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Post by mastertech on Dec 15, 2013 13:15:05 GMT -5
Ok, it goes to the video board (210018) connector CW077, pins 2 and 3.
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Post by crudeau on Dec 15, 2013 13:41:35 GMT -5
I turned off auto range and put it on the k setting. I get 4.17 But it starts at about 3.13 and slowly climbs up to 4.17
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Post by mastertech on Dec 15, 2013 13:50:39 GMT -5
That is ohm setting. I need it on diode setting.
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Post by crudeau on Dec 15, 2013 13:55:25 GMT -5
I miss read something then. On the first board I get no reading with the diode setting in either direction.
On the second board CW077 I get .570 with - on 2 and +on pin 3 I get 1.181 with +on pin 2 and - on 3
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Post by mastertech on Dec 15, 2013 14:29:39 GMT -5
Those numbers do not indicate a short on that line which is the line from that regulator you cut the pins on. Did you test that regulator after you cut the pins with your DMM? It it repairable where you cut them?
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Post by crudeau on Dec 15, 2013 14:34:40 GMT -5
It's repairable but I measured the short when the unit was together. As of now the whole unit is dismantled. So the short must be way down the line. Should we start with the power supply? And how much of the unit needs to be assembled in order for me to power it up
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Post by mastertech on Dec 15, 2013 15:07:49 GMT -5
At this point you are doing and guessing stuff that I would not normally do in the process of trying to find the problem. If you are going to just randomly be hunting around you may never find it, or maybe you will. At this point in order for me to help you I would need you to repair or replace that regulator and reassemble the receiver. You would then have to follow instructions as I give them to you.
Now, what I will suggest before you reassemble it would be to test that regulator with your DMM to see if it tests ok. If you do not know how to test it while it is still disconnected just ask and I will explain it to you.
If it tests ok and you are able to repair the cut connection then I can give you another test before you reassemble it but I will wait for your response on the testing results of that regulator.
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Post by crudeau on Dec 15, 2013 15:11:44 GMT -5
Ok I will get it reassembled. What are the tests you want me to do on the regulator before I assemble it? I was testing for continuity between the center pin and the outside pins.
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Post by mastertech on Dec 15, 2013 15:42:44 GMT -5
Go to the AC input board and test fuse F1. You can check F8 while you are there also although that 1 doesn't matter now. Then on that board locate relay RL601. Locate the 2 pins where 1 goes to 1 of the AC input legs and the other pin that goes to fuse F1. Solder a jumper across those 2 pins. This will send AC to the fuse. Then connect the power transformer wire to CX022 on that board if you had disconnected it.
Now connect the wire from that power transformer to the regulator board at CX031. Nothing else needs to be connected to that board but make sure it is not resting on anything conductive since you will be powering it up.
Set your DMM on DC voltage, locate CX077 on that regulator board, plug it into power (be aware it is now powered up. Use pin 1 for ground and test the following pins for voltage and give me your readings.
pin 3= -5v pin 4= +5v pin 6= +15v pin 7= ?
Don't forget to unplug when done testing.
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Post by crudeau on Dec 15, 2013 16:38:35 GMT -5
ok on power up it still just flashes the light
pin 3= -2.39 pin 4= 1.30 pin 6= 14.96 pin 7= .97
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Post by mastertech on Dec 15, 2013 16:49:33 GMT -5
Ok, it's not being turned on. Is it back together or still apart?
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Post by crudeau on Dec 15, 2013 17:34:52 GMT -5
It's all back together except for the two input boards. The transistor board only had the one connector installed like you said. Otherwise everything else in installed and connected
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Post by mastertech on Dec 15, 2013 17:49:54 GMT -5
Well I was going to have you do a quick test of the output transistors on the amp board. They are all the transistors mounted at the bottom of the big heatsink. Are you able to get your test leeds to them? If you can then set your DMM to diode scale, do not plug it in and just test across there legs looking for any that may test short. The actual reading is not necessarily important but your looking for any that are inconsistent with the majority.
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Post by crudeau on Dec 15, 2013 18:04:42 GMT -5
Will do in a few. Wife has me running errands. I think they all seemed the same but again I had it on continuity which is ohm. So are you thinking the transistors are keeping it from powering up? Only reason I ask is most videos and posts seem to say it powers on for 3 seconds and then off if they are blown. I will post my findings on the bottom row in a few.
So diode setting and put negative prob on center leg and test both outers correct.
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Post by mastertech on Dec 15, 2013 18:19:27 GMT -5
Test with neg and pos on all different legs.
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