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Post by jeremy on Mar 4, 2014 11:50:40 GMT -5
Hi Crabb, I see you found the only Sony pearl that has this issue I've had a few of these and none of them have ever had any issue like this, and I've never seen anyone with this issue either! I personally have no idea where to begin with a problem such as this. I would be willing to bet it could be something as minimal as a ribbon cable, given that you can see your signal input, and the menu etc... In all honesty, it looks like the LCoS panels are fine, and everything else seems fine, I would be willing to bet that its something fixable, to what end I'm not sure, but I don't think it would be too hard to figure out whats going on with it. All in all, they are excellent projectors for the price, and if you got it for next to nothing, then I would stick with attempting to repair it. I think MT or one of the other guys here will know what to do. You're on the right forum
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Post by jeremy on Mar 2, 2014 18:03:42 GMT -5
I have one of these in mint condition here, and hell when it DID want to come on, it works perfectly, and sounds really good for a freebie receiver. It has an odd issue however:
When you power it up, the receiver powers up, LEDs come on etc... but no buttons will operate at ALL. In fact, they wont operate until the "Pure Direct" button works, when that one lets you operate it (allows that function to work once presses) the rest of the receiver will work perfectly as it should. Until then it wont let you operate it. What could be the issue, where would I proceed?
I did for the hell of it contact Onkyo, and they were willing to repair it (at my cost of course since it is now out of warranty). It would have cost almost $200 by the time it was sent in, repaired, and sent back. I don't wish to spend that much on this receiver so if I can get some troubleshooting done that would be excellent.
Jeremy
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Post by jeremy on Mar 2, 2014 11:54:25 GMT -5
You're telling me, I'm half tempted to use this projector for a LED modification project. I've seen it done with as good of results as the original lamp (without all the negatives of that lamp at that ) Don't suppose you'd have any idea where to begin?
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Post by jeremy on Mar 2, 2014 9:43:15 GMT -5
This projector uses an OSRAM lamp that is nearly impossible to find, and if you're tying to find one for a reasonable cost, good luck, as most lamps for this model are in the 90 to 110+ USD price range, making it very cost prohibitive to buy any bulb for this projector.
If you aren't sure what to do past looking up the dell part number for the bulb, then check the lamp itself. On the rear of the lamp it should have OSRAM on the back stone piece of the bulb, along with some other info which looks like this:
OSRAM P VIP 150/16
The P VIP 150/16 is the actual model of the lamp in use for the projector. Now this is not a guarantee that you will find a better lamp price, but it is another way to look for the lamp in hopes that one can be had below a $50 price range.
As a side note:
If you plan on "modifying" the projector for use with a different lamp, be sure it is a UHP/SHP lamp if you intend to use the ballast inside the projector; and to be sure that it is of the same ratings as the original bulb (more or less for safety reasons and to ensure the projector will stay operational).
Regarding LED light modifications - not many people have done this, and there are fewer that have had good results with this modification. I am currently working on a generic 9000 lumen LED bulb and PSU unit to work in digital projectors that are bulbless, as generally, there is enough room inside the projectors lamp cavity for an LED & heat sink to cool it, and if the ballast is removed from the projector, there is generally enough room to put a new power supply for the LED lamp in place of the ballast.
Once I have successfully modified a projector for an LED lamp, I will be posting the entire procedure on this forum in a separate thread. So if you're like me, and can't justify throwing out a perfectly good projector because of an overpriced lamp or hard to find lamp, keep checking back
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Post by jeremy on Feb 28, 2014 14:04:37 GMT -5
The projectors are repaired and fully operational, please see the first post.
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Post by jeremy on Feb 28, 2014 12:29:27 GMT -5
For those of you who have the Dell 1800mp DLP projectors and are having the issue of it either having erratic flashing LEDs and no power, or no power at all, here is the fix for them.
The power supply board in these projectors has one 3300uf 10v capacitor made by OST (aka really cheap crap). In fact, this is the only completely cheap knock off capacitor in the entire unit. This capacitor usually domes or bulges on the top causing the capacitance to drastically drop and therefore prevent the projector from powering on normally.
This capacitor must be replaced with a new high quality low ESR capacitor. I prefer nichicon capacitors as they are highly reliable and usually used in very high quality equipment. Once the capacitor is replaced with the new one, and the projector is fully reassembled, the projector should be ready to test. Please ensure your bulb and lamp cover are attached so the projector will power up.
Plug the projector in, and you should see the lamp and power LED flicker for a split second, after that the power LED should begin flashing blue on and off in 1 second intervals. Power up the projector, it should power up and ignite the lamp. Your projector should now be operating normally.
Enjoy!
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Post by jeremy on Feb 28, 2014 12:13:54 GMT -5
For those of you who have this model ViewSonic projector. Here is a fix for a completely dead, no LEDs, No power issue.
The repair needs to be done to the main power supply. This is the board that the main A/C power cord attaches to when in use. This board is located in the back of the projector, under the logic board. Once the board is removed, you must remove ALL the capacitors from the power supply and replace them with NEW low ESR capacitors. There are 9 capacitors on the power supply, their values are as follows:
450v 150uf 50v 56uf 16v 1000uf 16v 1000uf 35v 220uf 16v 680uf 25v 47uf 50v 47uf 50v 10uf
These are the capacitors that must be replaced. I recommend purchasing high quality nichicon low ESR capacitors for the repair. The capacitance ( uf or microfared) must be the exact same value as the original capacitors when replacing. The voltage must be a MINIMUM of the original value of the capacitors; higher voltage can be used, but make sure it will physically fit on the board without touching other components.
After the capacitors have been replaced the board should then be reinstalled back into the projector, the projector should be fully reassembled to test. Make sure your bulb and lamp cover are attached so the projector will power up.
Plug the projector in and it should either power up on its own with yellow LEDs lighting up first, or simply press the power button and the projector should power up and operate normally.
As a side note, your old capacitors may not even look bad, they might even read the correct capacitance when using a capacitor tester. Regardless of the original capacitors condition, you MUST replace them all to ensure a successful repair of the power supply.
Enjoy!
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Post by jeremy on Feb 27, 2014 21:32:15 GMT -5
I think I'm going to agree with you on the lamps. I say this because I just repaired another dell projector that had a damaged color wheel, and I know it works fine other than that. I put one of these bulbs in and it did the same exact thing. I'll go ahead and purchase a couple new lamps and see how it goes from there. These were used ones that came in the projectors so I knew there wasn't any guarantees. I think last night I just got lucky with the one bulb working for a couple hours after I repaired the PSU in the projector. For what its worth the projector said the lamp was used for 1025 hours, which is about 1/3rd its expected life. The bulbs look genuine but I have never seen an actual dell bulb so I can't say that for sure. I was going to post the same issue on a Mitsubishi projector that I also used one of these bulbs in and it did the same exact thing, so since its the same issue across different brands and models of projectors I am leaning toward it being bulbs too. Thanks for letting me bounce this off you MT
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Post by jeremy on Feb 27, 2014 14:46:50 GMT -5
For the record I tried them with 3 different bulbs, which I know one works because one of these projectors stayed working for a few hours last night after repairing the PSU. So im not inclined to believe its bulbs, but I am not 100% sure either.
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Post by jeremy on Feb 27, 2014 14:38:13 GMT -5
Yes, after the bulb goes out a second or 2 later the lamp LED starts flashing. Unplugging and plugging the projector back in makes the bulb light up again, but the same routine happens.
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Post by jeremy on Feb 27, 2014 12:24:45 GMT -5
I have 2 of these Dell 1800mp projectors here. Both had domed capacitors on the power supply boards. Repairing those made them fully power up like they should. The problem with both of them now is, the lamps will only ignite for a few seconds, then go back out. Sometimes they wont ignite, and on one, it will sometimes ignite and stay working perfect.
Would this be capacitor related as well even though the capacitor on the ballast appeared to be fine?
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Post by jeremy on Feb 26, 2014 11:16:28 GMT -5
Yeah I figured they would be around that. So you know where I can get them then I take it? Does Denon themselves sell the knobs?
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Post by jeremy on Feb 26, 2014 9:57:43 GMT -5
I have the AVR-3808CI receivers I mentioned to you a while back (last summer) that have the odd issues when the tone control is pushed all audio mutes. What I need for these though are the knobs for one of them, as its missing both the volume and function knob.
I figured I'd ask you MT since you might have one, I don't suppose you have a spare faceplate for the 3808CI as well?
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Post by jeremy on Feb 25, 2014 19:44:03 GMT -5
okay color wheels are fine, kind of expected that anyway. I did do a bunch of checks to some parts on the main logic board of the projector but didn't find anything wrong.
I suppose the next step would be to see if there is voltage getting to the logic board?
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Post by jeremy on Feb 25, 2014 18:53:48 GMT -5
I would check the color wheel just to be sure it is not damaged or stuck. If it is ok then I would start with checking the PS outputs. Are the boards marked at all near the connectors? No, it doesn't specify voltages, I could do manual checking, will just take a bit longer. I'll check the color wheels and get back to you
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