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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Aug 2, 2015 3:36:27 GMT -5
I tested the Namco Guncons today via the LIMO-PRO and they were not working properly, when they did register a shot it was nowhere near where the gun was pointed, so the lag is too high.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jul 21, 2015 21:43:10 GMT -5
The only way i can test is to set up the arcade boards and test with a light gun, which i havent had time to do yet.
Id be interested to know though if there are other options that will work, id expect up to 5 lines of lag shouldnt matter too much when the gun can be calibrated.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jul 20, 2015 21:14:05 GMT -5
Cant see an issue. They speed up when it gets hot.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jul 20, 2015 19:06:22 GMT -5
Not that i know of, but will doing this do anything for lag?
The issue is game guns, when the trigger is pulled, the screen flashes white for one frame, which the gun sees, and reports when it sees the white, thus knowing where youre pointing. With a frame of lag, it will assume youre pointing off sceen.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jul 20, 2015 3:58:40 GMT -5
After flashing Cine 9 software onto my 909 SkySkan controller it did indeed slow the fans, no fan errors.
The software dictates the errors. There were none even with the fan boards missing, the CineMAX only has the front tray fan board anyway, there is no extra board in the rear.
The SEOS parts of the software will not change, if my SkySkan is anything to go by, and im sure someone else did a SEOS as well.
The lowering of the max scanrate is really neither here nor there. Who is ever going to push it to 180kHz anyway? Its far more than you need or could effectively use.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jul 20, 2015 3:52:02 GMT -5
Its got to remain very near within a couple lines at worst, any more than 5 or so lines and it is too much lag to work.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jul 19, 2015 4:42:50 GMT -5
Hi all I need to line double the 15.7kHz 240p ( it is indeed a 240p image and not 480i before anyone asks ) output of my video game consoles and arcade boards to 31.5kHz to use these on the Cine 9, the internal LIMO-PRO scaler does this fine, but what I want to know is how much lag there will be if set to line double? Essentially all it looks to be doing is repeating each line a 2nd time, which I would reckon it should be able to do on the fly with no frame lag at all, but I don't know for sure. Every second line looks 100% identical to the line above it on that mode. What I would rather, is if there is some way to retain the exact 240p image on screen, and every 2nd line be black, so the image would then appear as it should, instead of jaggy from the doubling. Im not sure if anything can do this. What I really NEED though, is something that will change 15.7kHz to 31.5kHz with no frame lag at all. Just one frame of lag will prevent me from doing what I want to do. Thanks in advance
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jul 4, 2015 6:42:48 GMT -5
They can also cause failure of a Zener diode somewhere there too, i think its D400, but i cant see the TSB from where i am here.
Thing is, his set runs, just does nothing. But does this mean it is one of those refered to by Barco as "May have trouble starting" or something simular they state in that TSB? Do they mean it will appear to turn on but do very little or nothing? Or do they mean the set wont even switch on and run?
The controller is primarily responsible for turning the set on, assuming no jumpers are set elsewhere to force it on, he states those jumpers are open, meaning the controller is turning on the set. Do we all agree on that?
I have some questions based on a line of thinking around that remote issue... 1: If indeed the main internal remote is not present, will the set run properly or will it not?? I cant test this with my own here at the moment. 2: If the remote was faulty, i.e. Had a short, a stuck button, faulty backlight, etc, what will this make the set do??
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jul 4, 2015 4:18:12 GMT -5
And guess what mine has there in that spot??? Yes same cap Hulio said it is not the cause of the fault, but after replacing the cap, the software recognized the projector and he was able to reprogram the firmware. No im not saying its your cause, but i would like to know all possibly known issues with this capacitor failing, as in what is likely to happen when it goes bad. Yours is a different value to mine, i have a 35v 4.7uF ELNA in there.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jul 4, 2015 4:12:46 GMT -5
I tried also replace cap. No acknowledge. I think that my controller is definitely dead. On what grounds do you base this assumption?
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jul 4, 2015 4:11:38 GMT -5
Have you disconnected the internal remote where it connects to the mainboard as i asked you to try yet??
I cant see where you have reported on that.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jul 3, 2015 20:39:57 GMT -5
So what do you reckon are the possible issues if this capacitor is to go bad???
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jul 3, 2015 20:38:55 GMT -5
Sure, no problem. It was C201 from I/O & Supply section. The controller came from a mil. simulator with a sticker mensioning "defect" on it. Hulio! Here my controller! And guess what mine has there in that spot???
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jul 3, 2015 20:30:25 GMT -5
There is no need to be trying to force on the P/S. It is surely coming on since he has HV and deflection. Im insisting the jumper be removed if present, because im wondering why his power switch is turning the SMPS on with no other input, that isnt really normal. I tried putting that jumper in place on my faulty controller a while back, the SMPS would come on, HV, Deflection, tubes had a raster, but no image, and no OSD until you turned the set on via the remote. Even though it was still in standby, the entire set still looked like it was running. i also want him to unplug that internal remote too.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jul 3, 2015 6:29:33 GMT -5
Is there a jumper on the controller board near the socket labeled as FORCE SMPS ON ?
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