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Post by tibimakai on Mar 16, 2022 0:23:23 GMT -5
I have updated the firmware, and I have tried both Main and Sub outputs but there is still no video or audio(I assume, did not hook up speakers yet), but I see that HDMI and PCM(old DVD player) shows up on the receiver's display.
I'm think, that means that is getting the signal, right?
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Post by tjmotter on Mar 16, 2022 9:36:36 GMT -5
Did you change the output device in the menu to "SUB"? If you are seeing the device, that is a good sign. Have you checked to see if the DVD Player is doing the "handshake" with the TV? The4 Service Manual should be able to describe how to determine this. If not, let me know and I will try to recall how to bring this up.
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Post by tibimakai on Mar 16, 2022 13:31:33 GMT -5
I have tried with both outputs. What do you mean about the DVD to TV handshake? If an actual picture shows up directly on the TV? I haven't tried that.
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Post by tjmotter on Mar 16, 2022 15:02:34 GMT -5
What I am trying to say is that to use the "SUB" as an output, you must setup the amp using the "menu" button to change the output device.
To see if the two devices are handshaking, hold the DISPLAY button down for 3-4 seconds. It should show both an input and output resolution such as:
Input Output
480i/60-> -> 480i/60
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Post by tjmotter on Mar 16, 2022 15:03:26 GMT -5
In a properly synced system, both should be the same. In a bad system, one of the two will typically be either wrong or missing.
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Post by mastertech on Mar 16, 2022 18:19:34 GMT -5
In a properly synced system, both should be the same. In a bad system, one of the two will typically be either wrong or missing. The unit does not have a built in scaler? |
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Post by tjmotter on Mar 16, 2022 20:08:46 GMT -5
It does. You raise a good point in that the two values could be different but I would expect 1/2 of the display to show nothing or "error". This is how I usually start to debug an HDMI system because it tells me which parts are working (input or output or both).
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Post by tibimakai on Mar 16, 2022 23:28:49 GMT -5
It shows UMKNOWN>> 480P/60. So the input is not recognized, right? This is with SUB output.
If I press it again, it shows IN: 0 OUT:3
With MAIN it shows UNKNOWN >> 1080p/60.
If I press it again, it shows IN: 0 OUT: 16
Just a refresher. SII was shorted so I have replaced it, but I haven't measured anything since.
Maybe we should measure some voltages, to be sure that the SII is working.
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Post by tjmotter on Mar 17, 2022 10:08:15 GMT -5
Correct, the input isn't working.
Checking voltages is the obvious next step. On these units always start by checking the voltage regulators lined up at the back side of the board. There should be 4 of them. I always start by checking Pin 3 of each of these while it is powered off to ensure that none of them are shorted. These rarely fail but can help point you to the problem. For example, very few parts on this board use the 1.3V or the 1.8V rails so if one of those is shorted, it narrows down the problem.
If you don't find any shorts, power up the board and recheck each of these devices at Pin3 to see if they have the correct voltage.
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Post by tjmotter on Mar 17, 2022 10:17:53 GMT -5
BTW, the 4 voltage regulators are: Q8961, Q8951, Q8941 and Q8931.
One last comment: these SII parts are difficult to attach. Both have a "ground lug" on the bottom that MUST be soldered to the board. I know you did this a while ago but if you have to do this again, the only way I have found to attach these is:
1) with the chip in roughly the correct position, press down lightly on one edge and watch to see if the other side tips up off the traces. If not, lift the chip off and add some solder to the ground plane under the chip. Repeat this process until you have a very slight "teeter totter" effect such that when one side is flat on the traces, the other is slightly lifted.
2) at this point, place some flux on the ground lug, align the chip and solder ONLY ONE SIDE of the chip so that the pins on the other side are slightly lifted off of the traces.
3) now, apply heat to the middle of the chip watching the "raised" side closely. Once the chip is hot enough, the solder will on the ground lug will melt causing the raised side of the chip to drop down onto the traces. At this point, the chip is properly bond to ground and you have 25% of the pins soldered down.
4) solder the rest of the pins down and go back with a set of probes to make sure you don't have any solder bridges.
This is the only way I have found to reliably ensure that the ground is properly attached.
HTH
Todd
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Post by tibimakai on Mar 17, 2022 18:00:57 GMT -5
Thanks for all that, but I think that I already went over probably like 8-10 time and I have checked all the pins with a needle.
I will check those regulators again, but I don't remember having any shorts.
The SII was shorted, it was getting quite hot, so after removal, that short was gone. Now the SII is just barely warm.
I'm just wondering, if by any chance something else may have been damaged, when the SII was damaged.
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Post by tibimakai on Mar 18, 2022 0:22:21 GMT -5
Those regulators are at the bottom, because I couldn't find them on the top? The four big round coils show the right voltages tough. I can't see a designation for these coils.
I see some of those tiny shiny ICs that you "like" so much. Q8932/42/52 for example.
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Post by tjmotter on Mar 22, 2022 11:04:43 GMT -5
I have been looking at the schematics and I don't see anything else in the data path that would seem to affect this. The primary lines used for communication between HDMI chips are the DDC lines and they appear to be a direct connect to the SII chip. The only other thing that makes any sense is that the 5V lines that power the HDMI ports aren't working. As background, each HDMI port will have a 5V supply line going to it on one pin. All of these ports share the same 5V source and that is the only thing I can think of that touches every port other than the SII chip.
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Post by tjmotter on Mar 22, 2022 15:40:32 GMT -5
Note that this 5V signal is only (IIRC) used for Hot Plug detection so this is a long shot but it is worth checking.
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Post by tibimakai on Mar 24, 2022 10:33:47 GMT -5
That 5V is only on, when a plug is plugged in, right? If I remember correctly, that should be on pin #18 at the HDMI ports.
If this is not on, I will get another IC.
Actually I have, but they have sent me the wrong one, the 73, and not the 75 model.
Do you think, that these SII ICs could be fake as well?
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