I have no idea what is going on here. You have eliminated power, the HDMI chip and it appears that the VMPU is working. The only other things I can think of is the firmware on Q8305. The Kyoto (VSP) chip is pretty much a direct connection to the HDMI chips so there really isn't much there that can go wrong. I do have a working NR838 HDMI board I could sell if it would help.
The 4.87 should be enough. I rarely see firmware chips get damaged but I have seen the contents get scrambled if the device is writing to them when the fault occurs. The NR636 and NR737 use the same board but there will likely be some changes required. First, the "personality module" has a different program so this will have to be moved to the new board (Q7001).
Whenever you see an asterisk next to a component in the schematics, it means that this part is either missing from some PCA's or is different. For example, the schematics show that the HDMI chip (Q8302) is an SII9573CTU yet you know that it is an SII9573CTU. This part is listed with an asterisk (*Q8302) so when you check the parts list for the NR636 you will see that it is an SII9573CTU but when you check the parts list for the NR838 you will see that it is listed as an SII9575CTU. If you follow this decoding process you will find that the NR636 is missing the firmware chip (Q8305) as well as some other parts (like the Z2/3 circuitry and the components that allow for both SUB and MAIN to be turned on at the same time.
So yes, these boards can work but they will not be fully functional unless you move some components from your existing board.
Last Edit: May 28, 2022 9:04:46 GMT -5 by tjmotter
I have to mention, that like three traces under the HDMI chip have lifted. If I remember correctly #1&2 and #46(I will actually have to confirm these pins) but it is hard to tell, if these traces should be connected to something under the IC, or they end there(IC leg). It may very well be one of these pins maybe should continue to something else and it is interrupted there. I liked the old schematics, where we had the PCB as well, and you can see, where all the traces go.
i am sharing you my experience regarding the HDMI chip replacement and it testing
1.Once you connected the monitor or screen the PIN number 19 of HDMI port (output) should became around 4.8volt 2.Pin number 15& 16 of HDMI port(communication lines), should read around 5 volt 3.Make sure center pad(ground) of HDMI chip is soldered properly 4.once HDMI chip started transmission , the transmission pins of HDMI port read around 2.7 volt to 3 volts
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