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Post by gregstv on Dec 28, 2016 3:50:59 GMT -5
I have move the Barco Test projector out of the way for a while to setup the 1292. I installed one of these about 15 years ago for a customer. He paid 5K for it and the blue tube was burnt,
Mine has mint tubes and I will do a complete set up. I don't remember how to get into all the focus menus. I have the install manual from Curt's site but the pictures are bad. I have posted in the manual section asking for a good copy. Looking forward to playing with something different for a few weeks. If it comes up good I will be selling it if anyone in AUS is interested. I need to make room.
Any hints on setting these up?
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Post by gjaky on Dec 28, 2016 3:54:23 GMT -5
Perhaps looking up the G70/G90 manual would help?
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Post by gregstv on Dec 28, 2016 3:59:30 GMT -5
Good thinking, will do
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Dec 28, 2016 11:11:12 GMT -5
Watch Graham's video on Youtube, its all done on a 1292.
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Post by Admin on Dec 28, 2016 11:28:57 GMT -5
I am uploading the SM now which contains the install and operating sections also. What is odd is the pics in the op and inst section are a little crappy also but everything in the service section look good so it must be something to do with the original manual why the inst and op section pics were poor. Anyways, it is the best I have. It should be available in a half hour or so. It is pretty large and is in 2 sections.
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Post by gregstv on Dec 28, 2016 13:43:58 GMT -5
Thanks
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Post by gregstv on Dec 30, 2016 0:01:34 GMT -5
Sent ages trying to get this thing to focus as good as I would expect to but could not get there. Even played with the astig to get sharpest lines. Turns out it has standard HD10 lens. I put a HQF900 on the green and it's twice as sharp. I have another set of HD10 packed in a box. Not sure if they are any different. They may be HD10L. Hope they are better than what is on it.
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Post by gregstv on Dec 30, 2016 3:20:26 GMT -5
The picture still looked dull and poorly focused. I checked the RGB gain and they were up full. I dropped them back to mid position and the picture was still dull. Swapped the IFB11 card from port B to port A and no change. I noticed a switch on the IBF11 card when I removed it. I changed the switch and bang, The picture brightened up and focus was good. Does anyone know what this switch is? its on the IFB11 board and not ladled. It must be some sort of attenuator as it kills the picture. I bet it been like it for years and someone had turned up all the gains to try and brighten it up.
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Post by gjaky on Dec 30, 2016 3:27:54 GMT -5
There were threads on AVS that like to Barco on Sonys not all inputs behave the same (and as usual the most inconvenient inputs are the best), so it is also worth a look.
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Post by gregstv on Dec 30, 2016 3:43:21 GMT -5
I will check it out. It would be good if I can find a circuit diagram for the IFB11 input module.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Dec 30, 2016 7:44:04 GMT -5
I will check it out. It would be good if I can find a circuit diagram for the IFB11 input module. Its not a 75ohm termination switch is it? |
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Post by Admin on Dec 30, 2016 10:39:37 GMT -5
I have added some IFB11 info to the SM section but I do not seem to have the schematic. I have schematics for the IFB12 and 12a but not the 11. Sorry.
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Post by gregstv on Dec 30, 2016 15:11:16 GMT -5
Thanks Admin,
It is a 75ohm switch. The moome is terminated at 75ohm, so with the switch on it would be less than 40ohms on the input of the projector. This was killing the picture. The last person to have the projector turned up all the gains to full to compensate for the switch being in the wrong position. It was that dull they would not of put up with it. Probably why it has low hours on it.
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Post by gregstv on Jan 1, 2017 1:06:05 GMT -5
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Post by gjaky on Jan 1, 2017 2:42:05 GMT -5
Looks nice! How is the bandwidth? Also how severe is the streaking? How it compares to an XG?
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