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Post by Casethecorvetteman on May 6, 2017 8:07:44 GMT -5
Nichicons were bad for leaks, not so much Rubycons, but i have also seen the United Chemicons leak as well, i typically use Panasonic FC and FR. I pretty much replaced every capacitor in two sets of Cine 9 boards, and had GregsTV do some others for me, and i know a lot of the capacitors i removed were way out of spec, however some were perfectly fine and went into my spares tray ( which get used in non-important equipment )
I remember testing voltages on the 17v test point with one of my SMPSs and was getting more than 1.2v variance between full black and full white, but after replacement of all capacitors it was back to around 0.3v variance, and the set operation was a hell of a lot more stable. Adjusting that 17v pot changes everything, so such a big variance is an issue.
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Post by ratty on May 6, 2017 14:43:34 GMT -5
So after leaving the tubes for over 24 hours, it seems all three may be leaking under the C element. (May because it may just be the remaining glycol under the mounting ring itself, though at this point I think it should have stopped.) Is it possible the C-element's edges are thinner for the HD18 than the HD215? Anyone have exact dimensions for the o-rings?
As for the caps, that might be my next task. I prefer to use Elna caps myself if they are available in the size needed. Actually want to try some of the Elna Silmic II high-end audio grade caps in the video path, see if they do the same wonder for image quality that they give for audio in studio equiment. They are also the only cap brand that I have not seen fail in mass amounts yet, and I pulled apart a Toshiba VCR from the early 80's for fun last year, which was loaded with Elna caps, which all tested good! That's one hell of a track record, remaining on-spec for nearly 40 years!
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Post by km987654 on May 7, 2017 4:38:25 GMT -5
Nice job on those rings. Very professional.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on May 7, 2017 8:38:18 GMT -5
The stray glycol shouldve been washed away or dried up, it wont really dry up by its self. There may or may not be a leak.
Comparing caps from the 80s to current lines available is not exactly an accurate test.
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Post by ratty on May 7, 2017 16:17:20 GMT -5
The stray glycol shouldve been washed away or dried up, it wont really dry up by its self. There may or may not be a leak. Comparing caps from the 80s to current lines available is not exactly an accurate test. I tried to actually wash it off but didn't want too much water around the more sensitive parts of the tube assy. Having wiped it clean again in the morning, so far so good, looks like it may just have been what little seeped into the unused screwholes in the housing. I won't really be able to do too much till next weekend anyways, so I put'em on new paper towels and we'll see how it goes during the week. Indeed it's not an accurate test of current lineup, for caps, no matter what you use, you'll only find out how good it was when it starts failing. The values given by the manufacturers about how many hours a cap will live are guidelines at best, but going by the track-record, I'll stick with Elna. And not the RoHS compliant versions. RoHS is pretty much an excuse for manufacturers to make shit tier products under the flag of eco-protection. Anyways, today's log: -Finally got around to making a screen instead of projecting onto a wall. Would you believe white swimsuit fabric is an amazing screen material? It really is! Yes gain is probably below 1, but compared to a painted wall? It is glorious. Because of the inherent reflective properties I am getting approximately the same gain as from the painted wall, but haloing is almost completely gone! (Still using the AC BG808s) Things I could barely read previously are clearly legible, and where I previously only saw a grey box instead of 1pixel lines, now I can see them clearly. The only downside is that it does let some light through, so I will need some form of backing material for it. I'd get some white blackout cloth (That's what I originally wanted to try projecting onto), but the only kinds I can get here in white have a visible sewing pattern and are damn expensive in widths above 1.5meters(~30-50USD/meter). I'll probably end up just hanging some black cloth on the back side of the frame to kill the reflections. -Noticed some noise in the image in the busier parts of one of the test patterns I used. I went around my RGB switcher, but that was not the source of it. Might be the AC cord running parallel with the RGB coaxes? Will have to check on that. -Will need to move my projector mount to the side some to accomodate for the new screen... more holes in the ceiling... -Started re-assembling the Onyx, well... it's in progress...  |
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Post by ratty on May 9, 2017 12:28:43 GMT -5
Tiny little update, the tubes are not leaking afterall! I've left them on my workshop desk since Sunday, and looking at them now, there's no sign of any moisture! Now if only the COG board would arrive, I'd be in business. Italian post are really taking their time!
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on May 10, 2017 4:17:57 GMT -5
Tiny little update, the tubes are not leaking afterall! I've left them on my workshop desk since Sunday, and looking at them now, there's no sign of any moisture! Now if only the COG board would arrive, I'd be in business. Italian post are really taking their time! Well that is great mate! i thought that would be the case with the moisture. |
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Post by ratty on May 10, 2017 14:41:39 GMT -5
Now only if I had some spare time to rework my monitor mounts and assemble the Onyx. Probably not happening before Saturday though :\ On the plus side, my package from Decibel finally showed up today! Not like I had time to do much with it, but I unpacked the stuff. The contrast modulation board is a clear-cut case, just going to need to find some stand-offs to mount it. However the COG board I am unsure of. It is board nr R762819. The only info google shows about this board is that it didn't work for some guys in a 808, but I couldn't find anything else. I don't really see why it wouldn't work though if it's stated to work with even the 700 series? I guess I'll find out when I put all this stuff together |
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Post by ratty on May 11, 2017 15:18:39 GMT -5
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Post by Decibel on May 11, 2017 16:15:40 GMT -5
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Post by ratty on May 11, 2017 16:17:28 GMT -5
I have seen that, but that is for a different version of the board! It is smaller then this one, and has fewer connections! |
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Post by Decibel on May 11, 2017 16:19:57 GMT -5
I had many of these boards and they were all the same
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Post by km987654 on May 11, 2017 23:22:16 GMT -5
Those images are really out of focus when enlarged. It looks like you have a yellow cable running to the IRIS board and that should not be the case. The IRIS board is the little board attached to the Control board. Where does that cable come from? The IRIS board connects to the IRIS camera at the front of the convergence tray by a long gray cable.
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Post by ratty on May 12, 2017 0:41:38 GMT -5
Those images are really out of focus when enlarged. It looks like you have a yellow cable running to the IRIS board and that should not be the case. The IRIS board is the little board attached to the Control board. Where does that cable come from? The IRIS board connects to the IRIS camera at the front of the convergence tray by a long gray cable. Yeah my phone's camera has a lot of problems with focus when it deems it a 'low light situation without flash'. Company's getting us iPhone 7 next month... I both dread and look forward to the day at the same time... That yellow cable is not connected there, I just tucked it in behind the board to get it out of the way while routing the other cables under the lid. That's the cable that will go to the siwtcher board. I know where the rest of the cables go (I have my 808s for reference if I forget something anyways), mostly just curious about the COG. |
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Post by ratty on May 12, 2017 0:45:28 GMT -5
I had many of these boards and they were all the same The board version that guide is for has two or three connectors fewer. But for this PJ, the one you sent me is definitely the right one. If you look at the guide, the convergence board pictured in it also has less connectors, so there's clearly an earlier version pictured there. Anyways, so far so good |
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