howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Jul 14, 2019 6:46:29 GMT -5
OK, back to this for a little while this morning. I'm going to power up the amp with the bad module out so it will power up normally. I will first check the input voltage on a working modules op amp at pins 2 and 3 and then (correct me if I'm wrong) test the output at pins 4 and 6. Should be 1.1V to 8.0V depending on the resistor size between pins 2 and 6 1.8K to 135K. And then put the bad one in Wish I had a service manual and schematic for this.
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Jul 11, 2019 8:36:00 GMT -5
If you look at and expand the image posted on the first page, R506 on the bottom left is one of the resistors replaced on the repaired board that I found on line. I believe it's a 1K 87 1% resistor but the printing is mostly burned off I don't know the wattage. Both the working and not working boards resistors at this location are over heated and not readable. It is 1/2" long and about 1/4 inch in diameter. This one is showing a crack in it. I'm going to nip one leg on both the functional and not functional board so I can get a better reading off it. Perhaps a higher wattage here would help if it turns out to be the problem.
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Jul 11, 2019 5:04:19 GMT -5
I sat here with my DMM and a pot of coffee until I got the shakes. Had two identical boards side by side and everything I probed matched or damn close to it. Back to the internet (I think I found the end of the internet). I found a post listing parts and showing pictures of a repair. The one thing I did not probe that is right smack in the middle of the board is a "DC Servo OP AMP". The original was a AD705AQ and it was replaced with a LT1097. Can this be tested/checked in circuit. The other parts replaced were high wattage resistors. The readings I got from those (in circuit) matched the working board.
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Jul 4, 2019 15:04:01 GMT -5
I'm on vacation next week so I'll try to put some time aside for this. All 5 modules are exactly the same so my thought is to pull one of the working ones out and start comparing in circuit readings from one to the other.
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Jun 19, 2019 18:13:33 GMT -5
I need a Madrigal service manual for this. Anyone have friends in low places???
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Jun 9, 2019 15:03:11 GMT -5
Can all those transistors be tested in circuit or do they have to be removed???
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Jun 9, 2019 12:54:08 GMT -5
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Jun 9, 2019 10:54:02 GMT -5
perhaps this will help. Will have to pull it out again to look for additional information
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Jun 5, 2019 18:21:17 GMT -5
Well sheeeeet. Replacing the bad caps didn't resolve it. Going to have to dig deeper. And I don't think service manuals are available for these.
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Jun 1, 2019 5:03:49 GMT -5
I thought it was a bit odd that the ESR meter displayed exactly 40.0 ohms when I tested it. Come to find out, that's the limit of the meter so that cap has somewhere more then 40 ohms. That's the first cap that's pegged my meter. Not sure what parameters set a Proceed amp to go into protection mode but this is a good place to start
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on May 30, 2019 17:00:44 GMT -5
How'd I miss this one I removed all the caps from this amp and tested them out of circuit. Was cleaning the floor under my desk and found a 68uf 63 volt capacitor. I know thee's 9 caps per block and there was only 8 in the dish. So lets drag out the Peak ESR+ ESR70 meter again and test this one It's a 68uf cap that read 56.46 AND 40ohms resistance Eeeeyowsa Now that might be enough to set protection mode.
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on May 28, 2019 6:03:02 GMT -5
Interesting. What are you calling high end autos? I enjoy working on late model Corvettes.
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on May 27, 2019 8:37:22 GMT -5
Hey stranger. How are things? Keep us updated on your findings and results. SOS. I only take on interesting projects these days. This Proceed amp was given to me. The only enjoyment I'll get out of it is fixing it. I have piss poor hearing, so high end audio is out for me. Huge waste of money. I no longer have any interest in analog video. It was fun while it lasted but now with huge 4K digital video flat screens, there's just no reason for me to putz around with CRT projectors. Getting close to retirement. Need a new hobby. Tossing around the idea of rebuilding salvage high end autos.
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on May 25, 2019 8:18:24 GMT -5
So I have this Proceed 5 Ch amp that is not popping fuses but is banging out on protection. When you turn it on via the hard power button, it powers up in standby mode fine. But as soon as you push the soft power button, it goes quickly into protection mode. I quickly narrowed the problem down to the left rear amp module by unplugging it and removing it. It's modular so to be sure I wasn't chasing my tail, I moved a working module into it's slot. It's all through hole stuff and pretty easy to look at. Each module has 9 electrolytic caps in 3 different sizes. I can usually spot a bad cap right off the bat. Every one of them looked perfect Zero swelling or leakage. Couldn't find my ESR meter quickly so I pulled all 9 and tested them with a regular capacitor tester. All reasonably OK (capacitance wise) Now where's that ESR meter??? After turning my shop upside down to find the meter, I started testing The 2 10uf 50v caps read 9uf but one was 26.3 ohms and the other 16.2 ohms YIKES. A 470uf 16v was 456uf 12 ohms all the rest were 1-4 ohms. Still high so I ordered enough low ESR caps to do the whole thing, starting with the bad on to see if it will fire up.
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Nov 23, 2017 10:34:35 GMT -5
OK solar meatheads If for only a small portion of the day, I'm looking to net 4500 watts to power a electric water heater. I have calculated the available roof space and a quick search at available panels tells me that I can gross out at over 9000 watts. Not sure how to calculate the conversion loss. I don't want hydronic solar panels because I want to collect any unused watts to charge backup batteries.
The electric water heater is not stand alone. It is currently connected as a booster tank (storage tank) off a conventional heating system and the elements are unused.
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