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Post by justgreg on Mar 27, 2014 13:56:02 GMT -5
Ahhhhh...that explains it. The rule of thumb I've learned is that when one is replaced they both should be done at the same time. Is replacing the other next Nash?
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Mar 27, 2014 14:09:50 GMT -5
Ahhhhh...that explains it. The rule of thumb I've learned is that when one is replaced they both should be done at the same time. Is replacing the other next Nash? Yep, this Philips has 4. I changed the two on the Y board. Now I should have the other two for the X board on my front porch when I get home.
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Post by justgreg on Mar 30, 2014 22:27:18 GMT -5
Anything new to report?
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Mar 31, 2014 10:41:54 GMT -5
Yep, the parts just got delivered today. I paid extra 5 bucks over the free shipping but still got the same delivery time. Waste of 5 bucks. Should have been there earlier. Parts went from TX to Washington state then to NY !! WTF !!! nashou
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Post by justgreg on Mar 31, 2014 15:10:33 GMT -5
I thought it was only luggage that went on road trips like that. Looking forward to the results after you get them installed.
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Mar 31, 2014 17:01:10 GMT -5
what happens when you preheat too long while trying to get solder off heat sink mounts!!!!
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Mar 31, 2014 17:11:03 GMT -5
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Post by nashou on Mar 31, 2014 17:38:42 GMT -5
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Post by mastertech on Mar 31, 2014 19:38:22 GMT -5
According to the numbers it is more likely a 0.82uf/250VDC device. But yours should be fine for a replacement.
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Mar 31, 2014 19:53:16 GMT -5
Thanks Mac.
I'll do that.
Doing some laundry first.
Nashou
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Post by justgreg on Mar 31, 2014 22:30:49 GMT -5
Ooopsie. So the heatsinks are soldered to the PCB? I watched a pro changing IPM's and the set he was doing was set up like the Insignia I have in that the heatsink was screwed to the IPM and then the IPM was soldered to the board. He used a heatgun to the back of the board with the IPM face down and when the solder was molten he used a vacuum desolderer, then the chip just stayed on the work mat when the PCB was lifted. Wish I'd seen the vid before I battled with mine.
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Mar 31, 2014 23:50:52 GMT -5
Yeah greg, they have a clip that slides into a grove between the fins and that is soldered to the board. and the chips are also screwed in. I guess they do it because its a heavy heat sink.
Well put the board in and it stayed on for a minute. I then shut it off to see if it would power on from the power switch. Switched it on all good, then pop!! Flash from the Ysus fuse!!!!! pull the board and the new IPM's are fried again!!
So even though i can't find a short on the Buffer boards there must be one, unless I was testing it wrong. not sure how to proceed at this point. I will have to test the XSUS board now too.
EDIT: No shorts on X board.
Damn it!!!!
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Apr 1, 2014 10:53:24 GMT -5
Just realized something today. I did not have the bottom E buffer board connected last night. But I doubt it take out the Ysus. So I either did a bad repair on the YSUS or one of the DRIVE YB boards has one or two bad chips. I found the chips at UT source and Ebay. I pulled the boards and will check better for shorts. The chips are Texas Instruments SN755867's. About 3.50 a chip. But i have to get the IPM's too now. I have the tools for this type of repair if it is the DRIVE YB boards. And they suggest replacing all chips. On Ebay Coppel repair has a repair kit for the YB boards of a similar type and have this to say about the repair. So I need 12 chips, I would order 15 to have spares. At 3.53 free shipping it be about 53 bucks, plus new IPM's I can get 8 from China as well for $ 25( I paid 16 each from Coppel TV) I already have spent about 80-90 on the set. So another 75 for parts plus spares . Not sure what to do but I'd hate to give up now with all the progress I made and how much I have learned. Plus I know you guys are routing for me Athanasios
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Apr 1, 2014 12:40:55 GMT -5
Ok before I left to come to work I double checked the PS with the E buffer plugged in and all is fine with the PS. I also re checked the output pins where the ribbon connectors to the PDP from the YB Drive board go for a short GND. Nothing there.
So I am either not doing the YB Drive board test correctly or i had a bad STK chip that failed right away or that one lifted trace actually did go some where and it was the cause of the failure.
I would love to conquer this and not send the YSUS and BUffers out for testing and repair to Coppel TV but it settle my uncertainty of both a botched repair and or a bad buffer drive board.
EDIT: And I really need to get this beast off my living room floor.
nashou
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Post by justgreg on Apr 1, 2014 13:36:11 GMT -5
Well that's a drag. I'm learning too so pardon the following questions.... Could there be a short on one of the output pins at the IPM(s)? I mean, it sounds like you have good voltage going into the IPM but somewhere down stream of one of the outputs there's a short to gnd?...or possibly input voltage goes high after the set is powered on? Out of curiosity, are there any electromechanical relays in this set? And the fuse that blew...with no fuse in the holder you get no short to gnd on either side? Would it be a good thing to use lower rated fuses the next time you power up after installing new parts? Did you happen to check each IPMs pinouts for shorts to gnd when you had the IPM's out? I would hate to give up on it also if it were me. I guess if you can justify the time and expense for the greater good to learn it's cool but at some point I personally would have to consider any more money to be good money thrown at a bad cause and order new boards and accept the knock to my ego. But that's just me. lol We're rootin for ya bro!
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