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Post by gjaky on May 10, 2019 1:33:42 GMT -5
In fact you only have to add the coaxial connectors, and don’t have to care about the sync signals as they are already routed.
BTW I use HTPC to keep the things cheap and simple.
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Post by gjaky on May 16, 2019 16:33:46 GMT -5
Sorry for the slow response. See the attached picture.
There are three trace groups on the PCB going to the relay, those are the RGB lines (coplanar waveguides). Inside there is the color signal and it is surrounded with ground. Cut those traces.
The connector pinout is arranged around the color signals like this: GGG GSG GGG
G - GND S - Signal (R or G or B)
I suggest remove the ground pins from the top row (simply pulling them off the connector and cut the legs on the PCB), then the signal pin is exposed and you can solder the MCX connector. The connector I use is: Farnell: 1206021
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Post by ronaldus on May 22, 2019 15:04:57 GMT -5
Hi Gabor, Thanks for this information. No worries, I just received the new moome today. I presume that the sync signals are connected via the connector and i have to select another input to get the sync signals routed or do i need to connect those also to the moome connector? just a few pictures from (it says VIM_FHDB VER 0.3 2010/05/19) ![]() |
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Post by gjaky on May 23, 2019 1:43:13 GMT -5
Hi Gabor, I presume that the sync signals are connected via the connector and i have to select another input to get the sync signals routed or do i need to connect those also to the moome connector? Hi Ron,
Just select SOURCE 0 2 on the remote, and sync signals will be fine.
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Post by ronaldus on May 23, 2019 3:49:19 GMT -5
Hi Gabor,
thanks !
I'll now try to find the connectors.
Do you mind sharing your HTCP setup. I'm hesitating between buying a second hand oppo player or building a HTPC. I know that the oppo's have a very good upscaling for non HD material and they have analog outputs so that I can connect them to my Cambridge audio 6.1 amplier without HDMI inputs.
I have a raspberry pie with kodi installed. I don't know if that is sufficient
Maybe open another thread for this?
regards,
ron.
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nidi
Junior Member
Posts: 72
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Post by nidi on May 23, 2019 15:19:30 GMT -5
to get the most out of your source devices, I cannot stress enough to get a
good quality scaler, like a Lumagen. you have all the tools to adjust anything
to your Marquee. the older 2K input only Lumagens can be had for a steal,
a friend of mine just bought one from Italy for $600.
then you have the flexibility to connect just anything to the scaler and tailor
all the settings for 50,60,72 and 75 Hz.
you'll have great color management built in and can better tune your projector.
then go for a 2nd hand Oppo 103 and you have a dream of a setup.
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Post by gjaky on May 24, 2019 3:01:35 GMT -5
^^ what nidi said. However for me $600 is only a steal if it is actually stolen from me LOL
Perhaps I was a little stuck-up with calling my setup a HTPC, which is in fact a simple PC. Over the years I went through several iterations with that. I often see fancy state of the art PC configuration as dedicated HTPC, but basically any PC with a dual core processor eg Intel Core 2 Duo or newer is sufficient to play movies in 1080P and hardy any RAM needed over the OS’s minimum recommendation. With a HDMI or DVI output you are ready to go. PC is also very convenient to have any output resolution, but of course is more problematic using with external sources. A RaspberryPi is also probably just enough to playback movies in 1080P, but I don’t have first hand experience with that, you’d have to google it up...
Note that I am relying on using VGA output of the HTPC so I don’t need HDMI converter, here are my current and previous „HTPC” configuration though:
old:
Intel Core 2 Duo E4600 CPU
motherboard was based on i945GZ chipset I believe
2GB RAM
640GB HDD
integrated intel VGA, later nVidia GeForce 6600GT
Current setup:
AMD Athlon 5350 APU (max power consumption 25W!)
6GB RAM
2TB HDD (+SSD)
nVidia GeForce 6600GT
BTW this is the PC I use as my main computer as well...
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Post by ronaldus on Aug 25, 2019 10:56:42 GMT -5
Hi Gabor, It's only now that i start working again on my projector! I'm about to solder the MCX connectors. In your picture you show where to cut the traces. If i understood well I also cut the two surrounding GND traces. Just to be sure. regards, ron. Sorry for the slow response. See the attached picture.
There are three trace groups on the PCB going to the relay, those are the RGB lines (coplanar waveguides). Inside there is the color signal and it is surrounded with ground. Cut those traces.
The connector pinout is arranged around the color signals like this: GGG GSG GGG
G - GND S - Signal (R or G or B)
I suggest remove the ground pins from the top row (simply pulling them off the connector and cut the legs on the PCB), then the signal pin is exposed and you can solder the MCX connector. The connector I use is: Farnell: 1206021
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Post by gjaky on Aug 25, 2019 14:24:39 GMT -5
Yes, you have to cut the a few ground pins as well, in order to access the signal pin.
More precisely: it does not matter if you cut the ground traces on the PCB or not, but the signal trace has to be cut.
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Post by ronaldus on Aug 27, 2019 0:10:42 GMT -5
Hi all, I managed to install the internal moome. I'm disappointed about the results: First of all this card has no image shift function so on my projector I have not enough phase margin to get the image in the middle of the screen otherwise it flips over on the left side. Then i get some very strange results. The first image is with the same macbook i was using before on 1080p50 and no overscan (like i always did) (this is an option in the videos settings menu of the mac). If you look carefully there are some artefacts in the image.  This image is with 1080p50 and the box overscan ticked. I doesn't show the complete image on the screen anymore but the artefacts are gone but the bandwidth is still not better  I'll try tonight with a blue ray player to see what that gives but i wonder what kind of moome card i got! Sorry for the bad pictures but you get the idea. |
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Post by ronaldus on Aug 27, 2019 0:18:05 GMT -5
for stridsvogen,
I just checked again this thread and you told me that the moome internals that have a green pcb should be good. I have one that is yellow/orange (see earlier in this thread).
So this one is not good?
regards,
ron.
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Post by stridsvognen on Aug 27, 2019 4:04:18 GMT -5
sounds like your running long retrace in the Marquee, so first thing should be to plug a player directly into the moome card, trow up a geometry/ overscan pattern and 0 all your settings, make sure your on short retrace and only use the phase shift to move the active image as far right as possible before it falls over the raster.
The rest of your image centereing should be done with the focus yokes manual raster centering, in combination with the flare magnets, keep adjusting your flare every time you shift the raster, and then back checking your flare, until the flare is perfect and the image is perfectly centered on the tube face, without using phase shift or static convergence.
When thats all lined up we can continue with the bandwidth/ moome card, but first you need to be 100% sure that you have the projector mecanical setup right and no processing/ scaling going on.
Use a BD player as reference and output 1080P 60hz, the DVE test disc is highly recommendet.
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Post by gjaky on Aug 27, 2019 5:22:31 GMT -5
sounds like your running long retrace in the Marquee, so first thing should be to plug a player directly into the moome card, trow up a geometry/ overscan pattern and 0 all your settings, make sure your on short retrace and only use the phase shift to move the active image as far right as possible before it falls over the raster. The rest of your image centereing should be done with the focus yokes manual raster centering, in combination with the flare magnets, keep adjusting your flare every time you shift the raster, and then back checking your flare, until the flare is perfect and the image is perfectly centered on the tube face, without using phase shift or static convergence. When thats all lined up we can continue with the bandwidth/ moome card, but first you need to be 100% sure that you have the projector mecanical setup right and no processing/ scaling going on. Use a BD player as reference and output 1080P 60hz, the DVE test disc is highly recommendet. Ronaldus is using 1080P 50Hz which falls in the lower deflection range, moreover his deflection board is from a 9500DM which I'm not even sure can run in high scan mode at all. Anyway at 56kHz scanrate the Marquee lets use short retrace only, in this case that is 3.6us blanking time (pretty crap). |
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Post by stridsvognen on Aug 27, 2019 5:33:27 GMT -5
I would worry more about that than bandwidth in this case, 50hz is a horrible refresh rate, both flicker wise and motion wise, to a point where even the worse digitals will look better. Unless its only for upscaled PAL DVD movies.
So ill recommend getting that Marquee up to speed on the deflection side first and at least be able to run 1080P 60hz with a decent 3:2 pulldown. From the description above it seems something is off with the retrace, if it cant display the full image inside the raster.
I would try see how the BD player looks with both 50 and 60hz and if it then falls into place.
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Post by ronaldus on Aug 27, 2019 6:45:13 GMT -5
Hi All,
I was running all the time with 1080p 50Hz and this is nice when you whatch TV because that's all 50i or 50p
I never had problems with that with the old external moome card. I could show 50i and 50p without any problems. I was on short retrace all the time.
I'll check with a Blue ray player tonight and I'll report here.
regards,
Ron.
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