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Post by mastertech on Jan 27, 2014 20:02:12 GMT -5
I'm not liking those numbers either. They are actually odd to see numbers like that. Is there any 0.0 or such in that reading? I would remove it and retest.
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Post by tokejo on Jan 27, 2014 20:09:42 GMT -5
Could D6001 be labeled L6001?
If so, 000 both ways.
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Post by mastertech on Jan 27, 2014 20:25:12 GMT -5
No, D6001 is in the protect circuit so it may not be in the vicinity of all these other parts. It may be near connector JL6606B
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Post by tokejo on Jan 27, 2014 20:42:35 GMT -5
I keep getting the same thing with Q6011.
That transistor for the other channels is all OL, except for Q6011.
I'm slowly figuring out how to detach the ribbon cables from the board to take the whole assembly out, but a couple of wires have me stumped.
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Post by mastertech on Jan 27, 2014 20:49:35 GMT -5
Then it probably is bad.
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Post by Tokejo1 on Jan 27, 2014 21:16:54 GMT -5
Found D6001, will measure before I go to sleep.
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Post by tokejo on Jan 27, 2014 22:11:11 GMT -5
900 one way, OL the other. I assume that means it's good?
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Post by tokejo on Jan 28, 2014 12:34:46 GMT -5
I was trying to read up on typical problems regarding the NR807 and it sounds like the other unit is experiencing an issue with the HDMI board (no video/no sound). I have to remove the HDMI board on this unit to unplug some of the connectors and get the main board out. Would it be okay to swap the HDMI boards to see if that gets the other AVR working, or do I risk having two damaged HDMI boards?
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Post by mastertech on Jan 28, 2014 12:45:02 GMT -5
It should be fine to test but I would probably try the possible bad HDMI board in the somewhat working unit.
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Post by mastertech on Jan 28, 2014 12:46:48 GMT -5
900 one way, OL the other. I assume that means it's good? That appears fine even though that number is a little high. Could just be your meter. |
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Post by mastertech on Jan 28, 2014 12:47:40 GMT -5
Were you going to order parts for the one now or wait until your parts list grows while testing other receivers?
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Post by tokejo on Jan 28, 2014 12:50:00 GMT -5
I definitely need a better DMM, this was pretty cheap.
I'd prefer to try and repair 1-2 at a time, finish with them and then move on. Otherwise I risk misplacing parts/tools/screws, etc.
Have we narrowed down all the parts that need to be replaced already?
Do you know what triggered these parts to fail?
If I haven't said it yet, thank you for your help and patience.
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Post by mastertech on Jan 28, 2014 13:04:53 GMT -5
I would think we have located all the bad parts but this is always a gamble. You never really know until you install new parts. I have destroyed enough new parts over the years that I can usually tell how far the damage has gone by seeing what is bad and looking at the schematics. I think we are good but cannot guarantee.
Test that HDMI board while I look up the numbers for those output transistors and lets see where we are at.
There are many, many things that could cause this type failure which also includes normal use. How is that for an answer, lol?
You are very welcome for the assistance.
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Post by tokejo on Jan 28, 2014 13:21:20 GMT -5
I won't be home for another 4-5 hours. I'll pull the HDMI board from the other AVR and test it in this one.
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Post by tokejo on Jan 28, 2014 19:08:50 GMT -5
I made a small mistake. I had meant to switch out the HDMI boards, but I forgot and now everything is in pieces. But the good news is that I am ready to start taking out the suspect parts. The leads from transistors 5 and 6 have been desoldered and I am in the process of removing Q6011.
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