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Post by deangale123 on Oct 18, 2018 4:43:37 GMT -5
Okay we did the USB update there are no changes to it accepting hdmi !
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Post by tjmotter on Oct 18, 2018 10:02:32 GMT -5
This is all I could get from it 're holding the display at start up I wasn't sure what you meant about pushing the tone + button , but I pushed it and it didn't scroll through  Try the "-" button then. One scrolls forward and the other scrolls backwards. We need to confirm that everything is booting. Here is what the buttons look like:
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Post by deangale123 on Oct 18, 2018 15:46:54 GMT -5
This is all I could get from it 're holding the display at start up I wasn't sure what you meant about pushing the tone + button , but I pushed it and it didn't scroll through Try the "-" button then. One scrolls forward and the other scrolls backwards. We need to confirm that everything is booting. Here is what the buttons look like:
Okay will do it today. |
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Post by deangale123 on Oct 20, 2018 23:13:33 GMT -5
Sorry I cannot get the firmware levels to toggle through past any further more than what I pictured previously.
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Post by deangale123 on Oct 20, 2018 23:17:26 GMT -5
I would add the subwoofer hum level is getting pretty bad to the point of rendering it unusable. Might have it to take it out
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Post by tjmotter on Oct 21, 2018 9:29:57 GMT -5
I would add the subwoofer hum level is getting pretty bad to the point of rendering it unusable. Might have it to take it out I don't recall any mention of a subwoofer hum.... There may be more wrong with this receiver than just the HDMI subsystem. |
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Post by deangale123 on Oct 21, 2018 11:55:31 GMT -5
Turns out that was me accidentally laying an Ethernet across the wires leading to the sub. Yes going to a visual inspection of the internals soon .
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Post by dobrykamil on Feb 21, 2019 18:58:52 GMT -5
The environment should show something like the following: baudrate=115200 bootfile="uImage" verify=n ethaddr=xx:xx:xx:xx:xx:xx bootargs=console=ttyS1,115200n8 root=/dev/mtdblock8 rw quiet lpj=999424 rootfstype=yaffs mem=56M ip=off setparam=ok stdin=serial stdout=serial stderr=serial ver=U-Boot 1.3.3-svn (Nov 29 2010 - 18:05:03) bootcmd=nboot,jffs2 0xc0200000 0 0x254000 autostart=yes bootdelay=1 dspboot=yes Most of the settings are probably ok but the ethaddr setting will be wrong. To fix this, use the "forceenv" command like this: "forceenv ethaddr=xx:xx:xx:xx:xx:xx (simply input the 6 HEX address printed on the label on the ethernet port instead of the xx's) Next, save the values (this command will also recalculate the proper checksum as well) "saveenv" if any other variables are missing, add them using the same process Once completed, the firmware should be fixed and the system should boot properly. If not, you may have to find a working system and copy the firmware chip. HTH Todd Hi Todd Hi Todd On the tx-nr609 hdmi board, where is that diag port, is it P3102A? If so, should I wait for the boot proces to complete or interrupt it at some point? I managed to connect my pc to tx-nr609 and I watched the boot process. It stopped at the root credentials prompt (these can be found online) I logged in and executed "printenv" commnd but I got "not found" error massega back. Am I missing something here or not doing this properly? Thanks in advance Kamil |
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Post by tjmotter on Feb 23, 2019 8:08:44 GMT -5
The "environment" is established before Linux starts to boot. Before the DSP can boot from a NAND, it needs to initialize the filesystem. This is done through a tool called "YAFFS" (Yet Another Flash Filesystem). YAFFS essentially initializes the NAND for use as a disk subsystem and then points the DSP chip to the location where Linux resides. Once the Linux environment loads, it is too late to access YAFFS.
To access these commands (you can search for "YAFFS" to learn more about them), you must halt the boot process before Linux starts. On the NR609 you have about 1-2 seconds at the very beginning where you simply need to press any key on your keyboard to halt the boot. This will place you in the YAFFS environment.
I should clarify that the correct format of the command above is:
forceenv ethaddr xx:xx:xx:xx:xx:xx
Note that the "=" sign is not used for the command but will be automatically inserted into the variables list.
This approach will work on the NRx09 environment and later but will not work on earlier models like the NR3007/NR3008 simply because Onkyo set bootdelay=0 on those models so there is no time to stop the boot. There is a way to do this on these models but it requires a programmer.
HTH
Todd
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Post by dobrykamil on Feb 23, 2019 8:41:32 GMT -5
Thanks Todd, will definitely give this a try.
I've got 509 and 609 lying around with no audio, and I recently got TX-8050 with the same dodgy TI chip. Some people reported on the internet, that this model stopped outputting sound after firmware upgrade.
Appreciate you help.
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Post by dobrykamil on Feb 23, 2019 18:10:04 GMT -5
Well, that was easy enough :)Just keep one finger over, say Enter key and one over Onkyo's Power on button. Todd was right, you have 1-2 second to push down enter key, before linux boot kicks in. Turns out, one of my 609 is a bit temperamental, 1 out of the 5 times it turns on without sound. I reckon it's DSP chip in this case, because ethaddr is being populated with correct value ( matches the sticker on the ethernet socket). Now regarding my TX-8050..it still wouldn't work with my recently purchased XD830K013DZBK4 chip from China. I was fortunate and found among my spare parts, a good D830K013DZBK4 chip I've purchased ages ago. The engraved DD and DTS logo looks exactly the same as the original. Now, I'm a happy owner of a fully working Onkyo TX-8050 network streamer  |
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Post by tjmotter on Feb 24, 2019 8:54:51 GMT -5
Well, that was easy enough :)Just keep one finger over, say Enter key and one over Onkyo's Power on button. Todd was right, you have 1-2 second to push down enter key, before linux boot kicks in. Turns out, one of my 609 is a bit temperamental, 1 out of the 5 times it turns on without sound. I reckon it's DSP chip in this case, because ethaddr is being populated with correct value ( matches the sticker on the ethernet socket). Now regarding my TX-8050..it still wouldn't work with my recently purchased XD830K013DZBK4 chip from China. I was fortunate and found among my spare parts, a good D830K013DZBK4 chip I've purchased ages ago. The engraved DD and DTS logo looks exactly the same as the original. Now, I'm a happy owner of a fully working Onkyo TX-8050 network streamer Glad to hear it! I usually find that intermittent boot issues on the DSP is often just a cracked solderball. How many hours do you have on the unit? If you are not sure, bring up the MAIN FW screen and press "SETUP". That should display the hours of use. Turn the unit off after checking because if you hit the wrong button it will zero out the hours of use. If the total hours is less than 16,000, you probably just have a weak solder joint on the bottom of that DSP or a weak capacitor somewhere on the 1.2V or 3.3V rails. To fix the solder joint you can try a reflow (as detailed earlier in this post) or re-ball the DSP with lead based solder. As for the capacitor, you should be able to identify the likely culprits by looking through the schematics with a focus on the capacitors that sit next to the voltage regulators for the 1.2V and 3.3V lines.
As for those "XD" chips, they don't work properly at all. There is something different in the timing between those and the regular "D830" chips. After installing them I can always get everything to function but while Surround Sound work perfectly, Network and USB won't stream data. When you try, they play about 1 second of music and then stop. TI refuses to tell me how they differ so I have no idea how to fix this.
HTH Todd
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Post by tibimakai on Feb 25, 2019 11:25:04 GMT -5
Hi Todd, happy to see you here.
I'm wondering, how do you know so much about these Onkyos?
By the way, the Q4001 has arrived, I will solder it in one of these days.
But I don't believe, that will affect anything, right(at least, it won't smoke)? I mean it won't boot up.
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Post by dobrykamil on Feb 26, 2019 6:35:11 GMT -5
Glad to hear it! I usually find that intermittent boot issues on the DSP is often just a cracked solderball. How many hours do you have on the unit? If you are not sure, bring up the MAIN FW screen and press "SETUP". That should display the hours of use. Turn the unit off after checking because if you hit the wrong button it will zero out the hours of use. If the total hours is less than 16,000, you probably just have a weak solder joint on the bottom of that DSP or a weak capacitor somewhere on the 1.2V or 3.3V rails. To fix the solder joint you can try a reflow (as detailed earlier in this post) or re-ball the DSP with lead based solder. As for the capacitor, you should be able to identify the likely culprits by looking through the schematics with a focus on the capacitors that sit next to the voltage regulators for the 1.2V and 3.3V lines. As for those "XD" chips, they don't work properly at all. There is something different in the timing between those and the regular "D830" chips. After installing them I can always get everything to function but while Surround Sound work perfectly, Network and USB won't stream data. When you try, they play about 1 second of music and then stop. TI refuses to tell me how they differ so I have no idea how to fix this.
HTH Todd
Hi Todd Thanks for the tips. Well, my 609 displays only 7 hours of use, so obviously somebody has reset it. I'll look at the 1.2V and 3.3V rails and propably replace few caps there. I want to sell in on ebay at some point, so I think I'll rebal dsp chip with leaded solder balls for the peace of mind. |
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Post by tjmotter on Feb 26, 2019 8:01:07 GMT -5
Hi Todd, happy to see you here. I'm wondering, how do you know so much about these Onkyos? By the way, the Q4001 has arrived, I will solder it in one of these days. But I don't believe, that will affect anything, right(at least, it won't smoke)? I mean it won't boot up. I have 20+ years of experience working on Server designs for many of the industries biggest computer manufacturers so I had a good baseline of knowledge to start. I learned the basics of Onkyo's when my SR605 died. I should know better but for some complex reasons I turned it on one day and left it running continuously for 5 years. When it died I decided to try to fix it and found that it had a LOT of issues. For example, almost every capacitor in the system was worn out. I spent hours pouring over the schematics and following signals through the system until I had figured out how everything worked. FWIW, that amp is now fully repaired and works perfectly.
My next effort was to try to repair an NR807 I bought off eBay. That is where I first encountered the DSP issues. After fixing that unit I decided to make this a hobby and bought an Integra 20.3. That project taught me most of what I know about DSP firmware. Several years later I have now repaired close to 100 Onkyo/Integra systems and figured out the intricacies of HDMI, DSP's, main amps and pretty much everything in between. Sadly, all of these purchases seemed to have gotten my local UPS and FedEx drivers upset so they started dropping the boxes from great heights to damage them even further so after repairing the mechanical damage on the last 3 receivers I bought, I closed my eBay account and no longer repair these systems other than the occasional project I take on for a forum user. There seems to have been a string of NR3007/NR3008, PRC5508, NR5008 systems that have started to fail lately (BGA worn out) and since I had to buy 12 of the 300Mhz chips (minimum order quantity) for my NR807, I have focused mostly on those. My supply of new DSP chips is now gone so I am winding my repair efforts down even further and won't be spending much time on these forums.
With respect to your RZ, replacing Q4001 will help a lot. It is possible that once you get the smoking issue eliminated, you can make progress with the Main CPU firmware.
Good luck Todd
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