tonyb
Junior Member
Posts: 26
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Post by tonyb on Oct 31, 2023 20:52:40 GMT -5
Ok. I am starting to lean to a lost voltage problem more then a firmware issue. I would suggest doing some voltage tests to see if you have a lost rail. Could this voltage rail also be responsible for 'no sound'? |
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Post by mastertech on Oct 31, 2023 21:06:01 GMT -5
yes
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tonyb
Junior Member
Posts: 26
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Post by tonyb on Oct 31, 2023 21:16:35 GMT -5
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Post by mastertech on Oct 31, 2023 22:03:33 GMT -5
Good place to start. Page 61 of the SM is also helpful although some regulators need to be triggered on to output said voltage.
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tonyb
Junior Member
Posts: 26
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Post by tonyb on Nov 1, 2023 14:46:16 GMT -5
Progress/non-progress:
L4007 = 1.84v (spec 1.8)
CN401 = 3.31v (spec 3.3)
I got myself in another update loop that I'm trying to get out of. Connecting it to the network did not help
As soon as I get myself out of this loop (done it before) I'll start measuring resistors closer to the chip.
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Post by mastertech on Nov 1, 2023 14:58:09 GMT -5
I will give you a little hint. You are assuming that because you have a problem with the GUI on screen that the problem is with the GUI ic itself. But there are so many other parts involved to get that signal to the HDMI out that it could be any one of something else. Dont spend to much time on just one part. You have to hunt around checking rail voltages. That is why I posted that page in the SM. Just check rails for now.
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tonyb
Junior Member
Posts: 26
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Post by tonyb on Nov 1, 2023 15:03:43 GMT -5
I will give you a little hint. You are assuming that because you have a problem with the GUI on screen that the problem is with the GUI ic itself. But there are so many other parts involved to get that signal to the HDMI out that it could be any one of something else. Dont spend to much time on just one part. You have to hunt around checking rail voltages. That is why I posted that page in the SM. Just check rails for now. Once I get it to stay on, I will, this update loop is nasty this time |
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tonyb
Junior Member
Posts: 26
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Post by tonyb on Nov 1, 2023 17:20:02 GMT -5
Something new happened..
Sick of the update loop, I did a factory firmware restore. It failed, but the first thing I did was initialize the AVR and it came on with speakers, and the setup menu, then it went to "Update" (not "Please Wait" like I'm used to seeing) mode fast.
It completed 91% and failed.
This is completely new behavior.
I'm going to repeat cycle but connect it to the Internet to see if it will complete
EDIT: Only happened once.
I will have to look at page 61, and just test when it's on and just deal with the update loop. Obviously a fix may be closer than I originally thought.
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tonyb
Junior Member
Posts: 26
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Post by tonyb on Nov 1, 2023 21:09:54 GMT -5
I will give you a little hint. You are assuming that because you have a problem with the GUI on screen that the problem is with the GUI ic itself. But there are so many other parts involved to get that signal to the HDMI out that it could be any one of something else. Dont spend to much time on just one part. You have to hunt around checking rail voltages. That is why I posted that page in the SM. Just check rails for now. Better news. The update finally completed, no longer stuck in an update loop. The way I got this done was running my fingers across the bottom of the board, quite harshly. The menu system also worked enough time for me to enter WiFi info and HEOS info. So mastertech, that means you are right. Loose solder on the bottom of the board. I am a little confused about how to read page 61. Understood that it's the rails but that's where it "breaks" for me. Could you explain a little more, I understand this isn't an electronics course, just some words from you would help. I was also able to complete an HDMI Diagnostic and it failed with H1-12 (DIR) IC202-PCM9211. Hopefully I'll be able to test it from the top of the board but it is only a continuity test and can happen anywhere, correct? If I'm going to take this board off, and most likely am able to fix it, may I ask; what supplies should I get? How fine of a tip do I need? |
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Post by mastertech on Nov 2, 2023 19:15:55 GMT -5
When I suggested that page and to test the rail voltages this was assuming you maybe had lost a voltage powering many components. So you would have to check the outputs of the various voltage regulators that are listed on that page. Now the thing is, at this point if all seems to be working then you will probably have all good voltages so you cannot test anything now. But if you fear the problem may come back then you would have to try flexing that board and see if it acts up and if it does then you could do testing then. I assume this is the digital board you are talking about?
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tonyb
Junior Member
Posts: 26
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Post by tonyb on Nov 2, 2023 21:28:38 GMT -5
When I suggested that page and to test the rail voltages this was assuming you maybe had lost a voltage powering many components. So you would have to check the outputs of the various voltage regulators that are listed on that page. Now the thing is, at this point if all seems to be working then you will probably have all good voltages so you cannot test anything now. But if you fear the problem may come back then you would have to try flexing that board and see if it acts up and if it does then you could do testing then. I assume this is the digital board you are talking about? Yes. I took it all apart to check these points out, and did a little heat and flux on the weak joints. Tried to put it back together and not a damn thing. I have most of the screws back in because I figured something may need a grounding point but no matter what, it won't turn on at all, no red light blinking, not a damn thing. Checked the fuses, everything is fine. I'm almost positive that my solder fixes worked but I have to figure out why it won't turn on. Nothing came close to smoke point and there is 1% chance I blew the board. So close yet so far away. |
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Post by mastertech on Nov 3, 2023 9:28:20 GMT -5
I would suggest to first recheck all the harnesses you had to plug back in on that board. You may have bent over a pin or more inside a connector.
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tonyb
Junior Member
Posts: 26
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Post by tonyb on Nov 3, 2023 12:33:42 GMT -5
I would suggest to first recheck all the harnesses you had to plug back in on that board. You may have bent over a pin or more inside a connector. I did. It was fixable but still won't won't start. I'm taking another stab at it today, reworking the voltage regulator I think could be the issue. Going to get new voltage regulators and transistors. I would figure it should turn on to just give a code but it's not even doing that. |
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tonyb
Junior Member
Posts: 26
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Post by tonyb on Nov 3, 2023 20:44:21 GMT -5
I would suggest to first recheck all the harnesses you had to plug back in on that board. You may have bent over a pin or more inside a connector. I might have a failed voltage regulator, are there any resistors I can put on it to just make sure the board starts? (Temporarily) |
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Post by mastertech on Nov 4, 2023 17:13:45 GMT -5
I would suggest to first recheck all the harnesses you had to plug back in on that board. You may have bent over a pin or more inside a connector. I might have a failed voltage regulator, are there any resistors I can put on it to just make sure the board starts? (Temporarily) No |
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