howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Oct 28, 2017 19:14:26 GMT -5
Found the IC on the bottom. Plugged everything in but the ribbon cables to the panel and flipped it over on a cloth to check voltage. Plugged it in and the sucker powered up. Shut it back off, flipped it back over and plugged the ribbon cables back in. Plugged it back in and it fired back up normally. It's standing up in a corner plugged in and running for now.
There was a bunch of used main boards and one new one on fleabay Thought it was dead again. Turned around and saw it was off. No source connected. I think it timed out and shut off because I pushed the power button and it came right back on
Nope dead again. Back light shut off. When in standby the LED on the front is red When the set is on the LED turns blue. The back light turned off but the status LED was still blue but the set would not respond to button presses. And I swear I heard a distinct tic when the back light turned off
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Oct 28, 2017 16:31:06 GMT -5
IC100 or IC1100???
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Oct 28, 2017 16:05:54 GMT -5
All voltage there and the back light on. Power supply OK and the main boat bad??? For a test, how long should I leave it jumped out and the back lights on? It's been on for about 5 minutes now.
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Oct 28, 2017 11:35:59 GMT -5
Pins are not numbered on the plug side of the board on the ps or main I'll pull the main and see if they are numbered on the back. Had to go digging for 100 ohm resistors. Forgot where I put my selection of electronics goodies.
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Oct 27, 2017 23:14:10 GMT -5
SOS DD Hows things with you?
Do I leave P201 connected and jump out the 2 pins for power on (left to right)using a paper clip or something to probe the plug? Same for calling on the inverter TCON???
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Oct 24, 2017 17:49:27 GMT -5
Why me??? Looks normal like it's on standby with the red standby led on However, it is unresponsive from remote or buttons on the set. Took it off the wall last night Tonight I flipped it over on the bed and removed the cover. Plugged it in and the friggin thing came on WTF. Tried it many times. Gave up and put the cover back on and NO GO. Pulled the cover off again but this time still no go. When all is normal there is a tiny led on the main board that comes on. When unresponsive, no led. Was thinking the main board until I grabbed a meter and probed the supply from the power board to the main board there is 2 5.2 volt pins showing 5.14 volts. There is also a 12 volt pin that now is dead along with a 20 volt pin that is also dead. Wondering if it sat long enough unplugged and cooled off and that's why it fired up when I tried it tonight. On a hunch, I just stuck the board in the fridge to cool it off. Lets see what happens next. If cool doesn't do it then heat. Seen weak caps respond to heating them up.
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Aug 5, 2016 4:33:27 GMT -5
As expected, it was the HDMI board and that was repaired for free. However, during testing the receiver still did not pass QC. I was contacted and told that one of the amps channels (one I don't even use) had no output and was traced to the main board. That was not covered by this recall/free repair. They charged me $75.00 for the replacement board. The additional repair was my choice. It was shipped back to me and I will reinstall it tomorrow.
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Jul 18, 2016 17:02:03 GMT -5
I'm guessing that it is the HDMI board.
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Jul 17, 2016 13:37:25 GMT -5
Complained about it on Onkyo's own forum. A rep stepped right up and gave me a RA#, sent a box with return shipping and said they would cover it at no charge including shipping. I shipped it yesterday.
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Jun 26, 2016 7:32:25 GMT -5
Checked the Onkyo web site. Entered my model and serial number and mine is not on the list of effected AVR's. Problem started about 3 months ago. Every once and a while you would turn it on and there would be no audio. After a couple of re-powers it would come on. At that time it was not connected to my LAN via ethernet so I did not know that was also problematic. So I connected it and found that when I had audio I also had LAN connection. When I had no audio I also had no LAN. Now the problem has gotten worse to the point that I now can not get audio no mater how many times I re-power and can no longer see the AVR on my network. Any ideas?
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Apr 16, 2016 6:09:25 GMT -5
All off the shelf parts. The circ is OEM. Replacements are green. The smoke pipe should have a damper and should be cemented into chimney. Also, the chimney cleanout cover appears to be missing. This will effect the draft to the boiler. The tiger loop is there to automatically purge air from the fuel system. If there is water pressure on the system, you should not have to continually purge air from it. Have to look at the pictures again to see if there is a air vent in the system. The boiler gauge is a std item as well. Looked at the pictures again and don't know if there is a automatic air vent in the system. Take a picture of the device that the expansion tank is connected to.
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Apr 16, 2016 5:46:16 GMT -5
All off the shelf parts. The circ is OEM. Replacements are green. The smoke pipe should have a damper and should be cemented into chimney. Also, the chimney cleanout cover appears to be missing. This will effect the draft to the boiler. The tiger loop is there to automatically purge air from the fuel system. If there is water pressure on the system, you should not have to continually purge air from it. Have to look at the pictures again to see if there is a air vent in the system. The boiler gauge is a std item as well.
Looked at the pictures again and don't know if there is a automatic vent in the system. Take a picture of the device that the expansion tank is connected to.
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Mar 18, 2016 4:46:02 GMT -5
HB Smith is a good boiler but the company went out of biz. All of the parts on it are pretty much industry standard parts common to all US oil boilers so parts should be no problem. Sold as a packaged unit the usually came with a Carlin burner. They were available in both steam and forced hot water. Post a picture of the front showing the burner and controls.
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Feb 14, 2016 15:46:01 GMT -5
I am right now breaking in a new generator. Manufacturers instructions say 3 hrs no load break in. Out of curiosity I decided to check no load Hz While it is running and am showing 64 HZ. I plugged a couple of things into it and it dropped to 62.5. How far off 60 Hz can I go without damaging A/V equipment? I know I can adjust the governor down a bit but am curious what is worse, below 60 or above? I'm anticipating 50-60 percent load so the generator should have no problem
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howie
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by howie on Dec 29, 2015 16:43:48 GMT -5
Just whacked the eeprom in and IT'S ALIIIIIIIIVE!!!
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