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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Sept 14, 2015 3:18:04 GMT -5
The fan on the CPU should blow air down onto the heatsink, unless its a sideways type heatsink in which case have it bow toward the rear of the case. All case fans should blow in the front and out the rear, the side fans should blow in, and the top fan should blow out.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Sept 13, 2015 2:44:57 GMT -5
Been ages since i saw one that had a jumper in place, SATA pretty much makes it redundant.
In the BIOS settings there will be an option for the two onboard SATA controllers, use the Intel controller, turn the other one off. There is a mode setting for AHCI, RAID, and i think the 3rd option is IDE. It is slower on that setting, but requires no driver to detect the drives connected.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Sept 12, 2015 7:23:30 GMT -5
Even if it does work its a bad idea and youre better off with a fresh install set up correctly, otherwise youre just creating a messy untidy installation that will run slow as a dog, if it works at all.
Its just best practice to do a fresh install with a new machine.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Sept 12, 2015 7:20:47 GMT -5
Download the Windows 7 disc from the microsoft site and use the CD key you have allready.
The issue is if you try booting that Windows 7 install the SATA drivers will likely be different, and it wont work. Especially likely if you used RAID or anything other than IDE SATA mode ( or whatever theyre calling it these days )
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Sept 12, 2015 3:30:52 GMT -5
What do you reckon is at fault here?
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Sept 10, 2015 4:28:46 GMT -5
The video card will be fine, 6 gigs of DDR3 will be fine, the 920 has enough power but i dont know where youd get one, mine failed under warranty and Intel sent me a 950 to replace it.
My older rig has all the same, but a Gigabyte X58 PRO mobo.
Ive never actually seen an Antec power supply fail over here, its all i use.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Sept 9, 2015 5:31:03 GMT -5
Id buy something reasonably good, that way you can use it for years to come. I build my computers with far more than i need so if i wanted to i could use it for 8-10 years without the need to upgrade anything more than the video card.
When you say big Antec case, which model is it? I have the Twelve Hundred.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Sept 6, 2015 0:58:54 GMT -5
Are your yokes all firm against the tube bells?
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Sept 6, 2015 0:57:41 GMT -5
When you say vertical youre talking about adjusting the sides?
The top and bottom should be close to zero, the side though could be up around 60-70, that isnt unusual. Mine is about 10-20 but it is pointing about 2-3° downward, the projector is mounted quite low but the screen is very high on the wall so i can watch it comfortably laying in bed. The image is very nearly square on the tubeface and using most of the phosphor area, very little adjustment is required on any setting to get it all perfect.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Sept 6, 2015 0:51:00 GMT -5
Ok so after testing the XRGB3 the guns do now work... However...
Theyre not accurate.
The reason for this is an unavoidable issue, the fact is that the line is drawn twice as fast as the console sends it to be drawn, so when the gun sees the light, it is further to the right of the screen than the console expects it to be, hence a significant distance from where youre pointing the gun.
There is no way around this that i can forsee, the 15.7kHz rate is a must.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Sept 6, 2015 0:47:17 GMT -5
I dont have any judder at all, but this could be due to my ststem's rediculous amount of power, 32gigs of DDR3, X79 chipset, powerful CPU, 4 gig 760GTX video and RAID0 SSDs.
Its probably more related to settings rather than raw power.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Sept 5, 2015 7:22:49 GMT -5
The very minute you post anything negative on their forum they remove it, and if you state something doesnt do what it should do they tell you to read the manual because its all in there.
Then they say they have no way to test what you want to try because none of them actually own one or a CRT projector, which is their way of saying "we dont know what to do, your problem now, figure it out yourself."
The 3D glasses are a perfect example of claimed specs being incorrect. The glasses lack the number of settings they claim them to have, they promised a second version emitter free to all those who purchsed the first one, and then backed out on the deal claiming lack of interest, so basically they cant forfil their promises and probably dont know how to give what theyre claiming in the first place.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Sept 5, 2015 7:15:26 GMT -5
The Hdfury 4 will work for frame tripling from 24 to 72hz when running HDMI in->out. I was never able to make the scaler GUI work, so i dont have any controle over the porch settings to push out the raster ringing. Hdfury has some of the worse support i have ever experienced, they prommise features and specs they cant hold, i was prommised a special 72hz firmware with the right timings to push out the raster ringing, the promise was made on the Hdfury forum, but as usual they edit and delete the forum so it look good for other buyers who read there. They also claim a 225Mhz analog out bandwidth, it wont do 150Mhz right, and 178Mhz is distorted. It look like they pay for advertising on AVS so it has not been possible to write user feedback over there. I tested 2 Hdfury4 units with identical results. Anyway, we are so close to UHD that i bet there wil be a Hdfury5 or something else that will do the bandwidth for both 1080P 72 and 96hz, i expect the new UHD BD to be a 60hz source, so that should remove the need for frame manipulation. Absolutely could not agree more on their support ( or obvious lack there of ) and the fact their products fail to meet their claimed specs. This is why im saying buy a product from someone reputable instead of supporting these clowns. Even when i did get the GUI to work i wasnt able to get the unit to run the porch settings i set into it, it just kept the standard timings no matter what i did. There were others that also had this same issue.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Sept 5, 2015 7:08:41 GMT -5
Im not really refering to the analog out, but i didnt find it at all useful for what you wish to achieve. I think you only get 72Hz out of digital on it when you go 1920x818p, not 1920x1080p.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Sept 3, 2015 4:42:15 GMT -5
The Dr HDMI works quite well, but i wouldnt recomend the HDF 4.
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