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Post by tokejo on Jan 30, 2014 15:45:10 GMT -5
I'm reading up on the NR807, and it appears that the HDMI board is a common failure. I don't want to get too far ahead of myself, *crossing my fingers*, but if this does fix the unit, would it be advisable to get some copper/aluminum ramsinks and some Arctic Silver adhesive to place on the two BGA's on the HDMI board?
I don't want to take apart the second unit because it's going to be my template for putting the first unit back together. I took some pictures, but there's nothing like having a spare to look at to see how everything connects. I am however, tempted to take a heatgun to the second unit to see if the HDMI board is the only culprit, but I'll hold off on that.
Edit:
It appears there is a service bulletin for the HDMI board that details which caps to replace, although it also needs a daughterboard that Onkyo won't sell to the public. I'll refrain from whipping out my heat gun.
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Post by mastertech on Jan 30, 2014 16:59:33 GMT -5
So your other receiver turns on and switches input but has no sound output no matter what input you use, analog or digital? And it shows no speakers on the front display? And the speakers are turned on?
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Post by tokejo on Jan 30, 2014 17:49:42 GMT -5
That's correct. No sound or video output when I tried hooking up a bluray player via HDMI, nor when I hooked up an AM antenna for the tuner. No speakers show on the front display. Not sure what you mean about the speakers turned on.
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Post by mastertech on Jan 30, 2014 20:04:50 GMT -5
Ok, couple things. Some receivers have a speakers on/off button but i do not see one on this model.
I would not trust the tuner for testing as many receivers the tuner does not always work, lol.
For the quick searching I did on the HDMI board problem I thought it said you still had video.
I would try do a factory reset then study the use manual to make sure there is not a settings problem. I would also check it with a regular analog input for audio audio and video. Analog video is outputted through "monitor out".
If none of this helps then to verify the problem is definitely the HDMI board, I would test it in the working receiver once you have it repaired. We can discuss options if all this fails.
Factory reset is: turn receiver on, press and hold VCR/DVR and ON/STANDBY buttons until "CLEAR" shows on the display. It will then go into standby. It should now be reset.
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Post by tokejo on Jan 30, 2014 20:41:37 GMT -5
I had previously tested it with an ipod, but I'll try it via the analog video.
I factory reset it, and the speaker icons did not appear.
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Post by mastertech on Jan 30, 2014 21:22:51 GMT -5
It probably is that HDMI board then like in the videos. I have only had little time to view any but I would gather a heat gun on those chips may solve the problem. Do you have a heat gun?
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Post by tokejo on Jan 30, 2014 22:23:57 GMT -5
I do have a heat gun.
I've also read a couple of threads describing the replacement of the 100uF capacitors on both sides of the board, but that was the one that mentioned a service bulletin and daughterboard to regulate voltage.
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Post by mastertech on Jan 31, 2014 9:55:17 GMT -5
If you have some links I could take a look.
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Post by tokejo on Jan 31, 2014 10:54:18 GMT -5
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Post by tokejo on Jan 31, 2014 11:11:42 GMT -5
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Post by mastertech on Jan 31, 2014 11:39:54 GMT -5
Anything that is not the same model number is not relevant. I am familiar with the 606 repair and have done them. Same repair does not apply to other models unless in the same family. |
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Post by tokejo on Jan 31, 2014 13:29:15 GMT -5
I will try the 2nd receiver with a host of different sources today. If I still get no audio/video I'll take a heat gun to it briefly and see if that makes a difference. Last resort will be to pull it out entirely and try to reflow the DTS chip. I've got an IR gun at work that I'll bring home with me. Any recommendation as to a temperature to get the chip up to?
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Post by mastertech on Jan 31, 2014 15:07:30 GMT -5
You have to get the chip hot enough to melt the solder underneath, so pretty hot. Before you start to heat it up try to put some flux around the perimeter of the chip so it will hopefully suck it under.
"BUT" be very careful after you start heating it up. make sure the board is laying flat, don't bump the board, don't bump the chip. if that chip even moves a fraction of an inch while that solder is hot it will then be useless. It must not move at all.
heat the back of the board a little first so the board itself is not cold or the flexing will not allow the solder to reconnect. Not real hot but hot as you think so parts under there do not start to fall off, lol.
but don't be afraid to heat up that chip. These chis are a real pain since you don't have any way to verify if what your doing is working or not. Once your done heating it to where you think you want to give it a try, wait for it to cool down before moving or touching it.
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Post by tokejo on Jan 31, 2014 15:59:22 GMT -5
I've reflowed PS3's and Xbox 360's with the heat gun, so I have the technique down. Someone had posted a comment about taking it to ~450F and verifying with IR.
I'll give it a shot in a bit.
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Post by mastertech on Jan 31, 2014 16:11:07 GMT -5
Oh, ok. Good.
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