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Post by gregstv on Feb 24, 2016 5:24:40 GMT -5
Usually its moisture. I was in Brisbane on the weekend and the humidity was 100% at 34deg. High humidity caused lot of arcing on CRT televisions back when I was servicing them. I would try cleaning everything with IPA and dry it all with hot air from a hair dryer. Maybe bake the splitter in the oven at 60deg for a couple of hours.
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Post by gregstv on Feb 7, 2016 3:11:03 GMT -5
Thanks for your help Mastertech, There were a couple of issues. First of all I purchased it of EBay faulty. Someone had tried to fix it at some stage. For some reason they changed C945 on the 1.25V supply. In doing so they shorted some tracks around the pins together with solder. Somehow they scraped away the solder mask. I also noticed that L811 was not placed and the solder had been touched. I checked the circuit and it should be there. I replaced the missing inductor and still no go. After shorting the relay again as you suggested I found strange voltage readings on the VCC. I removed the regulator board and found the ground track was blow open circuit. I repaired the track and reassembled the unit and all working well. No idea what blew the track. The only problem is I have no idea of what the original fault was. I have run it for 2 hours and no issues. I could not of fixed it without the service manual. Thank you.
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Post by gregstv on Feb 5, 2016 21:32:17 GMT -5
Hi Mastertech, Yes the manual arrived. Thank you. I will short the relay out and do some checks on the regulators. I will get back to you shortly. Thanks, Greg
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Post by gregstv on Feb 5, 2016 17:53:53 GMT -5
Hi, Thanks for replying, No I don't have a schematic for the unit. Do you know where I can get one? I have put a jumper on the mains relay that applies power to the main Transformer. Behaviour is still the same with this jumper in place. Thanks, Greg
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Post by gregstv on Feb 5, 2016 2:16:43 GMT -5
Hi Guys, Has anyone had anything to do with one of these AV receivers? If I power it on the standby light flashes quickly. maybe twice per second. If I do a reset pressing Surr, exit and clear it will come on for a few seconds and then switch back to flashing standby light. I have measured all the output transistors for shorts and they are all good. Any ideas? Thanks, Greg
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Post by gregstv on Jan 16, 2016 4:30:30 GMT -5
I have spare 808s yokes, I may also look at modding the XG yokes to fit the thicker neck. I will get the XG out and have a good look over the next week.
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Post by gregstv on Jan 15, 2016 18:49:08 GMT -5
Yep, My first step will be adapt the neck board with a new socket and any needed pinout change. The deflection and focus coils will be a bit harder to sort out but should be doable.
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Post by gregstv on Jan 15, 2016 3:02:56 GMT -5
Hi, I have a XG75 and a XG1350
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Post by gregstv on Jan 15, 2016 0:42:55 GMT -5
Yep, got some with static wear on them Any idea of how much landed in Canberra?
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Post by gregstv on Jan 14, 2016 1:08:51 GMT -5
If i ever have the time we can look into that If I had some 9 inch tubes I would have a go at this. It would be a great project. Deflection coils would be an interesting challenge. I would want a worn set of tubes to start with. Do you have any spare?
Greg.
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Post by gregstv on Nov 27, 2015 2:00:43 GMT -5
Count me in.
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Post by gregstv on Aug 16, 2015 5:58:21 GMT -5
The soldering on Q202 doesn't look to good at all. It could just be the picture.
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Post by gregstv on Jun 23, 2015 7:08:12 GMT -5
On the bottom of the RGB driver board near the connectors that plug into the main board there are 3 100uf caps. check them. I know this board differs from the 808s but from this part of the circuit appears to be the same. These caps caused the same problem on my 808s including the lit blue tube but not menu or pictures. There is one cap on each 12 volt supply to the output driver transistors for each Red Green and Blue driver stage. I have 2 units and both had all 3 caps leaky. Its a simple check and worth a shot.
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Post by gregstv on Jun 8, 2015 2:23:59 GMT -5
Mike Parker has a RGB driver board for sale. Mike has done some mods to the board so it would have better performance. It would be worth grabbing as a spare even if it doesn't fix the problem. at least it would eliminate this board as the problem.
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Post by gregstv on May 25, 2015 16:25:41 GMT -5
The unit came from a planetarium. It has 32000 hours on the clock. The green tube showed very faint ware. Could not see it on the screen. It has P16 and P 18 tubes. I picked up new in the box a green and a blue tube. I picked them up really cheap and they are P16 for a 1208.fitted the only the green at this stage. I have also fitted a new Moome 1.4 card. I made up some adaptors and fitted a set of HD145 lens I got from Case. The picture is unbelievable. I will get some screen shots and put them on the screen shot thread.
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