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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jul 3, 2015 20:39:57 GMT -5
So what do you reckon are the possible issues if this capacitor is to go bad???
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Post by Decibel on Jul 4, 2015 0:28:26 GMT -5
And guess what mine has there in that spot???  Yes same cap Hulio said it is not the cause of the fault, but after replacing the cap, the software recognized the projector and he was able to reprogram the firmware. |
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Post by Decibel on Jul 4, 2015 1:51:03 GMT -5
I tried also replace cap.
No acknowledge.
I think that my controller is definitely dead.
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Post by dummyload on Jul 4, 2015 3:39:43 GMT -5
Thus the green led on top of the internal remote blinks when you hit any bottom on the remote?
I can`t find back the schematics of the internal remote ,but if my memory is correct when the green led does`t respond
there is a problem with the remote itself or the +9v to feed it, i had a problem with the remote and the controller board at same time and it can be quit confusing.
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Post by Decibel on Jul 4, 2015 4:04:59 GMT -5
No reactions from internal remote, no backlit, no green led, nothing.
It appear completely dead.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jul 4, 2015 4:11:38 GMT -5
Have you disconnected the internal remote where it connects to the mainboard as i asked you to try yet??
I cant see where you have reported on that.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jul 4, 2015 4:12:46 GMT -5
I tried also replace cap. No acknowledge. I think that my controller is definitely dead. On what grounds do you base this assumption? |
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jul 4, 2015 4:18:12 GMT -5
And guess what mine has there in that spot??? Yes same cap Hulio said it is not the cause of the fault, but after replacing the cap, the software recognized the projector and he was able to reprogram the firmware. No im not saying its your cause, but i would like to know all possibly known issues with this capacitor failing, as in what is likely to happen when it goes bad. Yours is a different value to mine, i have a 35v 4.7uF ELNA in there. |
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Post by Decibel on Jul 4, 2015 4:18:35 GMT -5
Have you disconnected the internal remote where it connects to the mainboard as i asked you to try yet?? I cant see where you have reported on that. I'll try this evening. |
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Post by dummyload on Jul 4, 2015 4:36:17 GMT -5
Than your internal remote is dead or the +9v is not there ,disconect the internal remote and mesare with voltmeter - chasis and + at pin 2 on the connector on the mother board ,when its not there maybe there is a bad solderjoint on the mother board so the +9v does`t come to the remote and maybe even not on your controller board. If its there check cable remote and mesare on remote if its there.
Also try this remove the hv board and the front tray and start up the projector it should come up in standby and check if internale remote backlight and green light comes up when pushing any bottom.
Check tray controller connector for bend pins.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jul 4, 2015 6:06:57 GMT -5
Good helping here! Perhaps the only problem is the standby voltage and the caps on the smpts have failed after many hours? I mean they often buzz and after that fail.
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Post by hulio on Jul 4, 2015 6:07:54 GMT -5
Guys, we have to move on and look in other direction. I exclude that damn cap on the controller as being the culprit. It seems that all controllers were modded that way. Remember, on my dead controller, one leg of that cap was loss so i presumed someone had messed around there. I never tried to solder that leg back, i replaced the cap with a SMD version, like in the service manual. Funny thing is, even after replacing the cap, no remotes reaction neither but allowed me to flash with the W3 jumper in place.
I tend to share Dummyload's point of view for now, and search the reason why the controller does not get his 9v supply.
Decibel, did you replaced C450 and C451 on the SMPS sub-board already ? They are responsable for 9v and according to that service bulletin, when they loose capacitance, the voltage drops to 3-5V.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jul 4, 2015 6:42:48 GMT -5
They can also cause failure of a Zener diode somewhere there too, i think its D400, but i cant see the TSB from where i am here.
Thing is, his set runs, just does nothing. But does this mean it is one of those refered to by Barco as "May have trouble starting" or something simular they state in that TSB? Do they mean it will appear to turn on but do very little or nothing? Or do they mean the set wont even switch on and run?
The controller is primarily responsible for turning the set on, assuming no jumpers are set elsewhere to force it on, he states those jumpers are open, meaning the controller is turning on the set. Do we all agree on that?
I have some questions based on a line of thinking around that remote issue...
1: If indeed the main internal remote is not present, will the set run properly or will it not?? I cant test this with my own here at the moment.
2: If the remote was faulty, i.e. Had a short, a stuck button, faulty backlight, etc, what will this make the set do??
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Post by Decibel on Jul 4, 2015 7:06:21 GMT -5
I tried to swap whole SMPS board with a spare of my friend.
It have newer version with 560uF caps.
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Post by hulio on Jul 4, 2015 7:22:40 GMT -5
The tech bulletin states that in some cases, the projector won't start up anymore. Here the quote:
"Stand-by voltage ++9V drops heavily due to heating problem with electrolytic capacitors. Projector does not start up any more in some cases.
The ++9V stand-by voltage is generated by means of a TOP 224 (I400) on the subunit of the SMPS board. At the secondary of the transformer, we find a pi-filter consisting of two smoothening capacitors C450 and C451 and L450. These electrolytic capacitors are initially standard versions. We were reported some loss of capacitance due to an internal heat whereby the ++9V drops to approximately 3 - 5V. Depending on tolerances, some projectors may have difficulties in starting up. To prevent similar problems in the future we highly recommend to replace both capacitors by low ESR types (V1116248) to prevent the above-mentioned problem.
The faulty capacitor C450 can also cause a breakdown of the Transient Voltage Suppressor (TVS) D400 in the primary. The latter should hold 200 volts both ends but can measure a short in one direction, if faulty. Therefor, it is also advised to check this TVS or to replace the TVS if you like to prevent damage in the future, as a precaution."
Case, i remember Decibel saying that diode D400 was tested good.
Sory Decibel, i forgot that you don't need to replace the caps in SMPS.
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