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Post by mastertech on Mar 20, 2019 17:13:37 GMT -5
Are those safe with the driver boards removed? I would think they should be fine but if uncertain just remove them also.
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Mar 20, 2019 17:24:30 GMT -5
Don't get me wrong, it may be closer. But how does it help us at all if there are still uncertainties. Plus I looked through this manual and it does not have a description on adjusting those pots. Also does not have any voltage listings. So I don't know if it helps or not. Right, with out knowing what to adjust bias at its a shot in the dark the Pioneer www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/pioneer/sx-1000tw.shtml also looks close. One adjustment pot but it has 2 more transistors on amp board. But the outputs look similar. So going on Kurts suggestion I swapped amp boards and adjusted to best I could 5 mv and the higher DC followed the board to the left channel. So I let it stabilize some more and readjusted best I could to the 5 mV a little over and under on each . I also plugged it into a smart plug to monitor wattage use and you can see the change dramatically when I adjust the trimpot to higher bias setting. but its at about 12.4 watts with the bias set between 4.5 and 5.3 mV on each amp. But here is the weird part. I wanted to hear how it sounds with head phones. Last night I tried and it was horrible. Just now I tried and it sounds not bad, not bad at all. So I went to look at DC and it was almost to 0 on both channels!! Fluctuating from 23 to 0 mv off and on. WTF??? So I removed the head phones and the DC went up as soon as I removed the head phones . Not quickly but at a steady climb to where now the right channel is at 2 vdc and the left channel( now with the re capped amp board swapped from the right) is at 300 mV !!! that amp board use to go 5 vdc and the uncapped board was at 2-3 VDC . So what is it about the head phones that lowered the DC? made a video showing slow rise. nashou
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Mar 20, 2019 17:53:37 GMT -5
Well leaving amp on for longer than normal shows drift in Bias setting, not by much but enough to make me think that Kurt may be right and the transistors are leaking more than they should . So I think i'll look for those transistors. Found some on eBay and a few other places.
Unless you know where I can get them or find modern equivalents
So I think they are
Two 2sC853
One 2SA545
and a 2SA640 not on heat sink
any equivalents mac?
Headed out for a while
Nashou
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Post by mastertech on Mar 20, 2019 17:55:29 GMT -5
Is there a date sticker on the back of this?
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Mar 20, 2019 18:45:38 GMT -5
Is there a date sticker on the back of this? No date anywhere!! Not even wattage consumption. I think its from the early 70's . House brand of Playback stores in Chicago. thats all I know. headed home soon
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Post by mastertech on Mar 20, 2019 19:45:41 GMT -5
Also, see if you can confirm that this part of the circuit is the same as yours. Not necessarily the values, just the layout.
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Mar 20, 2019 21:04:44 GMT -5
Also, see if you can confirm that this part of the circuit is the same as yours. Not necessarily the values, just the layout. Its very close. Hard to determine. The power and GND are correct on each 188. the emitter resistors are correct. The top 188 base does go to the emitter of a transistor but not through a resistor. the top 188 collector does connect to the other end of its Emitter resistor . One end of the variable resistor goes to one end of the " thermal resistor" the other end of that thermal resistor goes to the base transistor I think I might try to draw up the amp board for this thread. Might take some time. But here is a question I asked in an earlier post.....Why would connecting the head phones make the DC go to almost 0 on the speaker outs? Nashou
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Post by mastertech on Mar 20, 2019 21:17:06 GMT -5
But here is a question I asked in an earlier post.....Why would connecting the head phones make the DC go to almost 0 on the speaker outs? Nashou Without a schematic i could not tell you.
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Post by mastertech on Mar 20, 2019 21:19:07 GMT -5
If you can verify that circuit to yours specifically the connection of the pot then I have the adjustment procedure for that pot which is not how you have been doing it.
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Mar 20, 2019 23:06:57 GMT -5
If you can verify that circuit to yours specifically the connection of the pot then I have the adjustment procedure for that pot which is not how you have been doing it. I don't think it matches up exactly. I spent a lot of time marking up the back side of the Amp board . what a pain. should have hand drawn it!!! lol But Q1 and Q2 are the SD188's left side is Q1 right side is Q2 in this pic then you should be able to follow the second pic to the first pic, I'll also add the front of the board as the third pic. I don't think I missed any parts , let me know if you need specific values . I measure some with DMM but then realized they may be off . some more info , that blue wire that turns to white and goes to Relay board. it goes to board then through a resistor then thought that top diode and into a transistor, and then to another transistor . Not all clear but I'll need to mark that up too I guess ( the relay board) . EDIT: I did forget one cap, it is suppose to go at the bottom left corner of my mark up diagram, and in the front pic its the one on the bottom right corner. Hopefully there arent any others missing. Athanasios
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Post by stridsvognen on Mar 21, 2019 4:31:32 GMT -5
Its normal that Bias changes quite a lot during heatup. If you now know wich drive board is defective, why not just swap the transistors 1 at a time, there is 4 to go, it should be faster than try find the right diagram and figure out what do what.
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Mar 21, 2019 7:52:36 GMT -5
But here is a question I asked in an earlier post.....Why would connecting the head phones make the DC go to almost 0 on the speaker outs? Nashou Without a schematic i could not tell you. I think I have an answer here. Head phone jack is always in play no matter where you have the speaker selector set. On most schematics I looked at there are high power resistors that reduce the signal for the head phones. So when you insert the headphone a path to GND is created and this might be removing more DC from the signal. So this has me wondering if on this amp if I have to measure DC at speaker outs while the speakers are connected? Also I might be able to get my probes to the headphone jack and measure DC there before and after the two 550 ohm resistors. So this has me thinking that maybe its those two resistors on the relay board. Maybe they are way off in value. One thing about those on the relay board is that they do not have their own trough holes on one end. They are just soldered to the pads on the back with bent legs to make contact to GND. head phone resistors Relay resistors: I need to measure these . I will have to test this tonight, just to satisfy my curiosity if nothing else. nashou
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Post by mastertech on Mar 21, 2019 10:42:01 GMT -5
Relay resistors: I need to measure these . I will have to test this tonight, just to satisfy my curiosity if nothing else. nashou You were suppose to have checked these a few pages ago. I pointed specifically to them. I thought you said that they were connected to gnd and that you did test their value. No?
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Post by mastertech on Mar 21, 2019 10:45:26 GMT -5
What do those driver board connectors look like. I wonder if you are getting bad connections in there. It seems like every time you remove and reinsert these boards you get different readings. These connectors remind me of the old Nintendo game consoles when I use to work on them. They were so problematic they had to be replaced with gold plated connectors. Can you snap a pic of the inside of these connectors?
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Mar 21, 2019 14:50:59 GMT -5
What do those driver board connectors look like. I wonder if you are getting bad connections in there. It seems like every time you remove and reinsert these boards you get different readings. These connectors remind me of the old Nintendo game consoles when I use to work on them. They were so problematic they had to be replaced with gold plated connectors. Can you snap a pic of the inside of these connectors? I can't remember if I checked the value before, but I just did now and they are ok. I did use denatured alcohol on them with a paint brush before But it does look like they could use a bit more cleaning. Left connector sockets Right connector sockets
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