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Post by Deleted on Aug 13, 2015 5:42:22 GMT -5
Great but Mastertech also sugested this in a post some time ago  But there is progress. How is the test going with the heating of the resisors when connecting the convergence coils one by one as Mastertech asked? Good work! Oh the test was done and resistors allways cold. So resetting the geometrie solved the heating convergence board? When you connect all coils the resistors now stay cold? |
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Post by Decibel on Aug 13, 2015 6:09:35 GMT -5
I am waiting Mastertech to connect all the convergence coils because this is the normal state of operation (jumpers on and connect all coils of convergence) but I could cause the burn of SR resistors.
I am thinking that the blue tube has show always problems.
Maybe have a bent pins caused a series of problems?
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Post by Deleted on Aug 13, 2015 6:36:53 GMT -5
It is still possible that doing some convergence makes the convergence board overheat but there is also a good chance the setting where maxed out.
Hope the Max is repaired now!
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Post by mastertech on Aug 13, 2015 8:53:06 GMT -5
Great news. Now you can connect all three conv coils and test again. Hopefully is was some extreme conv settings causing the problem. The SR's may get a little warm with all connected and that would be fine.
If all this goes well, next check to see if the conv adjustments work. Does not matter which ones you try because I want you to set them back to neutral when done anyways.
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Post by Decibel on Aug 13, 2015 9:24:48 GMT -5
The SR's may get a little warm with all connected and that would be fine. Yes ... just checked. I think positive test! SR1 cold. SR2 little warm as you said but I tried to operate with menu of the convergence. Then I'm back to neutral values. p.s. just delivered in my home the pack of spares. For now I tested with success an SMPS board. Then there are also a quad, a PFC board, a controller and a neckboard. |
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Post by mastertech on Aug 13, 2015 9:51:09 GMT -5
Well I guess you are reading to test it out.
Just remember, adjusting the convergence is the last thing you want to do to move the grid around. try to get all manual settings as close as you possibly can, then do the same with geometry and lastly with convergence, hopefully using as little of adjustment as possible.
When trying to match up outer lines see if linearity, outer bow or pin or what ever will get it closer before going into convergence. The convergence section is one of the most straining sections in a projector. Using as little as possible is very beneficial.
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Post by Decibel on Aug 13, 2015 9:55:07 GMT -5
I understand little of electronic circuits, as it is understood in this topic. But the important concepts of the calibration of a crt projectors know them very well |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 13, 2015 10:15:38 GMT -5
Guys I do not want to spoil the fun but there is still a huge problem. The light on the connected remote controll still does not work!  Just kidding. One more Cinemax saved. Hmm I guess the remote was fixed with the 9V too? |
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Post by Decibel on Aug 13, 2015 10:36:22 GMT -5
but there is still a huge problem. The light on the connected remote controll still does not work! Sure! The mystery of the "remote control" remains  |
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Post by Decibel on Aug 14, 2015 5:49:56 GMT -5
However there are still issues. First of all I detect that the SR2 resistor have warm abnormally. The SR1 instead remain always cold.
I noticed some noise in images especially in blue tube.
The source actually have 1080i 60hz resolution.
I must try other sources
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Post by Deleted on Aug 14, 2015 6:05:01 GMT -5
Do you have a Moome? Lots of video noise can come from bad video sources.
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Post by Decibel on Aug 14, 2015 6:33:17 GMT -5
Do you have a Moome? Lots of video noise can come from bad video sources. No Moome. I tried with a little mediaplayer. I must to try with another source or insert DVDO VP50 videoprocessor. |
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Post by mastertech on Aug 14, 2015 12:12:15 GMT -5
The thing with the remote is, you don't know if it is the remote, the connection to the remote board or on the remote board itself. There are no schematics that I have seen on the remote it self. Unless you have the remote schematics. Does the wired remote work even though it is not lit up?
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Post by Decibel on Aug 14, 2015 12:24:26 GMT -5
The built in remote is the least of the problems.
However this remote is dead like disconnected
Now that the projector is turned on I can focus my attention on the image.
There is a persistent image flicker. Of all tubes, but especially the blue. I'll try to change the splitter ASAP. Strangely, the projector does not accept 1080p 60Hz signal.
And in my opinion it is not acceptable status of that SR2 resistor of convergence board. When the fingertip touch the resistor this is very hot.
The last but not least: after minutes of work the projector does not accept the remote control signal.
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Post by mastertech on Aug 14, 2015 14:11:33 GMT -5
And in my opinion it is not acceptable status of that SR2 resistor of convergence board. When the fingertip touch the resistor this is very hot. Do you really need the green convergence on the 909? |
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But there is progress. 
Just kidding. One more Cinemax saved.
