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Post by mastertech on Feb 23, 2015 10:12:24 GMT -5
Good thing you got spareparts. Swap EHT, quad and splitter one by one to find the culprit. Yes, a 909 controller will have less features than a Cine 9/Max regarding picture tunning. Not something to worry about. The only downside is that the Cine 9/Max has a software limitation for the maximum scan frequency, to be able to run the fans at slower speed. So it could be that when puting a 909 controller in a Cine 9, it won't be so silent anymore or you'll get a fan fail message. If someone needs the latest Cine 9 bin files to flash the soft. let me know. Hi Hulio. Welcome. |
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Feb 23, 2015 18:35:16 GMT -5
Only on the original controller, the one from the 909 runs fine with no issues.
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Post by mastertech on Feb 23, 2015 19:16:49 GMT -5
Ok, sounds like the controller. And you said when it shuts down you had to wait around 5 minutes or so until it would turn on again?
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Feb 23, 2015 20:34:52 GMT -5
No itll turn on straight away, but usually shuts straight back off again, but if i wait five minutes on standby or even unplugged itll run for a fair bit longer.
By jumper setting the KEEP SMPS ON pins, the set looks like its running all the time, but you need to press the on button to make the image come up ( that part is normal ), the machine still has the same issue, but as long as the SMPS is forced on the image stays there, however all functions of the controller act as though the set is in standby mode.
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Post by mastertech on Feb 23, 2015 22:03:27 GMT -5
Ok. I still think it sounds like a thermal issue, something happening on that controller when it gets hot. Do you have access to a thermal camera? What series Iphone do you have?
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Feb 24, 2015 3:17:41 GMT -5
I have an iphone 5 here mate.
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Post by mastertech on Feb 24, 2015 10:07:48 GMT -5
I have an iphone 5 here mate. The cheapest thermal camera I found was an adapter for the iphone 5 or 5c. store.apple.com/us/product/HG362LL/A/flir-one-thermal-imagerStill not cheap though. Generally when I have something heat related I run the unit and feel around for anything running real hot. But I don't think you can get to the board with it running in this case. And you don't have any extenders to connect the tray outside the projector, correct? The other option is to power up the controller, disconnected and outside the projector. Do you have an external power supply of any type? |
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Post by hulio on Feb 24, 2015 13:05:27 GMT -5
Thanks. @ Casse: Do you have another horizontal deflection board to try ? ( R763140 ). It is the hotest card in the system and from temperature differences, solder points get loose very often. |
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Feb 24, 2015 14:45:10 GMT -5
No way for me to power it up outside the machine no. I reckon the heatsink on the controller board does get very hot, seemed a lot hotter than the 909 controller.
I have swapped the horizontal board, but that made no difference, and the set stays on fine with the 909 controller.
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Post by mastertech on Feb 24, 2015 16:05:22 GMT -5
Well if that heatsink is hotter on the bad controller then you have a regulator running hot. This is what needs to be confirmed. And a thermal image camera would be handy for this. Can you pull that tray out fast enough after it has run for a while and feel for a regulator that is real hot?
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Feb 24, 2015 19:44:28 GMT -5
Yep, i can do that, if i pull the tray out as soon as it shuts down it should still be hot.
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Post by gjaky on Feb 25, 2015 2:51:03 GMT -5
I don't know why would need a thermal camera just for that. If that regulator feels hotter then it probably really is. That would mean the regulated side draws more current than on the 909 board. You can check a few things:
-What resistance do you measure (if any) accross the output pin of that regulator and the ground, is there any difference between the cine9 and 909 boards?
Or
-Cut the regulator's output leg, solder two long wires to the two sides and you should measure the current flow with your DMM, compare the two boards again.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Feb 25, 2015 17:05:28 GMT -5
That would be reasonably difficult for me to do at the moment Gábor.
Greg has said in emails that he doesnt repair them and sends them out instead. He mensioned replacing the regulators and the capacitors in that area.
He also said delete all stored entries but im not sure how thatll help.
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Post by mastertech on Feb 25, 2015 19:17:57 GMT -5
That would be reasonably difficult for me to do at the moment Gábor. Greg has said in emails that he doesnt repair them and sends them out instead. He mensioned replacing the regulators and the capacitors in that area. He also said delete all stored entries but im not sure how thatll help. Well i guess the question is, are you going to fix it or just forget it? |
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Feb 26, 2015 3:05:04 GMT -5
Ill fix it if i can, but cutting legs and soldering wires out is probably beyond my capacity at the moment!
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