5.5 to 6 volts. If you do then while it is running take the other test clip and clip it to the starter solenoid on the battery + terminal. The will send 12v directly to the rotor windings. Now look at your DMM and see what your voltage is. It should be at least 55 volts up to maybe 75 or 80. Once you get the reading remove the test clip and shut it down. Don't leave it run to long connected. Just long enough to get the reading.
Post back what you get.
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Post by secretagent69 on Aug 9, 2013 10:06:03 GMT -5
Ok, it took me a while to figure this out but I did the test and I got around 68 volts. I guess that's what I was suppose to get?
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Post by RVspecialist on Aug 9, 2013 11:33:41 GMT -5
Yes, that's good. Connect that adapter back on to the voltage regulator but leave the alligator wire still connected. But now connect the other end of the test wire to the positive lead of your DMM. Connect the negative DMM to a good ground on the motor, probably where the ground cable from the battery connects to. Set your DMM to DC volts.
Now watch you DMM while you crank the engine. Depending on how fast the motor starts will determine how much voltage you will read but it should be at least 8 to 12 volts. Once it starts and is no longer cranking it will drop to zero volts. See what you get.
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Post by secretagent69 on Aug 20, 2013 14:57:46 GMT -5
Well I thought I should post back what I found. While doing this test there was no voltage to that pin on the regulator. I followed the wire back to the controller and then found that the power to the controller comes from the starter solenoid. I check for continuity from the solenoid to the controller and showed open. So I took the nut off the solenoid and found the connector of that wire was corroded. I cleaned it off good and the other connecting parts and reassembled. I now showed continuity. I cranked up the generator and it is working fine again. I got lucky this time I guess and no parts we needed. Thanks for the help. I could not of found this without assistance and saved a ton of money besides.
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Post by SteveH on Sept 6, 2013 22:59:37 GMT -5
I have the same genny in my MH and also, unfortunately, have the same problem. Made a 1200 mi trip without my air cond. Anyway, I'm searching the internet for others with this problem. Haven't had much detailed info until I opened this on my search. MRTech appears to be very knowledgeable regarding this subject. Now the thread stopped because a simple problem was found. But I'm just starting to troubleshoot. I'd appreciate it if MRTech would continue as if the problem was not found. I've started by checking the ohms of the stator windings and checking the power to the circuit breakers. I will check the power windings tomorrow. I have no power and the light is out on my VR. Please tell me more, MRTech. I think it is the voltage regulator, but not sure. Is there an easy way to check out for sure if its the VR or not? Any other things you can teach on this would be appreciated. The unit runs real good.
Thanks,
SteveH
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Post by RVspecialist on Sept 7, 2013 8:20:08 GMT -5
On your VR, the 3rd contact down there are 2 wires connected to that 1 tab. Remove both of the wire so you can test them separately. Connect the neg probe of your DMM to ground and set it to resistance. 1 of those wires will give you a reading which should be around 16 ohms. Give me that reading. Then set your DMM to DC voltage, attach your pos probe to the other wire you disconnected and crank the engine. While cranking you should get around 8 to 10 volts. What do you get?
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