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Post by mastertech on Jul 2, 2015 11:31:40 GMT -5
And you tried your friends RGB driver board, correct?
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Post by Decibel on Jul 2, 2015 11:49:18 GMT -5
And you tried your friends RGB driver board, correct? Correct! Here the video  |
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Post by Decibel on Jul 2, 2015 11:50:50 GMT -5
In the dark also red and green appear but with very with low light.
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Post by mastertech on Jul 2, 2015 13:51:35 GMT -5
What I am seeing with that blue is it coming and going. Is that what it does or does it eventually stay on like in your other pictures. I thought it stayed on but now I am seeing something different.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jul 2, 2015 21:01:17 GMT -5
Swap the red and blue neck boards and see if that issue goes to red.
The G2 board i think youre refering to is called the SMPS 2.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jul 2, 2015 21:05:01 GMT -5
I watched the video, mine does that with no source, but unless the warmup is turned off it wont happen instantly, the reason the blue is brighter is probably the colour balance settings.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jul 2, 2015 21:11:51 GMT -5
When i first turn on my set the red goes bright like that, it has 14,000 hours on it where the green and blue have 22,000 hours on them, so your blue may indeed have lots less hours, that could explain the brightness on start, the colour balance settings could possibly explain why the blue is brighter than the red and green, and the lack of signal sync is the only issue id be concerned with at this point.
If you pull out the vertical board, is there any bad solder joints on the back?
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jul 2, 2015 21:14:30 GMT -5
Also, unplug that internal remote if its not lighting up, it could be faulty and shorting somewhere.
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Post by Decibel on Jul 3, 2015 2:05:33 GMT -5
Bad news. I tried to remove the HDTV sub board from the vertical board. When I turn on the projector, I noticed a spark from back surface of the vertical board. A smd capacitor (C1 - 100K) has burned.   I do not think it happened because of the removal of the HDTV module. Maybe I was wrong to insert the card or not fully inserted, I don't know. Hulio, I'll try to replace smd cap into vertical. Then I'll send to you the controller and vertical board to check these boards in your unit. |
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Post by hulio on Jul 3, 2015 3:51:02 GMT -5
That's not healthy but the good news is that it can be the reason why the projector didn't work. Mastertech was right looking in the direction of verticaal board.
I replaced a similar SMD cap of the same value in the controller and now is singing like a diva. Use a magnifier for the soldering job and don't expose the cap to heat for a long time.
I can test those boards for you if you like, no problem.
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Post by dummyload on Jul 3, 2015 5:35:04 GMT -5
Hulio can you tell the component number of the smd capacitor that you replaced at your controllerboard and how you know it was defective ?
Decibel so your max only responds to on /standby through the remote?
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Post by Decibel on Jul 3, 2015 6:10:07 GMT -5
Decibel so your max only responds to on /standby through the remote? The projector have no reactions with his remotes. It turn on by press the power button placed in back of projector. |
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jul 3, 2015 6:29:33 GMT -5
Is there a jumper on the controller board near the socket labeled as FORCE SMPS ON ?
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Post by Decibel on Jul 3, 2015 6:40:26 GMT -5
No jumper nowhere.
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Post by dummyload on Jul 3, 2015 8:18:09 GMT -5
There is also a jumper that can be set on the smps subboard (+9v for controller core) that activates the main power supply's (same function as sw2 on the controller board)
Remove these jumpers (if they are there) try if you can put main power supply's stby/on with internal remote ,external remote or through rs232 remote control.
If the core on the controller board is still running it should start up the main power supply's even if there is a defect in the vertical ore any oder module.
In standby only the +9v is active so the controller board can not check anything except some components on the controller board itself so it has to start up the main power supplys before it can sense anything wrong.
So if you not can put on the main power supply's through the controller board by the above you're controllerboard is dead. (if you're +9v is o.k, meaning no excessive rimpel or glitches)
Sorry technical explaining something (and in english) is difficult for me .
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