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Post by mastertech on Mar 24, 2014 20:09:23 GMT -5
The caps I would change but I would not worry about the resistor unless it was open.
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Mar 24, 2014 20:22:11 GMT -5
The caps I would change but I would not worry about the resistor unless it was open. Caps changed. Retested all voltages with new fuse and they all seem with in range. EDIT, just rechecked. on page 18 I have a few that seem further out than should be. VE is 98 VScan is -176 these seem a bit low. Is there an adjustment? Nashou |
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Mar 24, 2014 20:28:58 GMT -5
Ok I found the adjustment points. set them correctly. should I try again?
With all jumpers off?
Nashou
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Post by mastertech on Mar 24, 2014 20:40:33 GMT -5
You have to set them according to the label on the back of the panel, not by what is in that manual.
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Mar 24, 2014 20:42:19 GMT -5
You have to set them according to the label on the back of the panel, not by what is in that manual. Where do I find that? Nashou |
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Post by mastertech on Mar 24, 2014 20:42:38 GMT -5
Also, I would set your DMM on diode scale, ground the neg probe and check all the supply rails on all the other boards that the P/S connects to.
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Post by mastertech on Mar 24, 2014 20:46:41 GMT -5
There should be a label on the back of the plasma panel with all the adjustable voltage settings. Gotta go for tonight. I'll check back tomorrow.
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Mar 24, 2014 20:52:02 GMT -5
There should be a label on the back of the plasma panel with all the adjustable voltage settings. Gotta go for tonight. I'll check back tomorrow. Found it, went to set VE screw driver slipped and not sure what I hit but there is nothing there but the side of the connector and a cap where the leads are well protected, I might have pushed down too hard on the VR and it shorted or something. Now error 8 damn it!!! Have to check those fuses, the red round ones. I don't have any of that type and never seen them before. crap...double crap!!!  lol So close!!!! Nashou |
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Mar 24, 2014 21:19:38 GMT -5
Ok put board back in to double check. It stayed on!! So I was readjusting back and was checking the 12 volt and it shut off with a 2 error code!! WTF !!
I'll let it sit again then retry.
EDIT: Seems that these VR's are sensitive or old. Just touching them a little shuts the PS down into an OVP error codes for that VR.
All works again. I'll do the other Board check next.
Crap
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Mar 25, 2014 11:52:44 GMT -5
Ok I think I found the problem. Short on the Vs lines on the XSUS board. I bet those IPM's are bad as well. I bet the bad PS took them out or vice versa. But the weird thing is
that fuse is not blown. Have to go to work now so no more testing g till late tonight or tomorrow.
Nashou
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Post by mastertech on Mar 25, 2014 12:19:15 GMT -5
I'm still here.
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Post by justgreg on Mar 25, 2014 21:24:24 GMT -5
The set will go into protect mode while adjusting voltages if you go too far. I thought I bricked my Insignia plasma when adjusting voltages but just pull the mains plug and wait a few seconds and plug back in. If it won't come on after that visually adjust the pots to midpoints and unplug/replug and try again.
I don't think you cooked your new IPM's. That isn't based on anything in particular but just that I learned they're quite robust and can withstand regular significant power-on voltage surges quite well, but don't handle their own generated heat very well. The passive heat sinks are woefully inadequate for the job which is why I added fans to mine.
At least once you do get it running you'll have a good display with excellent CR and image quality. I'm screwed with my set because I can't find a jig to flash the firmware to fix the mal-discharge and sparklies.
Anyway, while I'm bedridden and can't get my fingers into anything I've really been enjoying following this thread!
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Mar 25, 2014 21:58:40 GMT -5
The set will go into protect mode while adjusting voltages if you go too far. I thought I bricked my Insignia plasma when adjusting voltages but just pull the mains plug and wait a few seconds and plug back in. If it won't come on after that visually adjust the pots to midpoints and unplug/replug and try again. I don't think you cooked your new IPM's. That isn't based on anything in particular but just that I learned they're quite robust and can withstand regular significant power-on voltage surges quite well, but don't handle their own generated heat very well. The passive heat sinks are woefully inadequate for the job which is why I added fans to mine. At least once you do get it running you'll have a good display with excellent CR and image quality. I'm screwed with my set because I can't find a jig to flash the firmware to fix the mal-discharge and sparklies. Anyway, while I'm bedridden and can't get my fingers into anything I've really been enjoying following this thread! Thanks for enjoying this thread. I am as well and I have a feeling mac is too! Well the IPM's are bad as well, same readings as the other side. I know I should have ordered 4 of these from Coppel TV. Off to Ebay. Nashou |
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Post by justgreg on Mar 26, 2014 11:08:06 GMT -5
Wow...I'm really surprised the IPM's are blown already. You had a bad fuse right up until just recently and still apparently have an issue that's preventing the set from staying on without codes so...how badly is the design/flow of the overall circuitry that the IPM's can be in jeopardy?? Can't wait to see what the problem ends up being. It would be nice to be able to follow along with schematics but even you can't get your hands on them.
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Post by mastertech on Mar 26, 2014 12:07:11 GMT -5
Greg. He means the IPM's on the X-sus are also blown which he didn't change yet and did not know. He already changed them in the Y -sus. We believe they are still ok on the Y.
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