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Post by Decibel on Mar 27, 2019 14:35:11 GMT -5
Ok the results of measurements:
+9v: In standby +9.0v Power on +9.0v
-9v In standby +0,25v Power on -12,18v
+5VSB_REC In standby +4,96v Power on +4,96v
RC5_RCU In standby +4,97v Power on +4,97v
When push any buttons of wired of wireless remote the voltage of RC5_RCU goes down at 4,43v
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Post by Decibel on Mar 27, 2019 13:20:44 GMT -5
2) Where does built in control connect to the controller? The wired remote, If I'm not wrong is connected to the motherboard. I think that's a link from motherboard and controller.
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Post by Decibel on Mar 27, 2019 13:08:02 GMT -5
Ok, couple quick questions first. 1) Did you verify that the problem only exists on this controller? Remotes work fine with a different controller? 2) Where does built in control connect to the controller? 3) When you say "remote" you mean wireless remote, correct? Just want to make sure translation is correct. 1) yes, if I reinsert the my tray (so my controller) both remotes (built in and wireless) work perfectly. 2) I don't understand this answer 3) yes, ok I will say "wireless" and "wired" for remotes.
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Post by Decibel on Mar 27, 2019 12:30:54 GMT -5
Ok I will solder wires. What's the first point that I can test?
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Post by Decibel on Mar 27, 2019 9:42:31 GMT -5
<iframe width="21.840000000000032" height="3.8799999999999955" style="position: absolute; width: 21.840000000000032px; height: 3.8799999999999955px; z-index: -9999; border-style: none;left: 15px; top: -5px;" id="MoatPxIOPT0_74651321" scrolling="no"></iframe> <iframe width="21.840000000000032" height="3.8799999999999955" style="position: absolute; width: 21.84px; height: 3.88px; z-index: -9999; border-style: none; left: 1034px; top: -5px;" id="MoatPxIOPT0_45234286" scrolling="no"></iframe> <iframe width="21.840000000000032" height="3.8799999999999955" style="position: absolute; width: 21.84px; height: 3.88px; z-index: -9999; border-style: none; left: 15px; top: 134px;" id="MoatPxIOPT0_43778642" scrolling="no"></iframe> <iframe width="21.840000000000032" height="3.8799999999999955" style="position: absolute; width: 21.84px; height: 3.88px; z-index: -9999; border-style: none; left: 1034px; top: 134px;" id="MoatPxIOPT0_83743594" scrolling="no"></iframe> I forgot to report that I've repaired the tv with same intervention in the link above.
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Post by Decibel on Mar 27, 2019 3:49:31 GMT -5
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Post by Decibel on Mar 27, 2019 2:02:45 GMT -5
I can guide you to where to start looking but you have to be willing to test some voltages and you did not seem interested in this the last time. So I have stayed quiet. I didn't have the right tool to take measurements. I bought it specifically. Now I'm ready to take the measurements
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Post by Decibel on Mar 26, 2019 18:28:05 GMT -5
and I would like to ask if have any idea about the remote control... thanks Yes we would to measure the voltages. Where I can apply the stabilized power supply?
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Post by Decibel on Mar 25, 2019 2:56:38 GMT -5
Can you be more specific as to which capacitors? You can not leave it at this response. Substantially I've replicated the modify that dummyload suggest in this thread and that he did at my controller few years ago. I've inserted two caps (100uf) in back of the board. One cap (C121 1uf) was absent and I've inserted it. Finally I've replaced two electrolytic smd caps (C223 and C253 both 47uf) with two standard ones. Now we must to solve the problem of remote and built in control. The first never work, the second bring pairing for only few seconds then forgot it.
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Post by Decibel on Mar 24, 2019 16:50:49 GMT -5
Can you be more specific as to which capacitors? You can not leave it at this response. Obviously tomorrow I will explain all with pictures.
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Post by Decibel on Mar 24, 2019 16:04:59 GMT -5
I hope that fix the issue of wavy lines. I've replaced two capacitors, add other three like my controller. Remain a strange problem of remote and built in control. Remote not work Built in mantain pairing for a few seconds, then stop work.
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Post by Decibel on Mar 24, 2019 12:29:50 GMT -5
In stand by only the +9v for the controller is on ,this voltage is used for +5vp core controller (processor + extra) and +3.3v ic3 convergence generation , remote decoding + exra that's all , did it do that before you put electrolyt caps on to ? If no maybe polarity wrong on one of those caps ? (the cap would come very hot and then make a hissing sound) Stefano, the owner of projector, say that the hiss there was also before replacing caps.
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Post by Decibel on Mar 24, 2019 8:25:59 GMT -5
Domenico, are you sure is not one of the front fans that is generating the noise ? Try to block the fans for a few seconds (or disconnect them from the focus board). It should take some 15 seconds before automatic shutdown, time enough to hear the difference. Hiss is heard when the projector is in standby. So with the fans stopped.
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Post by Decibel on Mar 24, 2019 6:16:48 GMT -5
I forgot to mention that nothing comes out of the tubes now. I don't have the menu on the screen. Press the text button on the remote, youve turned the OSD off. However the hiss certainly coming from convergence/controller tray because I want to remember that I operating with my Cinemax. With original tray (my controller and my other boards) have no hiss. When insert the tray of Stefano the hiss is present.
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Post by Decibel on Mar 24, 2019 4:00:25 GMT -5
I forgot to mention that nothing comes out of the tubes now. I don't have the menu on the screen.
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