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Post by mastertech on Aug 12, 2015 15:09:53 GMT -5
Did you happen to see what the onscreen conv + and - voltages were at this point?
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Post by Decibel on Aug 12, 2015 15:14:08 GMT -5
Did you happen to see what the onscreen conv + and - voltages were at this point? No but I can check. I'm going to view. |
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Post by mastertech on Aug 12, 2015 15:14:35 GMT -5
Can I replace the bad resistor? SR2 infact is totally dead. Can I temporarily solder the resistor of picture two (toasted but good) up on resistor burned? What are the convergences coils and how to disconnect they? I am assuming you did replace this resistor? |
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Post by Decibel on Aug 12, 2015 15:26:13 GMT -5
Yes
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Post by Decibel on Aug 12, 2015 15:28:31 GMT -5
The +/- CONV are normal.
- jumpers yes
- conv coils disconnected
- resistors stay cold
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Post by mastertech on Aug 12, 2015 15:44:53 GMT -5
Ok, now start with just 1 color of the conv coil harness and connect it and start projector and see if SR's get hot, or warm or cold. Then shut it down and disconnect that color and then connect 1 other color and start projector and check SR's again. Then shut down, disconnect and then connect the last color, start and recheck SR's.
I only want 1 conv coil of any color connected at a time for now.
Post back the SR's feel temp of each color.
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Post by Decibel on Aug 12, 2015 17:02:23 GMT -5
I can not do these tests because the projector has decided without a logical reason to refuse to start. When I try to power on with the remote control, turns on only the blue tube with a very intense light without image or menu.
Then I see for a fleeting moment the image from the other two tubes and then the projector goes into protection.
Only by removing the cable of the blue tube from the splitter the projector come back to show the images.
I tried to swap neckboards but the reactions are the same.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 12, 2015 17:22:28 GMT -5
I am thinking you could try changing the small yellow wires on the neckboard with green to see if one of those two cables shifts the problem to green?
Is there not a bend pin on the blue tube or a pin missing? Or a pin rusty?
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Post by Decibel on Aug 12, 2015 17:29:37 GMT -5
I am thinking you could try changing the small yellow wires on the neckboard with green to see if one of those two cables shifts the problem to green? Is there not a bend pin on the blue tube or a pin missing? Thank you for suggest but when swap the neckboards I swap also the little yellow cable. I tried to swap video board without success. Could be try to swap the other yellow cable. Tomorrow I'll try. |
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Post by Decibel on Aug 12, 2015 17:36:09 GMT -5
Is there not a bend pin on the blue tube or a pin missing? Or a pin rusty? Tomorrow check also the pins of blue tube. I can try to swap this blue with a toasted green tube that I have. But it's a P19LPB not LUG's |
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Post by mastertech on Aug 12, 2015 17:46:34 GMT -5
What are the yellow wire or wires for? I cannot see the specific layouts in the schematics.
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Post by Decibel on Aug 13, 2015 2:10:23 GMT -5
What are the yellow wire or wires for? I cannot see the specific layouts in the schematics.   For example of blue: From J340 of motherboard to J40 of the neckboard socket. From J960 of motherboard to J160 of the neckboard output. |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 13, 2015 3:02:28 GMT -5
What are the yellow wire or wires for? I cannot see the specific layouts in the schematics. The small connector contains the G2 the big connector contains video. small is G1, G2 and filament I see. I guess that connector is the biggest chance for problems. I think it is a rusty pin or else some connection broken inside the tube? |
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Post by Decibel on Aug 13, 2015 3:15:46 GMT -5
I will check as soon as possible
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Post by Decibel on Aug 13, 2015 5:09:43 GMT -5
Is there not a bend pin on the blue tube or a pin missing? Or a pin rusty? Bingo Redfox!  There were two bent pins in the blue tube and one in green  The red I have not yet checked. I don't know if they were already bent when I bought the projector. To carry it better I had dismantled tubes (and neckboards) in addition to removing all the boards and lenses. However I did the tests that Mastertech asked me. With both jumpers connected and a one to one at a time convergence coil connected the resistors are always cold. Also +/-CON voltages appear always normal. Around 30/32v symmetrical. |
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