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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Aug 17, 2019 5:46:15 GMT -5
No one knows where it should be???
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Aug 17, 2019 5:45:21 GMT -5
Ebay mate, youll sell them easy on there. Ive still got more than ten of them here.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Aug 17, 2019 5:43:49 GMT -5
Look on ebay, from time to time they come up new old stock.
Eisemann still has them new as well.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Apr 27, 2019 16:07:14 GMT -5
the ext moome card came out many years before he made the Barco int card. And by plug and play i mean the NEC SONY and Marquee cards are slide in cards, no cables or extention needet. The Barco int card looks like a exact copy of the Sony card, so im sure it have quite a nice potential to it, but as it only fits in the Barco its not a option to use that one. I prefer the Mrquee moome card with the 3 seperate output buffers, and no 3D stuff on board. It does slot straight in, just like the NEC internal MOOME does. There is one cable to connect, which you unplug from the PORT3 card anyway so it is allready there and takes less than 5 seconds to connect. It couldnt really be much easier, i bought 2 when they launched and theyre exceptionally good for the price they were. Prior to that i was using an external MOOME box which was only marginally better than a HD Fury 3, and probably not quite as good as a HD Fury 4 ( albeit not by much )
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Apr 26, 2019 19:32:41 GMT -5
Not that much later, its in the 808, and the 708.
And the rest is rubish, it most certainly is plug and play, you just take out the PORT3 card, replace it with the Barco HDMI, and wola, you have 4x HDMI 1.4 inputs. Straight up. No stuffing around, it works that easy.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Apr 26, 2019 8:44:13 GMT -5
Hi all where should the AKB line be on the tube? After swapping some boards around mine has moved.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Apr 26, 2019 7:44:16 GMT -5
Ill think the EXT dac is also pointed to the 7-8" low end projectors, like Barco 808 and alike that did not have internal slot, and there was the int alternatives for NEC Sony and Marquee with better specs in the last generations. Yes they did, on a Barco the internal MOOME takes the place of PORT3 RGB card, which most Barcos have.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Apr 6, 2019 6:06:46 GMT -5
Ok, stand down I found the specs, it wont go above 60Hz so its not much use unfortunately.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Apr 6, 2019 5:57:14 GMT -5
And how much to ship to Australia?
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Apr 6, 2019 5:56:49 GMT -5
What are the capabilities of this machine?
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Apr 4, 2019 21:46:19 GMT -5
No mate unfortunately its less that 1,000 hours on this tube!!
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Apr 4, 2019 21:45:29 GMT -5
Yes i have a memory block thatll work for that, the focus is way off and tube face is near full, i use that for the warmup screen
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Apr 4, 2019 7:44:51 GMT -5
I imagine this was Greg's thoughts when he told me to run tube run in cycle for 8 hours. This runs the tubes at full bright for 5 seconds, then full dark for 5 seconds, alternating on-off until you stop it. Ill think that the initial break in of the phosfor your thinking about, i usually run it in different intensity with a fully maximised raster on the tube, starting off with something like a 30% IRE for some hours, and then 50% for some hours and so on, i slightly overfocus the tubes to get a very even phosfor activation. The flaring however i would just beat the shit out of that tube, run g2 and gain all up, and contrast and brightness as high as possible, and let it sweat, i had a 500 Hour Blue LCP tube douing it, its now perfect, i also had to do it on some Planetarium tubes i have with maybe 1000 hour use at very low contrast, they were looking soft, that disapeared after a good beating at full power, just like a old grandmar car who has been ideling around city, needs some beating to burn the carb off the valves. If it survives great, if not it was junk anyway. Yes the break in for the tubes is automated on the Barco, not sure how well it works. I dont know how much wear im going to end up with on green after doing that for a few hours, red im not too concerned about!
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Apr 2, 2019 9:15:17 GMT -5
I have seen that a few times as well. Have had luck removing it by running the tube on a full 100% window 100% IRE level, crank drive up to same level as green if its a blue or red tube, and leavet it like that for multiple hours, if your lucky you burn the contermination away. I imagine this was Greg's thoughts when he told me to run tube run in cycle for 8 hours. This runs the tubes at full bright for 5 seconds, then full dark for 5 seconds, alternating on-off until you stop it.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Apr 2, 2019 9:11:51 GMT -5
Something must be dragging something down somewhere, the black level on the blue tube is up a bit, cutoff is set down about 30, raster still visible.
Red and green are in the mid to high 40s for their cutoff, but raster not visible.
Why would that be? Any ideas?
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