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Post by tokejo on Jan 31, 2014 16:56:04 GMT -5
Ok, lot's of exciting developments with AVR2.
Hooked up Xbox 360 with composite cables, I got video but no sound. Hooked up Blu-ray player via HDMI, I got video but no sound. Hooked up iPhone via the front analog inputs (AUX), I got no sound.
At least video is working. I didn't not check every hdmi input, but I will do that soon. While the unit was powered on I took a heatgun to the DTS chip just enough to warm it up, no change. I powered off the unit, but kept the iPhone (Pandora) plugged in to the front AUX, <b>I GOT SOUND</b> and the speaker icons are visible.
I only checked one speaker output, but that's good news. I'm letting the unit cool off, and I expect it will go back to being broken. If that happens, I'll pull the HDMI board out of the machine and take a heatgun to the DTS chip to reflow it.
Definitely need to write things down as they happen. A couple of days ago I could have sworn it had no video, but now that I think about it I'm unclear as to what I first saw. If the reflow works I'm going to buy a couple of copper ramsinks and make sure the DTS chip stays cool. I did notice that the internal fan never kicks on, might have to run the heatgun over the temp sensor to see if I can get it to run.
I'm excited to see one of these receivers come to life, if only temporarily. Can't wait until the parts arrive for AVR1 and I can get it back together.
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Post by tokejo on Jan 31, 2014 17:24:55 GMT -5
Upon cooling, no audio, no speaker symbols. Heat gun time.
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Post by tokejo on Jan 31, 2014 17:43:41 GMT -5
Mac, Do you know where I can source JL3201 on the HDMI board? Everything went ok, but I melted that connector a bit. I could just solder directly to the leads but I'd like to be able to disconnect the HDMI board if I need to do any other repairs to the board.
I knew I should have wrapped the board in aluminum foil prior to heating it up, but I got excited and rushed it.
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Post by mastertech on Jan 31, 2014 17:47:42 GMT -5
If you can post a picture of it I can see if I have one on a parts board.
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Post by tokejo on Jan 31, 2014 18:12:13 GMT -5
Now I'm sort of glad I melted that piece, because I discovered something interesting when taking the pictures. One of the HDMI boards has a daughterboard attached to it and appears to have been fixed before, the other one that I just took a heat gun to does not have it. Attachments:
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Post by tokejo on Jan 31, 2014 18:12:51 GMT -5
Here is the daughterboard. It says 3.2Vout, which backs up what I read earlier about it regulating the voltage down to 3.2V. Attachments:
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Post by mastertech on Jan 31, 2014 18:19:51 GMT -5
Now I'm sort of glad I melted that piece, because I discovered something interesting when taking the pictures. One of the HDMI boards has a daughterboard attached to it and appears to have been fixed before, the other one that I just took a heat gun to does not have it. Is this a through hole mount?
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Post by mastertech on Jan 31, 2014 18:20:51 GMT -5
Here is the daughterboard. It says 3.2Vout, which backs up what I read earlier about it regulating the voltage down to 3.2V. Well, backwards engineer that and you can start fixing these HDMI boards, lol.
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Post by tokejo on Jan 31, 2014 18:34:24 GMT -5
Yes, through hole. It's of the type where you push down and it releases the ribbon cable. 5 leads.
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Post by tokejo on Feb 10, 2014 19:34:38 GMT -5
Parts are in, time to get these other parts out.
Q6051= TTC0001QT Q6061= TTA0001QT Q6011= 2SC1740S_S R6101= 0.22ohm, 5w 3 leg R6271= 18ohm, 1/4w R6071= 82ohm, 1/4w R6281= 18ohm, 1/4w
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Post by tokejo on Feb 10, 2014 21:26:39 GMT -5
New parts in, I checked R6271, R6281, R6071 and R6101 and all seem good. Now to put it all back together.
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Post by mastertech on Feb 10, 2014 21:28:49 GMT -5
Did you use thermal compound on the outputs?
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Post by tokejo on Feb 10, 2014 21:35:48 GMT -5
I am about to, that's why I ran upstairs to post (and find it).
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Post by tokejo on Feb 10, 2014 23:34:17 GMT -5
AVR 1 Fixed, although I only checked the Front Right Channel as that was the blown channel.
Next step will be to switch in the known working HDMI board and power up AVR 2. Hopefully it will be working, and I can then swap back in HDMI board 2 and see if I fixed it with the reflow. Would be nice if I could find a daughterboard on Ebay, but a reflow will have to do.
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nashou
Unmoderated Off Topic
Tech in Training.....
Posts: 1,239
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Post by nashou on Feb 10, 2014 23:48:00 GMT -5
AVR 1 Fixed, although I only checked the Front Right Channel as that was the blown channel. Next step will be to switch in the known working HDMI board and power up AVR 2. Hopefully it will be working, and I can then swap back in HDMI board 2 and see if I fixed it with the reflow. Would be nice if I could find a daughterboard on Ebay, but a reflow will have to do. I have gotten pretty good using Eagle PCB design. If you send me the schematics and the board size I may be able to reproduce one for you. the re flowing of my SR707 HDMI DTS chip worked great!!! I used 291c heat setting for a couple minutes. Nashou
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