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Post by ronaldus on Aug 29, 2019 16:05:41 GMT -5
Hi All,
I checked yesterday with a blue ray player (sort of; it's an internet provider box with build in blu ray player) on 50p and the image is much better. No scaling artefacts and i can see an improvement from the external box although the test pattern looks slightly less resolved than the external moome. It also works fine with the raspberry pi and kodi.
If I put 50i the projectors HV shuts down with 60i it works The test pattern still doesn't look fully resolved. The external moome was better in that respect. You see that test patterns don't say everything.
I leave this bandwitdh problem for what it is now. I did't bypass any ferrite beads in this new internal moome yet. I want to keep it original for the moment. but maybe it could that.
I have a friend who will borrow me his oppo player. I'll check then also the greyscale and gamma because after Gjakys mod the image is very dark. To get a sufficient bright image I have to put the contrast to 77% and the brightness to 80%. If i go for the 0-255 setting in moome and blue ray i loose all the black details so there is some adjustment needed there.
On the positive side:
The signal is really clean no noise in the blacks and hardly any blooming I can put contrast and brightness to max without any problems. It starts to look like a window where you look through the outside world but I think it can still be a bit sharper.
Maybe I'll put in the old HDM again because this can do all the scanrates. I changed for another one because I didn't have enough with with that one when running 50 hertz
That's it for the moment.
regards,
Ron.
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Post by gjaky on Aug 30, 2019 1:06:08 GMT -5
Hi All, Maybe I'll put in the old HDM again because this can do all the scanrates. I changed for another one because I didn't have enough with with that one when running 50 hertz Have you tried to adjust the width coils on the original HDM? |
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Post by stridsvognen on Aug 30, 2019 3:18:59 GMT -5
Hi All, I checked yesterday with a blue ray player (sort of; it's an internet provider box with build in blu ray player) on 50p and the image is much better. No scaling artefacts and i can see an improvement from the external box although the test pattern looks slightly less resolved than the external moome. It also works fine with the raspberry pi and kodi. If I put 50i the projectors HV shuts down with 60i it works The test pattern still doesn't look fully resolved. The external moome was better in that respect. You see that test patterns don't say everything. I leave this bandwitdh problem for what it is now. I did't bypass any ferrite beads in this new internal moome yet. I want to keep it original for the moment. but maybe it could that. I have a friend who will borrow me his oppo player. I'll check then also the greyscale and gamma because after Gjakys mod the image is very dark. To get a sufficient bright image I have to put the contrast to 77% and the brightness to 80%. If i go for the 0-255 setting in moome and blue ray i loose all the black details so there is some adjustment needed there. On the positive side: The signal is really clean no noise in the blacks and hardly any blooming I can put contrast and brightness to max without any problems. It starts to look like a window where you look through the outside world but I think it can still be a bit sharper. Maybe I'll put in the old HDM again because this can do all the scanrates. I changed for another one because I didn't have enough with with that one when running 50 hertz That's it for the moment. regards, Ron. When using a player you need to set the level to 16-235 on the player, and 0-255 in the moome card for maximum dynamic range and perfect video level clipping. Ill recommend setting brightness around 50, and adjust G2 till you see bar 17 showing up on your tube face. And you can run contrast all the way up to 100 unless it starts to bloom. |
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Post by ronaldus on Sept 2, 2019 15:32:22 GMT -5
For Gjaky,
Yes I adjusted the width coils but no improvement. It's as if the H amplifier is hitting a limit. What I also did was removing the jumper under the daughterboard of the HDM. With the jumper in standard setting i reached max width at say 80% and with the jumper removed i reached the same max width at around 50% (the percentages are not exact but just use for explanation). So it looks to me that there is a max current limit jumping in or something.
Thats what I can remember about it. I had a thread about that on curts site.
regards,
Ron.
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Post by ronaldus on Jan 5, 2020 14:29:48 GMT -5
Hi all,
Happy new-year to everybody.
I didn't have time to work on the projector but now I about to buy a nice blue ray player. I have a question for you guys.
I have a choice between a OPPO BDP103 or BDP103D with Darbee processing. Do you thinks it's worth it to have?
Please let me know,
Regards,
Ron.
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nidi
Junior Member
Posts: 72
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Post by nidi on Jan 5, 2020 18:12:45 GMT -5
I do have the Oppo 103D, can be had very cheaply used here in Switzerland
(Euro 270) , I recommend the one with the Darbee.
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Post by ronaldus on Jan 6, 2020 7:41:59 GMT -5
Hi Nidi,
Thanks for the reply.
There's one on ricardo that i'm following so i hope that i can get that one for a good deal.
regards,
Ron.
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nidi
Junior Member
Posts: 72
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Post by nidi on Feb 4, 2020 13:35:39 GMT -5
Ron, any advancements with a BluRay player.
one of my HT shop contacts has one 103 coming in this week (2nd hand)
if you weren't able to get the one on Ricardo.
Michael
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nidi
Junior Member
Posts: 72
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Post by nidi on Feb 22, 2020 12:15:54 GMT -5
Ron,
has been too quiet on your side for too long.
do have any news?
any progress in your quest?
Michael
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Post by ronaldus on Oct 31, 2020 3:07:19 GMT -5
Hi Michael and Gjaki,
Yes it was too quiet from my side. I worked on the automation of the cinema room and that is working super nice now.
In the mean time i have an OPPO 103D now and although the image quality is slightly better because i pushed the darbee settings, the real quailty improvement is in the sound! It is really much better.
Despite the not fully resolved 1080p signal the image is really pleasant to look at. Especially dark scenes. The image is incredibly clean.
I have troubles adjusting the G2 and drive settings because i don't know where to start (which brightness and contrast settings). I have the impression that I can never get the whites to saturate (using the avs test disc) so i think there might be a problem with the output level of the moome. If I'm not mistaken i should be able to saturate the white level even if the contrast is not at maximum.
I want to really try to fix this issues now.
Since France is in lockdown again i'll have some time to work on it.
Regards
Ron.
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Post by gjaky on Nov 4, 2020 17:21:45 GMT -5
For various reasons there is not too much gain reserve on the VNB-DB board, in fact you may find yourself in using at the high 90s but there is no problem with that since those are just numbers. You can try to crank up the contrast on the Moome card on the other hand.
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Post by ronaldus on Nov 8, 2020 2:37:20 GMT -5
Hi all,
@gabor
Before cranking up the contrast on the moome card I want to be sure that it's that. I'll probably measure the output on a scope first. Why? If i increase the contrast on the marquee the image becomes reddish when i reach 80% or so (it comes gradually) and according to you this means that the Green amplifier is saturating. For me this means that if i increase the contrast on the moome i'll simply reach this saturation point sooner because i simply increase the peak voltage going into the green amplfier. Am i Right?
I have the impression (but no measurements) that the image is brighter when i start up the projector then lets say half an hour later. At work we have a screen calibration set (X-rite i1 i believe) I can try to measure the light output.
Before the mod i could put contrast all the way upto 100% and I would get horrible blooming but the colors didn't shift
This indicates that the source of the problem could be somewhere else:
some possible causes:
problem in the LVPS ( i recapped it and in the beginning there was a problem with the brightness caused by some leftover hairs of a cleaning brush)
Problem in the HVPS (if the HV is too low i'll get lower energy beam and the focus is off and the light output is lower. Once in a while the HV dips)
I curious for your point views
Regards,
Ron
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Post by gjaky on Nov 8, 2020 9:46:12 GMT -5
Hi Ron,
You are thinking right, when you push the contrast up the green might indeed saturate, but not in a way you would think. The contrast voltage for the AD835 is given by the sum of general contrast signal and the drive signal (as in greyscale adjustments). Now the green tube is usualy driven harder than the red, when you see the color shift that is due that the contrast voltage saturates at the input of the AD835. You can overcome this only by increasing the amplitde of the video signal. The AD835 is designed to have 1V input level for both inputs. The video signal is 0.7V (usualy) but since the HD video signals are only found in the range of 16-235 the actual white level therefore is only 0.645V that might be a little thin for the board.
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Post by ronaldus on Nov 9, 2020 15:48:00 GMT -5
Hi Gabor,
This makes fully sense. I tried yesterday putting the moome on range extend. The whites get a bit better but off course the blacks are getting even darker as expected. If I try to compensate with the G2 settings I manage to get the blacks better but I see a lot of noise and a dark line in the middle of the image. This indicates the need for more signal so I'll try to adjust the contrast on the moome and go back to 16-235 settings (maybe with black boost)
I keep you informed.
Regards,
Ron.
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Post by gjaky on Nov 10, 2020 8:22:10 GMT -5
Setting the output to 0-255 migh also help but it will introduce greyscale banding as it will cause rounding errors to the video levels.
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