|
|
Post by Casethecorvetteman on May 12, 2017 2:35:40 GMT -5
Doesnt the Cine 8 have convergence on green?
|
|
|
|
Post by ratty on May 12, 2017 12:56:13 GMT -5
Not sure about regular flavour Cine8, but the Onyx doesn't, it only has the contrast mod board by default. (Which is great because now the one Decibel sent me can go into my 808s, so I'll be set to do the blend soon as I can get my hands on a set of new-ish P16 tubes and another HD18 set. I already have the LC chambers with some rather crispy charred tubes attached. If anyone in the EU (or even overseas if the price is right) has a set of HD18+Celements and a set of new or used but very very low hour P16s, let me know!) Time to put it all back together and see what I've done now  |
|
|
|
Post by ratty on May 12, 2017 16:57:58 GMT -5
So the good news is I didn't fry anything, projector works just fine.
The bad news is, I apparently used the wrong C-element to do my measurements, and hence my C-element-to-lens distance is still nowhere near good. However, There's a limited amount of material on the rings that I can still take off without rendering them completely useless. Looks like I'll have to have completely custom adapters made after all. Does anyone here have a G70 they could take one lens off of to take a single measurement for me? I'd need the exact distance between the base of the lens housing and the rim of the C-element.
|
|
|
|
Post by ratty on May 19, 2017 12:41:17 GMT -5
So I just got back from the machine shop (and painting my equipment rack black).   I am okay with the results.  (Middle is for HD117 viewed from the back, and to the sides HD-18 adapter from the front (left) and from the back (right)) |
|
|
|
Post by ratty on May 20, 2017 15:47:52 GMT -5
So... are there more than one style of Barco 8" LC chambers in use? Because apparently the mounting holes to hold the adapter to the LC housing for the HD117, have the mounting holes near one cm off compared to my original rings (IE I need a second set of holes in my new adapters... At least I don't need the machine shop for that anymore, will do it tomorrow morning, just need to buy a new 5.6 and 10mm drill-bit. Will use my old rings as guides.)
|
|
|
|
Post by ratty on May 21, 2017 11:49:36 GMT -5
So after some cussing I stacked two of the original rings for use as guides, then bolted them to my new rings. Made 5.5mm holes, then, as I don't have the special drill bits to make a flat surface with like with the holes made by the machine shop, used a conical bit to countersink the 10mm head of new screws. The end result I think is pretty good.   While there, I also made it a point to thread one more of the unthreaded mounting holes for the LC housings. This was necesary because in factory state, it's the middle hole on each LC housing being used, which is okay with the tiny HD215 lenses, but the HD18 have such fat barrels, that to do toe-in on anything smaller then about 100" diagonal would have been impossible. This way The lenses are further apart and can rotate more.  Annnd lenses mounted! The focus knob has to go pretty far back, but I can still dial in sharp focus even on my 3m width screen with no real problem. Happy camper  So at this point, the Onyx mod is finished. COG board installed and working, the only thing left to do is the temporary mount on the ceiling (for now in the middle until I finish conversion on the 808s) and re-install the covers. Getting some friends to help me with that, then the 808s comes down, and with that I am now actively looking for a set of P16 tubes and a second set of HD18 (preferrably the metal version). If the tubes have the Barco LC housing, that's only a plus! |
|
|
|
Post by ratty on May 29, 2017 1:57:49 GMT -5
Progress is happening slowly but surely. PJ is on it's temporary mounts on the ceiling, and I spent the weekend setting up my AV equipment rack more or less successfully. My self-made scart cables are giving me trouble (see forum post in 'other equipment'), but aside from that, now everything's hooked up and seems to be working the way it should. Apparently even the universe wants this to happen, as during my flea-market outings on the weekend, I ended up buying two "plastic-shopping-bag-fuls" (yes that is now officially a unit of measurement ) of 75ohm BNC patch cables, 9 D-sub to BNC cables, and a barebones miniature Dell optiplex PC, all for pretty much next to nothing Makes cabling a lot easier, and I have a virtually noiseless PC for the theater (okay it depends on whether I can make it play HD videos smoothly, as it's an Intel Atom machine and I've never tried if they do okay. I really bought it for the original windows product key )!    I am now only looking for a good, preferrably metal encased, HD-18 set. One forum member has offered a complete BG801 at an okay price that has been modded with a HD18 set, though they are the plastic housed lenses from an XG, and it's pretty far away. I'm kinda secretly hoping someone will magically appear with a metal encased set before I get the chance to take that PJ |
|
|
|
Post by ratty on May 30, 2017 14:09:04 GMT -5
Scart cables are now all sorted, turns out that while the 808s at least tries a moment before denouncing composite video as sync "unsyncable" (Huh huh... that was awful), the Onyx doesn't even make an attempt, just keeps a blank screen up. Also the TvOne scalers don't like composite video as sync either and also just give a black screen. Odd. Anyways, my problem was in fact that I misread the DVD setup menu and it was still giving composite video as sync. Found a use for the dud battery of the camera I just canned, and after tossing the batteries out of the housing, I used it as a case for my homebrew sync separator Ta-daaaa:  Yes, that is indeed an ancient Nokia charger used as the powersupply I installed it between in-out nr8 of my analog RGBHV matrix switcher, so I can just patch it in for SCART sources whenever I need it. Makes it easier to make RGB cables for consoles and whatnot On the downside, the transport for my 808LC in Belgium was a no-show. I need to find an affordable and reliable method to get it to Hungary and it's not proving very easy.  |
|
|
|
Post by Casethecorvetteman on May 31, 2017 5:28:39 GMT -5
Youll need an LM1881 to use composite video as sync, that will give you seperate H/V sync.
|
|
|
|
Post by ratty on May 31, 2017 5:57:58 GMT -5
Youll need an LM1881 to use composite video as sync, that will give you seperate H/V sync. That's what's inside the black box |
|
|
|
Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jun 2, 2017 19:21:12 GMT -5
Youll need an LM1881 to use composite video as sync, that will give you seperate H/V sync. That's what's inside the black box I figured you'd have it sorted mate  |
|
|
|
Post by ratty on Jun 5, 2017 5:05:23 GMT -5
So yesterday saw my first extended test of the Onyx, and I have mixed feelings about the set. The colours are obviously better, the haloing is also virtually gone, and I could focus the green tube amazingly well. So that sounds all fine and dandy, but I am not at all happy with the red tube. The sad part is I don't think it's a magnetics issue. When focusing, the dot shape doesn't change, but even at it's smallest, I can barely get scanlines to show when the green clearly shows them. There is also quite a bit more drift after warmup in the convergence circuits than in my 808s, despite the fact that that set is past 11000 hours runtime and this one only has some 4xx hours on it. I think this may be the case of aging capacitors, except for the red focus. I think that's just the way that tube is There is also a slight, erratic shifting of the image left and right. It seems to be erratic and random, and on the 3m wide screen it is a movement of maybe 5mm maximum, but it seems to be constant. Probably caps on the H board ? I also have an issue that may or may not be projector related, though I suspect it is both the PJ and my signal chain. Even when I have scanlines on the screen, the video seems somewhat out of focus, as if outlines of stuff on the screen were somewhat blurred. There is also a slight amount of video noise (not visible from seating position). It may be the fact that I have an AC cable running along my signal cable, or just the fact that it is a mess in the back of my equipment rack until I recieve my BNC crimping tool sometime next week. I think the projector may be involved as well, as it seems as if the text in the menus of the projector also becomes slightly blurred after 4-5 hours of on-time. Overall I think this machine still needs some TLC to bringi t back up to spec simply because of the age of the components. For the time being it stays in place until I have the other set here (hopefully on wednesday!) and I will start looking through what boards are in there and do the mix-and match. I will have to order some good quality caps. |
|
|
|
Post by km987654 on Jun 5, 2017 5:57:54 GMT -5
So yesterday saw my first extended test of the Onyx, and I have mixed feelings about the set. The colours are obviously better, the haloing is also virtually gone, and I could focus the green tube amazingly well. So that sounds all fine and dandy, but I am not at all happy with the red tube. The sad part is I don't think it's a magnetics issue. When focusing, the dot shape doesn't change, but even at it's smallest, I can barely get scanlines to show when the green clearly shows them. There is also quite a bit more drift after warmup in the convergence circuits than in my 808s, despite the fact that that set is past 11000 hours runtime and this one only has some 4xx hours on it. I think this may be the case of aging capacitors, except for the red focus. I think that's just the way that tube is There is also a slight, erratic shifting of the image left and right. It seems to be erratic and random, and on the 3m wide screen it is a movement of maybe 5mm maximum, but it seems to be constant. Probably caps on the H board ? I also have an issue that may or may not be projector related, though I suspect it is both the PJ and my signal chain. Even when I have scanlines on the screen, the video seems somewhat out of focus, as if outlines of stuff on the screen were somewhat blurred. There is also a slight amount of video noise (not visible from seating position). It may be the fact that I have an AC cable running along my signal cable, or just the fact that it is a mess in the back of my equipment rack until I recieve my BNC crimping tool sometime next week. I think the projector may be involved as well, as it seems as if the text in the menus of the projector also becomes slightly blurred after 4-5 hours of on-time. Overall I think this machine still needs some TLC to bringi t back up to spec simply because of the age of the components. For the time being it stays in place until I have the other set here (hopefully on wednesday!) and I will start looking through what boards are in there and do the mix-and match. I will have to order some good quality caps. I think in both cases (Red and Green) you have some way to go with your CPC setup and you possibly have problems elsewhere with bad caps. Did you change tubes and use ones not from that model projector? If you did that can cause the sort of problems you mention but I would suggest you spend a good deal more time on those CPC settings first. Are the focus coils hard up against the deflection yokes? |
|
|
|
Post by ratty on Jun 5, 2017 12:00:03 GMT -5
The CPC is still factory painted, this is the Onyx with original tubes (only changed lenses), coils are tight against the deflection yokes, and there's no signs of a bad CPC setup (ie, when adjusting electronic focus with a dot pattern, the dot stays perfectly round). I am leaning more and more towards aging capacitors, especially since I noticed that at warmup with a full-white raster, the fans seem to slow down slightly as if the powersupply was getting taxed.
|
|
|
|
Post by barclay66 on Jun 6, 2017 4:20:38 GMT -5
Hi,
Would it be possible to switch the red/green focus connectors? That could be used for ruling out either the electronics (after switching, the problem stays with the red) or the tube/deflection system (after switching, the problem moves to the green)...
Regards,
barclay66
|
|
(Middle is for HD117 viewed from the back, and to the sides HD-18 adapter from the front (left) and from the back (right))
