|
Post by gregstv on Mar 6, 2016 2:32:15 GMT -5
I think I need to redo the astig on the Blue. I am having trouble getting uniform defocus. I still have a couple of yellowish sections. All I did with the 808s was set everything for best astig, centre, top, bottom and all sides. then did the same with the focus adjustment. Put up a white screen and only needed to defocus the centre to get good grey scale tracking across the whole screen. Am I doing something wrong?
|
|
|
Post by gregstv on Mar 6, 2016 2:26:02 GMT -5
The TDA4601 is the drive and error amp for Q101 switching. In the day when I was fixing CRT TV's the TDA4601 and the switching regulator would fail from power surge, lightning, or arcing. I have always changed them both together. If you don't you may blow another 2SC3998. The TDA4601 is around $5 and the same for a 2SC3998
|
|
|
Post by gregstv on Mar 6, 2016 2:14:43 GMT -5
Peace of cake. I have a soldering team at work that would be amongst the best in the world.
|
|
|
Post by gregstv on Mar 5, 2016 21:02:29 GMT -5
Did you measure it out of circuit? It should measure like a normal NPN transistor. Q1 could also cause the fuse to blow. If one of these has failed I would change the TDA4601 as well.
|
|
|
Post by gregstv on Mar 5, 2016 20:24:39 GMT -5
I made up a cover based on Casey's picture and the unit runs much cooler. I will set up the spare tray with the controller that has the 3.11 software and see what the differences are. I have a third controller that has a suspect IC56 (TLE2074A) There are a number of these on the controller board. Does anyone have a dead controller board they don't wont? Just so i dont have to fire up my PC and have a look, which IC is that and what leads you to believe it is faulty? Its one of the astig drivers. The gentleman that I purchased everything from, was a SEOS technician. I trust his fault finding skills. The output of this chip is stuck at 2Volts.
|
|
|
Post by gregstv on Mar 5, 2016 20:20:35 GMT -5
I made up a cover based on Casey's picture and the unit runs much cooler. I will set up the spare tray with the controller that has the 3.11 software and see what the differences are. I have a third controller that has a suspect IC56 (TLE2074A) There are a number of these on the controller board. Does anyone have a dead controller board they don't wont? He nice idea. I have one with no cover. How did you make it? I bent up some aluminium. The first one I made didn't go in as the gap tapers. Should of looked first. Use the same idea and fan cavity as the centre fan. I added some dynamat to this as well. It sealed the aluminium to the fan. also reduces fan noise.
|
|
|
Post by gregstv on Mar 5, 2016 3:01:54 GMT -5
I made up a cover based on Casey's picture and the unit runs much cooler. I will set up the spare tray with the controller that has the 3.11 software and see what the differences are. I have a third controller that has a suspect IC56 (TLE2074A) There are a number of these on the controller board. Does anyone have a dead controller board they don't wont?
|
|
|
Post by gregstv on Mar 4, 2016 18:26:18 GMT -5
Fan is blowing out. I will make up a cover. I have 2 different types of focus boards. The one in the projector is a R7631395 and the spare is a R7631391. Software in the projector is 2.23. I also have a controller with 3.11. Does anyone know what the difference is? This is SEOS 919 software.
|
|
|
Post by gregstv on Mar 4, 2016 1:02:19 GMT -5
Thanks Guys, No cover on the focus board. Just a black heat sync. Should be easy to bend one up. The jumper is on Fan not 12V. Is this the same as everyone else? The drive is on 34V.
Greg.
|
|
|
Post by gregstv on Mar 3, 2016 6:22:37 GMT -5
Was the fan working? One of my sets runs the system board very hot. Have you tried setting the focus and astig settings to midpoints and seeing if that has any effect? The fan comes on when it gets hot. Before I changed the astig board the fan would only come now and then. I will have a play over the weekend. The SR2 resistor was open circuit on the astig board. I have been doing some cold resistance checks and cant find anything wrong yet. I will keep looking.
|
|
|
Post by gregstv on Mar 3, 2016 3:37:22 GMT -5
Hi Guys, I finally got myself a Barco 919. It had a few issues that I have sorted like bad coolant and a faulty astig module. I have replaced the astig module and that is working well. I removed the front tray to check the astig module is not running hot and it is quite cool. I than noticed that the focus module is very hot. Is this normal for these units? Thanks, Greg
|
|
|
Post by gregstv on Feb 29, 2016 2:10:39 GMT -5
What is the value of that trimmer pot? For the curious like me here are some pics. Trimmer says 1M. The colour codes should give the values. There seems to be 320MOhm internal in the switcher. Untitled by Radio Head, on Flickr red purple green and the gold 2700k Untitled by Radio Head, on Flickr green blue yellow and gold 560k Untitled by Radio Head, on Flickr Red Purple green would be 2.7meg ohm not 2700k
|
|
|
Post by gregstv on Feb 27, 2016 6:25:39 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by gregstv on Feb 24, 2016 14:53:20 GMT -5
I have 4 splitters that arc on the little board on top of the splitter. They all shut down the HV. You may have two dud splitters. Greg E recommends baking the quads and splitters before fitting to avoid arcing that kills them. I will find his email and toward it to you. Do you have anymore splitters?
|
|
|
Post by gregstv on Feb 24, 2016 5:46:26 GMT -5
Have you turned it on with the tubes disconnected? It could be moisture in the HV lead. It either has to much HV or the HV is traveling up the outside and arcing across due to moisture. You could try cleaning all the lead ends that go into the splitter with some CRC-226. Not much else I can think of at this stage.
|
|