Cine8 Onyx, BG808s, conversions and blending ?

Thanks!

I found this short version: repairalmostanything.com/thread/364/setting-electronic-zone-astig-cine

But that is definitely more informative  

Anyways, I need to install new capacitors before I do anything. There is some annoying drift in settings depending on how long the PJ is on. 

Turned the PJ on, of course convergence is not perfect, so ran a movie for warmup. At the end of warmup, convergence was almost good, but still needed 2-3 clicks of adjustment to get it back to perfect. I also switched over to 1920x1080P@60hz at that time, and to my pleasant surprise, it resolved 1-1 lines pretty nicely at that resolution. The 'lit' lines were slightly thicker than black ones, which is due to me not having touched astig, but I'd have to say it's pretty decently set. 




It's not this blurry RL, just looks like that thanks to how the iPhone's camera took the pic. It was still slightly misconverged though.

After doing a touch-up, watched another film, and another... only to find that afterwards, though the convergence seemed to stay stable now, that resolving ability was lost, the black lines are not near as well visible.  

Got the screen today. I have to say, were it not for the 'transparency' of the swimsuit fabric, the difference would be negligible between it and a 1.0 gain screen. Also, with the screen being so large, it has the exact problem I was expecting, the screen fabric itself is not perfectly stretched unless you actually pull all of it out and hold it out to maximum, so going to stretch it out on the frame I used with the swimsuit fabric whenever I get around to it.
I ran the projector all evening today, and concluded that there are multiple reasons for drifting. I also have a slew of questions I'd appreciate some help with.

1, I only have the top toe-in screws tightened, ergo as the coolant chambers warm up, the tubes move slightly. I did not expect this as this was never a problem on non-LC projectors. This is probably the reason convergence never got back to perfect even the next-day after perfecting a setup. Will see once I get some bigger washers and tighten up the screws.

2, I actually checked lens-focus when firing up the set, and then later before turning off, and there was definitely a little drift in there too. How can I make sure the lenses don't move at all?

3, Electronic focus doesn't drift, but spot-size seems to be changing. The sharpest setting is still on the same number as when starting the set up, yet still the 1pix bars get definitely wider and less focused by the end. This is after checking the lenses, so I'm kind of at a loss as to what the reason for this could be. Anyone any ideas? We're talking screen center so no electronic astig that could be drifting here.

4, I have minor ringing on the left side, which I want to put out of the active image area. I suspect this might be the reason my rasters were originally shifted way to the side, to get the ringing off-screen. I still want to have the active image fill as much of the phosphor as possible. How safe is it to have the raster off the tube-face if active image is always staying on the phosphor proper, and the raster itself is barely lit up during viewing?

I suspect this may have been the intended setup straight from Barco actually, as all the IRIS test patterns are slightly shifted (which I don't think can be adjusted via any accessible setting) to the right!

5, "How black is black?" I didn't really notice any raster-glow on screen, but looking into the tubes, even a full black image had a visible raster on the tube faces. Actually lowering brightness to 37 or so completely gets rid of a visible raster on the tubeface. On the screen, I don't think the blacks go much lower, though they are really deep, but I'm definitely loosing shadow detail that way. How do you folks set this up?

Thanks for any advice!

Adjust the cutoffs to get all three bottom ends the same.

The lens drift will be fixed by leaving them lose for 45 minutes, then adjusting perfect, then do up very tight. I removed the rubber washers and use toothed metal ones.

There will be a bit of a section in the middle of the bars that can be adjusted using the midlights on the gamma menu for red and blue. There is also a blue slope and curve setting, have a play with those, see how ya go. If you make a mess of those you can reset them easily anyway.

How is this project moving? or not?

Sorry to hear that Case. Hope everything works out for the best.

Thanks very much for that, we are not really sure what will happen yet. Will keep you all posted somehow.