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Post by tjmotter on Mar 24, 2022 13:16:17 GMT -5
You can check any working Onkyo to determine if the port is on when unplugged.
I don't think the SII parts could easily be faked. There aren't too many devices with this many pins. They could however be used which means they could already be blown.
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Post by mastertech on Mar 24, 2022 15:34:09 GMT -5
HDMI inputs will not have any +5v on pin 18 when there is no connection. Only HDMI outs have +5v on 18 with nothing connected.
When a connection is made, the source device sends the +5v to the receiving device. If the receiving device is working correctly it will acknowledge the +5v and then send a signal back to the source device via the HP detect line. Once both devices acknowledge both signals then a connection is considered established and the devices will begin communication with each other.
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Post by tibimakai on Mar 25, 2022 10:01:15 GMT -5
That is what I thought too.
I will have to measure that, if it is there.
I'm getting sidetracked with another hobby, building a Locost. Yesterday I have brought home the engine.
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Post by tibimakai on Mar 29, 2022 10:00:48 GMT -5
The 5V is there at the HDMI port, when I plug in an HDMI cord w/DVD player.
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Post by tibimakai on Mar 31, 2022 10:06:42 GMT -5
What else can I try here?
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Post by tjmotter on Mar 31, 2022 12:29:02 GMT -5
A different chip is the only thing I can think of
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Post by tjmotter on Mar 31, 2022 12:30:28 GMT -5
When you checked the voltages did you check them on the chip or at the voltage regulators? Onkyo uses coils as fuses in these designs so if the other one blew, it could have caused one of the coils to blow open. You can either check each of them with a meter or check to ensure you have voltage at the pin.
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Post by tibimakai on Apr 1, 2022 9:58:21 GMT -5
I will check the voltages, at the IC level and also the coils, if all is good, I will buy another IC. Thanks Todd.
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Post by tjmotter on Apr 12, 2022 10:45:54 GMT -5
Quick question: Did you attempt to update the firmware after installing this chip? Many Onkyo's require firmware for their HDMI chips and without it, the chip won't boot.
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Post by tibimakai on Apr 13, 2022 10:00:02 GMT -5
Yes, I did. We talked about this on the last page. I have just placed an order, for 2 ICs.
What I could do until then, is to measure the voltages, at the IC level.
Which are the most important ones?
Todd, you ever had one, with the main board cracked(lifted one side)? I have solder joined those traces, and at some wider ones, I have placed component terminals to join them, but I still feel like, the soldered joint won't hold up. I'm referring to the tiny ones.
Specially when I pop the board back in.
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Post by tjmotter on Apr 13, 2022 13:12:53 GMT -5
Ack, IIRC, the HDMI board is a multilayer board which means they have routing between some of the layers. If one of those is broken it would be a nightmare to find. You would have to test every single connection looking for an open. The fix would be to install bluewire to replicate the trace.
To be honest, you would be better off rebuilding another broken board. I have 1 working NR838 HDMI board and I may have another in a state of disrepair. Let me know if you would like me to search through my stash.
Todd
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Post by tibimakai on Apr 14, 2022 10:11:50 GMT -5
The main bottom board(amp board) is cracked.
Going back to the HDMI issue, which voltages would be important for the IC to be OK, or bad?
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Post by tjmotter on Apr 14, 2022 20:30:25 GMT -5
All of them are important. You need 1.3v, 1.8v, 3.3v and 5v. Note that the HDMI subsystem takes all of its direction from the VMPU (Q8701). If this video processor isn't working properly, the HDMI subsystem won't boot. These devices are a royal pain simply because I have not found any way to program them except for the Onkyo firmware process and they are programmed in the factory to match up with the HDMI chips installed.
Yesterday I repaired a blown RZ820 HDMI board that had been hit by lightning (I suspect). The HDMI chips were missing when I received it and I immediately found that the MAIN CPU, the VMPU and the NET ARM processor were blown. I first replaced the MAIN CPU and after a ton of work using my Renesas programmer, was able to get it working (Onkyo sets the protection to on for all of their newer systems so you can't grab a working copy). Next, I replaced the VMPU with one from an NR838 and then added the 2 HDMI chips. At this point, the amp would turn on and I could get sound (the DSP was fine) but I couldn't update the firmware because the NET ARM CPU was dead. I checked the firmware revisions and found that the MAIN CPU was booting, the VMPU was booting and the DSP was booting but the OSD and the NET ARM firmware were all question marks. I figured the VMPU wasn't talking to the HDMI chips properly because the NR838 used SII parts while the RZ820 used Panasonic and thought I could fix it by simply updating the firmware so I removed the NET ARM cpu and replaced it with a good part from a dead RZ810 board I had purchased a couple of years ago. Now that I could update the firmware I had it run through the process only to have it fail every time at the VMPU. It seems that Onkyo uses different settings and I simply couldn't get around it so I ended up pulling the VMPU off the RZ810 board and installed that knowing that it used the same main HDMI chip as the RZ820. Only after all this work was I able to get the RZ820 working perfectly. |
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Post by tibimakai on Apr 15, 2022 10:07:10 GMT -5
Wow, that is a lot of work. Good job finding all the issues. I wouldn't be able to do all that. I'm trying to stick to simple amp issues, or maybe HDMI IC replacement.
Lately I'm not to dedicated on repairing these receivers, since I'm about to start building a Locost(similar to a Caterham car). Picked up a mini mill and a mini lathe.
I'm busy repairing and improving them.
Eventually, I will take those measurements at the IC, because at the four coils I have those voltages.
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Post by tibimakai on May 17, 2022 21:09:25 GMT -5
Replaced the Q8302, updated the firmware again, and I have measured the voltages, and I don't really see nothing really off.
5.0SBVCC at pin #101 shows 4.87V, other voltages are 1.37V, 3.23V.
Everything is still the same, no video. I have tried Main and Sub, and it still shows UNKNOWN at the input.
Any other ideas would be appreciated.
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