howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Jul 19, 2022 18:36:17 GMT -5
In the process of building my new man cave/dream garage. The garage level has radiant heat in the floor. I'm planing to also hang a mini-split heat pump to cool the garage in the summer so I can play with my cars in comfort. The second floor will be a full apartment. It will have a full kitchen, bath and laundry. The second floor has a Bosch IDS 2.0 heat pump. This my first ownership of a heat pump. Backup heat will be a hydro-coil attached to the air handler and will be fed hot water from the boiler downstairs that is doing the floor. Bosch was not my first choice. I do mostly Carrier work but their high efficiency stuff is back ordered until at least October so I went with Bosch as the heating installation was holding things up. I was so impressed with this that I bought a second system to replace the aging R-22 system in the main house. The outside condensers are so quiet, I thought the first one was broken. All you hear is the turbulence of the air coming off the fan blade, not the 10 speed fan motor or the ECM compressor. So far, I'm really liking these. Expensive, yes but less then Carrier by almost half and I really like the construction along with a 10 year parts warranty. I'll post pictures later.
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Jun 12, 2022 15:38:21 GMT -5
Looking good. Do you plan on getting a car/truck to tinker with? Yes but right now it would be a distraction. I really need to concentrate on finishing the garage and painting the house. I'm going to install a 4 post movable lift in one bay for toy car storage and work on cars when it's done. Seriously considering a C8 Z06 but the old fart in me still wants another C2 Coupe Their about the same price these days.
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Jun 9, 2022 18:54:55 GMT -5
Well at least now it has a working clock, lol. When are you getting one? This is the first project car in my new but still unfinished garage. 28X36 with 11 foot ceiling in the garage level. Has radiant heat in the garage level and I'm currently installing a Bosch 2.0 heat pump on the second floor that will have a full kitchen, bath and laundry.. I actually bought 2 Bosch 2.0's so I can replace the aging A/C in the main house
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Jun 9, 2022 13:59:26 GMT -5
Very nice work. Is this your car? Nope. Belongs to my friend. He was my best man when I got married. I was his best man (twice) He's currently on #3. The car is a dog. It was a recovered theft 40 years ago. He came across it at a customers house where it remained for that 40 years. It's a coupe that originally had a 327 300 HP with a 2 spd Powerglide transmission. Now it has a 1970 350 300HP with a 3 spd Turbo Hydromatic. It currently starts and drives but no where near road worthy. Has all new brakes on all 4 corners but is missing E brake hardware so it won't pass inspection yet along with a 40+ year old exhaust system that resembles swiss cheeze
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Jun 8, 2022 4:44:48 GMT -5
The simple fix for these is usually just clean the points for the rewind relay. After that, it's a quartz conversion clock. Not me. I always take the hard way. I think at some point the contacts fused and burned off the hair thin wire feeding the relay's coil. It burned off almost flush with the insulation. Through the use of a USB microscope, I was able to tie another hair thin wire onto the burned off nub. The wire you see in this picture is literally hair thin. After getting to this point, I used the smallest soldering tip in my collection. Not sure why GM didn't do this but I think I'll add a capacitor to the clock to keep the points from arcing. Actually the same function as the capacitor in a old school points ignition distributor
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Dec 23, 2020 16:50:45 GMT -5
All those transistors tested perfect so I reinstalled them and just for giggles tried it again in the amp No Go. So I pull it out again and start looking at other things. So I grab my meter and start poking all the diodes. In circuit, all the little glass diodes test fine.(current flow in one direction only) however, there is 17 of the black with silver bands and only 2 of them appear to be holding. Will I have to lift one leg of each of them to test?
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Dec 19, 2020 7:02:40 GMT -5
perhaps this will help. Will have to pull it out again to look for additional information I pulled the module back out and removed the board from the heat sink (27 screws w/spacers). I was unable to test those big power transistors in circuit so I removed them and tested them. They all test good. Damn. On the center transistor, top and bottom, there's another device. Those are thermal switches that are normally closed. Those test fine also. Wish I had a service manual or schematic.
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Dec 15, 2020 15:20:45 GMT -5
How does that module connect to the board? This almost sounds like a poor connection problem. Its not a connection problem. It's power connections are hard screwed to the main board and if it requires being grounded to the chassis, there is 8 screws doing that. There is a 10 pin ribbon connector that connects all five amp modules to the power supply. There is only 3 of the ten pins being used. That is the protection circuit to the power board. You can unplug one board at a time to see which board is doing it or unplug at the power board disabling protection to all 5 amp modules at the same time. Right now I have the amp powered up unprotected so I can look at it
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Dec 15, 2020 11:15:09 GMT -5
Well so much for that. It ran on the bench for over 48 hours and then sometime on the third night it went into protection. I don't know what the threshold is for setting DC protection but when it was up and running, all read close to the same neg voltage on the speaker output with nothing connected to it. #1 was -0.980 #2 was -0.972 #3 was -1.077 #4 was -0.962 #5 was -0.945 After setting protection, they were all the same except #1 which was -2.375. #1 is the one that has been the problem all along. I suspect #3 will be the next problematic one.
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Dec 13, 2020 14:14:58 GMT -5
Just thought I'd post a followup on this POS. A year ago I replaced all the caps on this module. Half of them capacitance wise were out of spec and a couple of them pegged my ESR meter. After this, It still was banging off on protect. I was unable to find anything else wrong on this module. So it sat here on my bench for way over a year mostly due to it's weight. I have another project that will require the space this pig is taking up so I thought I'd give it one more look at before high end amp heaven. With the bad module out, I powered it up and took as many readings off the next "good" board in and then reinstalled the bad board. Mind you, I've done nothing to this but let it get dirty on my bench. Now it powers up perfectly and I can't get it to fail. Go figure.
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Dec 6, 2020 10:39:21 GMT -5
Hi Craig. It's me. Oh, the name doesn't ring a bell. Well, I have 2 of your repaired Dune players and you have 2 of my repaired Dune remotes. What did you find wrong with these amps and have you had any luck finding manuals? Lexicon. Madrigal, Mark Levinson, Proceed all the same me thinks. I have one amp module down in my Proceed Amp5. So now it's a hundred and something pound 4 channel amp.
Oh, as far as changing the color of the fronts DIY, have you considered trying gun black. It's like stain for metal.
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Aug 22, 2020 8:11:49 GMT -5
This extremely heavy paper weight is still on my bench exactly where I left it a year ago. I'm going to clean the shop this fall and will give it one last try at that time including looking for another used amp module to just slide in. This thing is really pissing me off just seeing it there.
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Dec 29, 2019 7:29:11 GMT -5
Hantek makes the probe (HT25) that I think I need for viewing secondary ignition waveforms. What I don't know is how to tell if it's compatible with a given scope. Hantek makes a affordable scope (DSO5102P) for under $250.00 new. So I emailed them to see if those 2 are compatible.
When I had a garage decades ago, I had a Sun scope that did nothing but view seconday wave forms so no setup required
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Dec 26, 2019 16:40:35 GMT -5
Need a new toy. For me, it would have to be at least 2 ch digital. Take direct probs plus 1X,10X and probably 100X. Would also like it to work with a inductive probe for looking at ignition wave forms on car engines. Oh and no crt based scope must be LCD. Hey stranger. Merry Christmas. What are you scoping? Or just bored. Forgot. I'm still incognito. You're the only one that knows who I am When I left you know where, I decided to become invisible. You know, like Burt on Soap. Merry Christmas to you also. Back to the scope. A. I want one and B. trying to prove a point about the effect of dirty (line voltage) power on digital controls. Non of my DMM's react quick enough to actually show someone the problem but up close and personal with a scope does
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Dec 26, 2019 13:07:14 GMT -5
Need a new toy. For me, it would have to be at least 2 ch digital. Take direct probs plus 1X,10X and probably 100X. Would also like it to work with a inductive probe for looking at ignition wave forms on car engines. Oh and no crt based scope must be LCD.
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